Type: Trad, 7 pitches
FA: Henry Barber, Sam Streibert (August 1973)
Page Views: 137 total · 2/month
Shared By: Morgan Patterson on Jan 24, 2013
Admins: Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


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Description

This route traverses the Main Cliff, Left to right, and was the first of it's kind in central CT.

Pitch 1: Starting on the North End on the End Ramp's left side, follow the ramp to the west face. Climb several feet down Taurus to a ledge. Continue traversing right around the arete and then climb onto a block.

Pitch 2: Climb down off the block to another ledge, continue right around a corner eventually to Owl's Perch. From there climb down again and continue traversing under Easy Rider's overhang and out to Cemetery corner.

Pitch 3: Continue down and right to the Neanderthal Ledge then traverse to the Marlinspike crack. Above you should be a horizontal which will give you access to Double Crux crack where you can gain a large block. Continue traversing until you can climb down into the Ancient Way corner, then continue sideways to the Sunday Bulge ledge.

Pitch 4: From the Sunday Bulge ledge continue traversing to May's Way Ledge. From this ledge continue traversing right to get to Unconquerable Crack. From the crack climb up to a ledge that will bring you to the Bombay Corner. Continue traversing into Main Street and then follow an traversing line just below the top of the cliff to Wishbone. From Wishbone, you will need to down climb to gain access to Kor Crack and the rest ledge.

Pitch 5: From here continue right traversing towards Foobah's ledge. Work down and right through Suspense ramp to the Bushy Groove corner. From here make a move around the corner to the upper Juniper Wall ledge. Continue down climbing to the lower ledge which will give you access to Vector corner. From here continue climbing right using a series of ledges to the Side Entry corner. From here work down and right to Vajolet and onto the Wiessner Slab. From here move to the top right of the slab.

Pitch 6: Continue traversing right at the top of the slab to a ledge below Hemlock Groove.

Pitch 7: Climb down Hemlock Corner until you can traverse right just under the Skull and Bones block to the large ledge in the middle of Carey's Corner. Finish up Carey's Corner.

Source: Hooked on Traprock, Ken Nichols

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