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Routes in Main Cliff

A Guide to Ragged (1964) T,TR 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Aid Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ancient Way T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Angle of the Dangle TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Animal Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ashtray TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X
Bald Face Hornet T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Birdman TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Black Orchid TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bombay T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bombay Direct T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Broadway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bushy Groove T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cage, The T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Carey Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Caroline TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cemetary Vault T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chopper flakes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Crag Rat TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Crisis T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Cutting Edge T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Cygnus X-1 TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Deception T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Crux T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Vision TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Duck Soup TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Easy Rider TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
End Run T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Eternity TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Faceout T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fall Of The House Of Monticello, The TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
For Madmen Only T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Golden Age TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Green Gutter T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hangnail T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Hangover TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hemlock Groove T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hot Rocks T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Hurricane Gloria T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Jam Corner T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Juniper Wall T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Knight's Gambit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Knight's Move T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Kor Crack T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Lavaredo Corner T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Left Edge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Leftover T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Main Street T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Marlinspike T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
May's Way T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
NCS Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Netherlands TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
North End T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
North by North West T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Nux Vomica TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Obsession T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Out Of Orbit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Owl Perch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Poison and Passion TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Pork Barrel Project T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Ragged Edge TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Right Edge T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Sandbag TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Side Entry T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sisu T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Skull and Bones T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Subline T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sunday Bulge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Swan Song TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sweat Slot T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Terminal Velocity T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tower Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trojan Horse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Un Petit Peu TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unconquerable Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Vajolet Corner T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vanishing Point T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Vector T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Visions TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Visitor's Reception Center TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
War Eagle T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Wet Wall T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wetwall Wetlock Variation T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Wiessner Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wiessner Slab T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Wishbone T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
YMC Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Fritz Wiessner, Roger and Hassler Whitney, 1934
Page Views: 6,633 total, 46/month
Shared By: John Peterson on Feb 26, 2006
Admins: Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


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Description

This is the corner above the right side of Wiessner slab. Either climb the slab, set your belay, and contemplate leading this climb in 1934 with ancient gear or start the corner from the ground on the inside of the chimney. By starting in the chimney(5.6+) it is easy to do in one pitch.

This is a stiff but protectable lead that takes a variety of gear. You can protect just about anywhere if you can hang in there. I've seen some serious falls on this when the leader decided to just go for it.

Hassler Whitney is famous for the Whitney-Gilman ridge on Cannon, put up earlier in 1929.

Protection

Standard traprock rack. Wires, some cams.
Nick Weinberg
Lyme, NH
Nick Weinberg   Lyme, NH
Looks like you need wide gear from the ground, but it actually tapers down to finger size. Don't need anything larger than a #2; bring small to medium sized cams instead of the big stuff. Nov 7, 2016
Alex Jacques
Burlington, CT
Alex Jacques   Burlington, CT
So this is 5.8 and Carey's is 5,7+ huh... Apr 20, 2015
Kurtz  
In Summer/Fall start in the cave/chimney! The change from enclosure to exposure adds to the fun.

In the Spring, there's usually an occupied bird's nest right on the back side of the slab near the opening. Climb the slab then. Nov 11, 2013
Eric G.
Saratoga Springs, NY
Eric G.   Saratoga Springs, NY
crux pro is outstanding. Jul 8, 2012
Goodhue
Boulder, CO
  5.8
Goodhue   Boulder, CO
  5.8
Yes, climb the hole. It's rather spelunk-ish. Apr 20, 2009