Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Dennis Merritt, Sam Streibert, 1971
Page Views: 3,077 total · 20/month
Shared By: John Peterson on Mar 10, 2006
Admins: Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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Description

An obvious crack system at the right side of the smooth wall at the left end of the cliff. Climb to a ledge and then descend right. Often TRed but leadable.

Location

Just right of Animal Crack, left of a broken area.

Protection

Standard traprock rack

Photos

. Mobes
MDI
  5.10d PG13
. Mobes   MDI
  5.10d PG13
not really any gear to be had after the crux. could use a pin or a bolt for the finish. Jul 3, 2008
Michael Goodhue
Colorado
  5.10
Michael Goodhue   Colorado
  5.10
Had no problems with gear. Dropped big nut behind the jug after the crux. Small cam after that. Nov 10, 2008
. Mobes
MDI
  5.10d PG13
. Mobes   MDI
  5.10d PG13
we must not be talking the same route Apr 22, 2009
gear the whole way, if you have small enough pieces. May 31, 2009
Paul Rezucha
Alameda
Paul Rezucha   Alameda
I climbed here years ago after college. I led a route in the middle of the face on the North End. I remember climbing up about 15-20' to a small horizontal crack and placed one or two small stoppers. The remaining face to the top had no gear and was quite thin. Anyone know what this route is? I would think it's 5.9 or so. I had two terribly sprained thumbs and couldn't use them at all. Difficult face climbing as I always wrap my thumbs around and on top of index fingers when crimping.

A local hardman back then commented when I topped out that it was a recent pretty bold new route. Who was that guy? Nichols??? A well known hard climber in CT... This had to be back in '81 or so. A friend took a whipper from almost the top and nearly hit the ground, a good 25' or so. How bad is my memory? What is the height of this North End face? Thanks! Jul 12, 2009
Devin Krevetski
Northfield, VT
  5.10a
Devin Krevetski   Northfield, VT
  5.10a
knowing the beta definitely make this climb easier, fairly well protected. Sep 16, 2010
Morgan Patterson   CT  
The middle of the North end has a 5.13/14 proj along a very thin seam and water streak. Paul - I think you were to the right of middle on a climb that's now a 5.10/11 i think called the cage or something. . . Nov 17, 2011