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Routes in Right Wing Wall

Herbarium T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Lost World T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Right Wing T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Suffocation T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
WWC Memorial Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Xanadu T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Yucca Flats T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Zambezi Hatchet Head T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zumwot Brittle T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: FA: Mike Heintz, John Sahi, 1974
Page Views: 3,005 total, 26/month
Shared By: T Roper on Apr 3, 2008 with updates
Admins: Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


54 Opinions

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Description

One of the best 5.8 pitches around CT. About 20 feet right of the "right wing" climb up and through a small roof. The opening moves are easier if you are taller, and protect with small gear. Follow the broken crack to the summit, it protects well after a spicy start.

Location

right end of the right wing wall

no anchors

Protection

regular rack, even used the #4 camalot. the runout start can be avoided by climbing into it from the left under the roof.

Photos

steverett
San Diego, CA
  5.8
steverett   San Diego, CA
  5.8
Used to be 5.7, but since the block under the overhang broke off, I'd say it's now 5.8. Apr 1, 2016
Nic the brit
  5.8
Nic the brit  
  5.8
Excellent four star route. Brilliant Jul 23, 2014
micah richard
Litchfield, Connecticut
micah richard   Litchfield, Connecticut
The first bomber gear is 15 or so feet above the ground, Right below overhang in horizontal crack. Plan on cratering hard if you blow the relatively easy move below the roof. Assuming you lead this straight up as in the above photo. Aug 22, 2013
Zambesi Hatchett Head is a fabulous climb with varied moves. I have climbed it dozens of times. The opening moves go easily with good footwork. I am very short and have no trouble with reach on this climb. It traditionally has been rated 5.7, and that is a fair grade.

Tip toe up the little ramp, then set a cam under the overhang. You can get two in if you are nervous. Pull the overhang, and climb up the crack. Small tri-cams are bomber in this crack. There is a short run-out face section on very positive edges. Set a piece and step through the next small overhang. Now you have a fabulous crack that eats gear. At the top of the crack, set a small nut and go for the top on inceasingly easier moves. Dec 8, 2009
Eli Kramer
Saratoga Springs, NY
  5.8
Eli Kramer   Saratoga Springs, NY
  5.8
Top notch 5.8 with consistent technical moves for the first 3/4 of its length. Oct 16, 2009