Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Fritz Wiessner, Roger and Hassler Whitney, 1934
Page Views: 7,302 total · 45/month
Shared By: John Peterson on Feb 26, 2006
Admins: Morgan Patterson

You & This Route

61 Opinions

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This is the corner above the right side of Wiessner slab. Either climb the slab, set your belay, and contemplate leading this climb in 1934 with ancient gear or start the corner from the ground on the inside of the chimney. By starting in the chimney(5.6+) it is easy to do in one pitch.

This is a stiff but protectable lead that takes a variety of gear. You can protect just about anywhere if you can hang in there. I've seen some serious falls on this when the leader decided to just go for it.

Hassler Whitney is famous for the Whitney-Gilman ridge on Cannon, put up earlier in 1929.


Standard traprock rack. Wires, some cams.


Michael Goodhue
Michael Goodhue   Colorado
Yes, climb the hole. It's rather spelunk-ish. Apr 20, 2009
Eric G.
Saratoga Springs, NY
Eric G.   Saratoga Springs, NY
crux pro is outstanding. Jul 8, 2012
Fort Collins, CO
Kurtz   Fort Collins, CO
In Summer/Fall start in the cave/chimney! The change from enclosure to exposure adds to the fun.

In the Spring, there's usually an occupied bird's nest right on the back side of the slab near the opening. Climb the slab then. Nov 11, 2013
Alex Jacques
Burlington, CT
Alex Jacques   Burlington, CT
So this is 5.8 and Carey's is 5,7+ huh... Apr 20, 2015
Nick W
Orford, NH
Nick W   Orford, NH
Looks like you need wide gear from the ground, but it actually tapers down to finger size. Don't need anything larger than a #2; bring small to medium sized cams instead of the big stuff. Nov 7, 2016