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Routes in Main Cliff
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A Guide to Ragged (1964) T,TR 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c |
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Aid Crack T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Ancient Way T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Angle of the Dangle TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Animal Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ashtray TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X |
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Bald Face Hornet T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X |
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Birdman TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Black Orchid TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Bombay T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bombay Direct T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Broadway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bushy Groove T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cage, The T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Carey Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Caroline TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cave Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Cemetary Vault T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cenotaph Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Chopper flakes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Crag Rat TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Crisis T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X |
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Cutting Edge T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Cygnus X-1 TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Deception T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Double Crux T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Double Vision TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Duck Soup TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Easy Rider TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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End Run T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Eternity TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Faceout T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fall Of The House Of Monticello, The TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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For Madmen Only T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R |
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Frostbite Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Golden Age TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Green Gutter T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Hangnail T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X |
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Hangover TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hemlock Groove T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Hot Rocks T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Hurricane Gloria T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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Jam Corner T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Juniper Wall T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Knight's Gambit T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Knight's Move T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Kor Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lavaredo Corner T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Left Edge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Leftover T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Main Street T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Marlinspike T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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May's Way T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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NCS Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Netherlands TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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No Parking T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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North by North West T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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North End T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Nux Vomica TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Obsession T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X |
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Out Of Orbit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Owl Perch T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Poison and Passion TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Pork Barrel Project T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Prince, The T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R |
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Ragged Edge TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Right Edge T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Sandbag TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Side Entry T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sisu T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Skull and Bones T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Slingshot T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a V1 5 |
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Southside T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Subline T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Sunday Bulge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Suspense T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Swan Song TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Sweat Slot T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Taproot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X |
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Terminal Velocity T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Tower Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Trojan Horse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Un Petit Peu TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Unconquerable Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Vajolet Corner T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Vanishing Point T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Vector T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Visions TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Visitor's Reception Center TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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VPM Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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War Eagle T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Wet Wall T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Wetwall Wetlock Variation T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Wiessner Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Wiessner Slab T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Wishbone T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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YMC Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 7 pitches |
| FA: | Henry Barber, Sam Streibert (August 1973) |
| Page Views: | 918 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Morgan Patterson on Jan 24, 2013 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson |
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Description
This route traverses the Main Cliff, Left to right, and was the first of it's kind in central CT.
Pitch 1: Starting on the North End on the End Ramp's left side, follow the ramp to the west face. Climb several feet down Taurus to a ledge. Continue traversing right around the arete and then climb onto a block.
Pitch 2: Climb down off the block to another ledge, continue right around a corner eventually to Owl's Perch. From there climb down again and continue traversing under Easy Rider's overhang and out to Cemetery corner.
Pitch 3: Continue down and right to the Neanderthal Ledge then traverse to the Marlinspike crack. Above you should be a horizontal which will give you access to Double Crux crack where you can gain a large block. Continue traversing until you can climb down into the Ancient Way corner, then continue sideways to the Sunday Bulge ledge.
Pitch 4: From the Sunday Bulge ledge continue traversing to May's Way Ledge. From this ledge continue traversing right to get to Unconquerable Crack. From the crack climb up to a ledge that will bring you to the Bombay Corner. Continue traversing into Main Street and then follow an traversing line just below the top of the cliff to Wishbone. From Wishbone, you will need to down climb to gain access to Kor Crack and the rest ledge.
Pitch 5: From here continue right traversing towards Foobah's ledge. Work down and right through Suspense ramp to the Bushy Groove corner. From here make a move around the corner to the upper Juniper Wall ledge. Continue down climbing to the lower ledge which will give you access to Vector corner. From here continue climbing right using a series of ledges to the Side Entry corner. From here work down and right to Vajolet and onto the Wiessner Slab. From here move to the top right of the slab.
Pitch 6: Continue traversing right at the top of the slab to a ledge below Hemlock Groove.
Pitch 7: Climb down Hemlock Corner until you can traverse right just under the Skull and Bones block to the large ledge in the middle of Carey's Corner. Finish up Carey's Corner.
Source: Hooked on Traprock, Ken Nichols
Pitch 1: Starting on the North End on the End Ramp's left side, follow the ramp to the west face. Climb several feet down Taurus to a ledge. Continue traversing right around the arete and then climb onto a block.
Pitch 2: Climb down off the block to another ledge, continue right around a corner eventually to Owl's Perch. From there climb down again and continue traversing under Easy Rider's overhang and out to Cemetery corner.
Pitch 3: Continue down and right to the Neanderthal Ledge then traverse to the Marlinspike crack. Above you should be a horizontal which will give you access to Double Crux crack where you can gain a large block. Continue traversing until you can climb down into the Ancient Way corner, then continue sideways to the Sunday Bulge ledge.
Pitch 4: From the Sunday Bulge ledge continue traversing to May's Way Ledge. From this ledge continue traversing right to get to Unconquerable Crack. From the crack climb up to a ledge that will bring you to the Bombay Corner. Continue traversing into Main Street and then follow an traversing line just below the top of the cliff to Wishbone. From Wishbone, you will need to down climb to gain access to Kor Crack and the rest ledge.
Pitch 5: From here continue right traversing towards Foobah's ledge. Work down and right through Suspense ramp to the Bushy Groove corner. From here make a move around the corner to the upper Juniper Wall ledge. Continue down climbing to the lower ledge which will give you access to Vector corner. From here continue climbing right using a series of ledges to the Side Entry corner. From here work down and right to Vajolet and onto the Wiessner Slab. From here move to the top right of the slab.
Pitch 6: Continue traversing right at the top of the slab to a ledge below Hemlock Groove.
Pitch 7: Climb down Hemlock Corner until you can traverse right just under the Skull and Bones block to the large ledge in the middle of Carey's Corner. Finish up Carey's Corner.
Source: Hooked on Traprock, Ken Nichols
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