Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: J. Reppy, G. Young, F. Carey 1958
Page Views: 6,835 total · 44/month
Shared By: John Peterson on Feb 23, 2006
Admins: Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


110 Opinions

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Description

BEWARE OF COPPERHEAD AT TOP OF CLIMB

Near the right end of the face is a huge block forming a roof about 50' up. Broadway goes up the crack to the right edge of the block.

This is one of the best routes on the cliff - continuous 5.7 - 5.8 climbing with good pro if you know how to place it.

The block that marks the roof is the Skull and Bones block - named after the secret society at nearby Yale University.

Protection

Mostly medium and small wires and cams. This route has seen a number of spectacular leader falls so place pro when you can.
Marc H
Longmont, CO
5.7+ PG13
Marc H   Longmont, CO
5.7+ PG13
IMO, the crux is higher than the author indicated. There's also a PG-13 section near the 1/3 or 1/2-way mark of this route. Feb 16, 2008
John Peterson
  5.8
John Peterson  
  5.8
This route is consistant enough that there are plenty of cruxes to go around- the higher one is about the same as the one below the roof but I find it easier to protect so I'm more relaxed. But I'll definitely argue about the PG-13 thing. There's gear just about everywhere on this route if you're clever enough to find it and have the right stuff on your rack. Traprock is incredibly featured and with patience you can get decent gear in all sorts of unlikely places. But often this is an issue of having just the right RP or tiny cam.

This particular route has been the scene of many spectacular falls by climbers unfamiliar with traprock. Many years ago, a visiting "5.10 is just a warmup" climber proceeded to charge up this route to a point just below the roof placing only a single micro cam along the way - suddenly he was flying off and missed cratering by just a few feet. Fortunately that one tiny cam turned out to be OK. On his second effort, he managed to find a lot of gear he had overlooked on the first attempt and had something in about every 3 feet through the crux section.

The real problem is that it's so tiring to hang and place the gear that doing this route with a PG rating makes it a lot harder than at a PG-13 or R rating. Feb 17, 2008
CODJOL  
The crux on this one can be a little tricky, but it's mostly just a "getting over your nerves" move. It is just before the roof of Skull and bones, as I remember, the final move. The roof is a little high and you're on an undercling hold. Just trust the hold and power up to the roof - it's a solid hold up there. After the crux... enjoy the view on top of Skull and Bones - it's pretty much a staircase from there. Nov 11, 2008
Eric G.
Saratoga Springs, NY
Eric G.   Saratoga Springs, NY
I thought the pro was awful up to the 1/3 point. You're putting a lot of faith in a small nut in crappy traprock. PG-13. Jul 8, 2012
Alex Jacques
Burlington, CT
Alex Jacques   Burlington, CT
People who complain of nowhere to put gear aren't looking hard enough. This climb eats it the whole way. Apr 27, 2013
CTdave
Victor, Id.
  5.7
CTdave   Victor, Id.
  5.7
I dont know about PG-13. PG unless you have the right stuff on your rack which of course I didn't. G if you've got some smaller cams or maybe tricams Aug 15, 2013
Kurtz
Fort Collins, CO
 
Kurtz   Fort Collins, CO
 
There's plenty o' pro on the bottom of this route. Look at this . Eleven pieces BELOW the block. Granted they're mostly small nuts and cams, but all good. Jun 1, 2014
Alex Jacques
Burlington, CT
Alex Jacques   Burlington, CT
Snake is gone - but who knows where it went! It could be anywhere... it could be, in your shoe. Jul 19, 2015
FourT6and2 ...
San Francisco, CA
FourT6and2 ...   San Francisco, CA
Climbed this route yesterday. Easily the most fun I've had climbing so far. But I've only been at it for about 6 months. Lots of good hand and foot holds. Hardest part for me was right before getting to the ledge toward the top where you can rest for a second. After that, not a problem. Route was a blast; I'd do it a few times in an outing for a great time. Aug 28, 2015
James F King
Avon, CT
James F King   Avon, CT
The gear may be all there at that move above the undercling on the loose flake, but many people (including me) find it sketchy. Once you reach the corner with the Skull and Bones block the gear is bomber. Sep 17, 2016
Nick W
Orford, NH
Nick W   Orford, NH
There are lots of good nut placements on the bottom half of this route (i.e. NOT PG-13) which keep the climbing reasonable for the experienced leader. Maybe bring some extra small to medium nuts, and make sure you put long slings on them to avoid zipping. The gear gets better as you get higher, and the climbing gets harder.

I would say this is not a good lead for the new 5.8 leader since the gear placements, though good, are more spaced and technical on the lower half of the climb, therefore increasing the risk of a ground fall for the inexperienced leader. Oct 28, 2016
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.8-
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
  5.8-
Royal Robbins passed away about a week ago. The only time I met him (wish I could say "Climbed with him.") was on a trip (I think it was a CT-AMC) led by then-less notorious Ken Nichols. I believe that This would have been before 1986 (when I moved from NJ to CT), probably it was the late '70's or early 80's. Royal climbed YMC while I was on Broadway, right "next door". I think Ken also invited Fritz Wiessner, although I don't remember his being at the "burgers and beer" later that night.

Nevertheless, Royal is figuring out the OH move in the corner on YMC and I'm about at his level on Broadway, when Fritz walks by, looks up at Royal and says: "mmm..Good Route, poor route finding" (Meaning, I've always supposed, if you wanted to get up the cliff, Broadway was the easier route.) Mar 22, 2017
Morgan Patterson   CT  
 
Thats a great lil story Bob! Must have been a great time to have figures like that still showing up to climb in CT. Oct 11, 2017