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Routes in Lower Animal World

Aardvark T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Animal Riots Activist S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Animation S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Automatic Choke T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Beast Food Left S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Beast Food Right S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blockhead S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cannabis Sportiva T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cold Snap T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crack Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Days of Future Passed aka Our Future Has Passed S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dihedral T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Familiar Strangers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Feeding The Beast (aka Beast Food) T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Free Willie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Geritol Generation T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Gull Whackers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Is It Ready Yet...Moe S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Joint Venture S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Laurel & Hardy Meet Abbott & Costello S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lazy Day S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lovely to See You T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Melancholy Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nice To Be Here S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Old Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Piles of Trials S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Reversal Roof S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c V7 7A+
Threshold Of A Dream S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Triple Play T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tuesday Afternoon S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unfamiliar Strangers S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
We Don't Do Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 95 ft
FA: George Bracksieck & Cathy Mallow, 1980? Stettner? Ellingwood? Ormes?
Page Views: 2,414 total · 17/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Nov 17, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Well, you could call this Older Dihedral...but it isn't in Rossiter's nor either of the more recent Rolofson's guides, so what the 'eck? In the middle of the lower Animal World cliff is a large, right-facing dihedral capped with a chimney. That's the line. This is temporarily named for its easy acceptance of those British hexes...don't be offended if it is your route.

Head up the obvious corner with some slippery feet to start. Of course, you will not only be prepared for gulls but, here in the Front Range, also pigeons and bats. About 40 feet up, you can choose to either continue up the chimney (less appealing) or angle right along a crack (best bit) to the 8th bolt of Jaycenne's Dance aka Animation. Continue to its top. Rap.

Note, there are still some loose flakes on the route. We didn't want to clean it with dogs and ladies below.

Location [Suggest Change]

This lies between Joint Venture and Jaycenne's Dance aka Animation. It starts up and...at least for this writeup...connects with Jaycenne's Dance aka Animation at its 8th bolt.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Single set of cams to #3.5 Camalot with a few larger, gull whackers, 4 QDs.

Photos

percious
Bear Creek, CO
  5.6
percious   Bear Creek, CO
  5.6
The crack was full of bird crap. Bushes at the top of the climb are annoying. Lots of loose blocks. Fun to use my hexcentrics, otherwise a bore. Apr 18, 2008
I agree that this climb is of poor quality. Before bolts (June 19, 1980, to be exact), I led Cathy Mallow up this dihedral/gully. (Does this put me in the pantheon containing the likes of the Stettners, Ellingwood, or Ormes?) I didn't report our ascent because someone could have climbed it before we did, and I didn't report anything in those days. Instead, I kept a journal and occasionally took photos. Jan 3, 2012
Jon Oulton
Boulder, CO
 
Jon Oulton   Boulder, CO
 
Got about 1/2 of the way up this route last Sunday and ended up downclimbing because of all the loose blocks. There are more than a few toaster-sized blocks that will be easily knocked loose if pulled on or used as a foot-hold.

It would be irresponsible to do this route if there are other parties on the ground. Make sure your belayer is attentive and has a helmet on. Aug 15, 2017
Jason Haas
  5.7
Jason Haas  
  5.7
I soloed this route yesterday and did not find hardly any loose blocks on it at all. Near the top there was a breadloaf-sized loose block that was sitting on a ledge that was easily avoidable. I didn't throw it off, because I was afraid it'd go to the road. There was some blocks that looked loose at the very top, but I tested all the ones I used thoroughly as I was soloing, and none of them moved. Also doing the route in late fall/early winter was good, because all the plants lost their leaves and were easier to navigate around. Overall I liked the route. Nov 12, 2017
Andy Renz
Boulder, Colorado
Andy Renz   Boulder, Colorado
May have left a La Sportiva Katana Lace Up at the bottom of Animation....

Give me a call at 3077304933 or email andyrenz5@gmail.com (might not be in immediate phone service) if you find it. You're the best! Nov 15, 2017

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