Type: Trad, 95 ft
FA: George Bracksieck & Cathy Mallow, 1980? Stettner? Ellingwood? Ormes?
Page Views: 2,493 total · 17/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Nov 17, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


17 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

Well, you could call this Older Dihedral...but it isn't in Rossiter's nor either of the more recent Rolofson's guides, so what the 'eck? In the middle of the lower Animal World cliff is a large, right-facing dihedral capped with a chimney. That's the line. This is temporarily named for its easy acceptance of those British hexes...don't be offended if it is your route.

Head up the obvious corner with some slippery feet to start. Of course, you will not only be prepared for gulls but, here in the Front Range, also pigeons and bats. About 40 feet up, you can choose to either continue up the chimney (less appealing) or angle right along a crack (best bit) to the 8th bolt of Jaycenne's Dance aka Animation. Continue to its top. Rap.

Note, there are still some loose flakes on the route. We didn't want to clean it with dogs and ladies below.

Location

This lies between Joint Venture and Jaycenne's Dance aka Animation. It starts up and...at least for this writeup...connects with Jaycenne's Dance aka Animation at its 8th bolt.

Protection

Single set of cams to #3.5 Camalot with a few larger, gull whackers, 4 QDs.

Photos

percious
Bear Creek, CO
  5.6
percious   Bear Creek, CO
  5.6
The crack was full of bird crap. Bushes at the top of the climb are annoying. Lots of loose blocks. Fun to use my hexcentrics, otherwise a bore. Apr 18, 2008
I agree that this climb is of poor quality. Before bolts (June 19, 1980, to be exact), I led Cathy Mallow up this dihedral/gully. (Does this put me in the pantheon containing the likes of the Stettners, Ellingwood, or Ormes?) I didn't report our ascent because someone could have climbed it before we did, and I didn't report anything in those days. Instead, I kept a journal and occasionally took photos. Jan 3, 2012
Jon Oulton
Boulder, CO
 
Jon Oulton   Boulder, CO
 
Got about 1/2 of the way up this route last Sunday and ended up downclimbing because of all the loose blocks. There are more than a few toaster-sized blocks that will be easily knocked loose if pulled on or used as a foot-hold.

It would be irresponsible to do this route if there are other parties on the ground. Make sure your belayer is attentive and has a helmet on. Aug 15, 2017
Jason Haas
G1 Climbing + Fitness
  5.7
Jason Haas   G1 Climbing + Fitness
  5.7
I soloed this route yesterday and did not find hardly any loose blocks on it at all. Near the top there was a breadloaf-sized loose block that was sitting on a ledge that was easily avoidable. I didn't throw it off, because I was afraid it'd go to the road. There was some blocks that looked loose at the very top, but I tested all the ones I used thoroughly as I was soloing, and none of them moved. Also doing the route in late fall/early winter was good, because all the plants lost their leaves and were easier to navigate around. Overall I liked the route. Nov 12, 2017
Andy Renz
Jackson, WY
Andy Renz   Jackson, WY
May have left a La Sportiva Katana Lace Up at the bottom of Animation....

Give me a call at 3077304933 or email andyrenz5@gmail.com (might not be in immediate phone service) if you find it. You're the best! Nov 15, 2017
L Kap
Boulder, CO
 
L Kap   Boulder, CO
 
I read the comments on this climb, which looks fun from the ground. Earlier comments said there were lots of loose blocks, and a later comment said no loose blocks, so I assumed it had been cleaned. Nope. The rock is so rotten, the biggest challenge on this climb is deciding what features you can trust. Also, the cracks are often flaring toward the back and like to gobble gear, the bushes are annoying, and it shares a bolted anchor with the most popular moderate sport climb at the crag. Do yourself a favor and climb Old Dihedral instead. Aug 27, 2018