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Routes in Lower Animal World

Aardvark T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Animal Riots Activist S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Animation S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Automatic Choke T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Beast Food Left S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Beast Food Right S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blockhead S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cannabis Sportiva T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cold Snap T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crack Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Days of Future Passed aka Our Future Has Passed S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dihedral T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Familiar Strangers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Feeding The Beast (aka Beast Food) T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Free Willie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Geritol Generation T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Gull Whackers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Is It Ready Yet...Moe S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Joint Venture S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Laurel & Hardy Meet Abbott & Costello S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lazy Day S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lovely to See You T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Melancholy Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nice To Be Here S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Old Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Piles of Trials S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Reversal Roof S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c V7 7A+
Threshold Of A Dream S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Triple Play T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tuesday Afternoon S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unfamiliar Strangers S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
We Don't Do Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: Dan Hare and Kent Lugbill, June 1980
Page Views: 1,490 total · 9/month
Shared By: Tony B on May 29, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

Full disclosure: I backed off from the lead and opted to TR the dirty crux, which promptly spit me off. After brushing it, I was able to do the moves, but it was still very insecure due to the flakes and lichen. The route is little-traveled and is ok for moves and position, but it really still needs a good wipe-down. I did not have a brush with me when I did it, so it still needs one. The moves and position are cool enough to merit a few stars, but the dirt and loose crystals take them away: 1 star for now, 2 or more if it cleans up.

Just right of Animal Riots Activist and just beyond the neighboring 12b, there is a RP crack that goes up past some intermittent flakes and cracks though an overhang to reach the top of the left side of that arete. This is around left from Cannabis Sportiva and Joint Venture.

Climb up thin, moderate cracks, and start plunking in the brass steel and other tiny wires. Reach up to some horizontal flakes, and get established and plug in a nest of them just before the climbing gets steep. Cast off into steep land on a pumpy pinch and a good finger lock. Place a good TCU out of the finger lock and crack the crux (easier for fatter fingers, rattly for smaller) then place another cam over head and pull over the top of the route.

Place a directional and walk left or right to some sport anchors. A TR could be rigged if so desired, with a creative directional. You'd can climb the 12a or 12b neighboring sport route to get up to that ledge, neither of which seem harder than this climb... or you can climb one of the easy crack systems around to the right to reach the same ledge.

Protection

Several nests of HB anchors or RPs, a few other nuts and a 0.75" and 2" cam. Place enough that you are confident to fall on the thin stuff - it is likely to happen. Some of the gear is pumpy to place.

Photos

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Greg Hand
Golden, CO
  5.11c R
Greg Hand   Golden, CO
  5.11c R
About a month ago I put in a bolted anchor on this route and cleaned it, not knowing it had been done before. The anchor is easily reachable by lowering/rappelling from the Cannabis Sportiva anchors. In talking with Kent, it was an impressive lead by Dan Hare without cams. I think the climbing is excellent and should now see more traffic. A lead of this route would be serious as Tony has stated. Nov 9, 2006
Brady Robinson
Boulder, CO
Brady Robinson   Boulder, CO
I gave this route a go yesterday. The gear was heads up until the pod at mid-height, but the climbing up to that point isn’t too bad. The fractured hold in the crack didn’t inspire confidence, however. The crack is just left of the arête – at the crux I reached around to the right instead of jamming the off-fingers crack and found enough of an edge to get through it. It would be harder if you stayed in the crack, but a little contrived in my opinion. Good route. Jul 19, 2009
For wusses like me, it's convenient to TR this route from the anchors on Cannabis Sportiva. Short but fun. Mar 15, 2015

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