Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Harold May
Page Views: 1,963 total · 12/month
Shared By: John Peterson on Mar 11, 2006
Admins: Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


26 Opinions

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Description

This is the easiest route up the face of Ragged. It is usually done in two pitches.

P1: Climb the crack to the top of the slab. Watch for loose rocks on the belay ledge. This an excellent place to take beginners and teach leading. With care, you can downclimb off the left edge of this ledge to the cave behind the slab.

P2: Climb the obvious corner above the slab (steep!) to the top.

Location

Past Unconquerable Crack, the trail drops down below some large lower-angle slabs. This is the obvious crack in the slab immediately left of Unconquerable.

Protection

Medium / Large nuts.

Photos

Simon L
Hartford, CT
  5.4
Simon L   Hartford, CT
  5.4
Pretty straight forward route to practice lead on. Doesnt seem like it is climbed too often as quite a bit of grass etc growing on it. Not much pro on P2, small cams go well on the lower crux part of P2. As of Oct 2012 there is a tree half way up you can sling followed by a bomber rock column, so take a couple of extra single length runners. Oct 6, 2012
CTdave
Victor, Id.
 
CTdave   Victor, Id.
 
not sure I'd call that column bomber. I would'nt want to take a lead fall on it. Aug 15, 2013
That little rock column after the tree on P2 . . . unequivocally NOT bomber. I wouldn't touch it let alone sling it.

Definitely a nice two pitch climb for new leaders, HOWEVER . . . While the first pitch and the first half of the second pitch have great protection, for new leaders still developing that eye for good pro (like myself) one long glance up the second half of P2 which is the fairly wide corner crack above the tree (which you have slung, right?) may leave you scratching your helmet and wondering where the heck the pro goes. While the climbing in this section may be straight forward 5.4, the pro certainly is sparse if not absent altogether. Be prepared to run this section out (Hats off to ya Victor) OR, don't worry, instead you can take the escape route from the tree ledge via the much more easily protected ramp of least resistance to the right. Jun 27, 2017
Ska Ggs
NorthEast Stuck
 
Ska Ggs   NorthEast Stuck
 
Definitely wouldn't sling that rock column either, even though its tempting cause the pro looked like a puzzle. I stuck a .1 mental piece in a random crack and just ran out the top. Mar 31, 2018