Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Fritz Wiessner, Roger Whitney, Charles Houston
Page Views: 2,886 total · 18/month
Shared By: John Peterson on Mar 11, 2006
Admins: Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


31 Opinions

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Description

Start this route on some blocks to the right of the crack system and traverse into the easy ground. Some loose rock in the upper part of the climb. Not as nice as Knight's Move or Ancient Way.

Location

After passing Wiessner Slab, the trail works up past Vector and then turns a corner. This is Bushy Groove. Past this is another obvious crack system - Wishbone. Then look for the stacked blocks and obvious easier crack system that mark Main Street.

Protection

Light traprock rack.

Photos

Bill West
Sunnyvale, CA
  5.4
Bill West   Sunnyvale, CA
  5.4
The clean, fun chimney at the top is your reward for an otherwise humdrum climb. Aug 4, 2013
Dawn Jacob
  5.4
Dawn Jacob  
  5.4
For flavor, add the harder (but very short), direct crack start on the left of the slab at the base. Crack + exposed juggy ladder + chimney = fun. As of 8/13, loose rock at the top was not a significant issue. Aug 5, 2013
James F King
Avon, CT
James F King   Avon, CT
The chimney at the top is full of rubble. It is probably better to chimney straight up immediately after going behind the flake rather than trying to scramble higher through the choss pile. May 15, 2016
Jay Stanley
Little Rock, AR
 
Jay Stanley   Little Rock, AR
 
the direct start makes the route worthwhile. the mantle before the chimney is full of loose rock. Dec 2, 2017