PRINT: Rock Climb Automatic Choke, Boulder Canyon

Automatic Choke

5.11c R, Trad, TR, 50 ft (15 m),

Avg: 3 from 4 votes
FA: Dan Hare and Kent Lugbill, June 1980
Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Animal World > Lower Animal World

Access Issue: Seasonal raptor closures for 2026 - Bitty Buttress, Blob, East Blob, Security Risk - open. Eagle Rock, Vampire, Black Widow Slab - closed. Details

Per *Items added 12/30 Closet clean out. Apparel, approach shoe's, (BD, prana, scarpa, REI): Blob, Bitty, and Security Risk have been reopened on 4/21/26.

The USFS closed Blob, E Blob, Security, Bitty, Vampire, and Black Widow through 7/31/26.

5/19/25 Eagle Rock opened. 3/14/25: Bitty Buttress, Blob, & SR reopened.

2/3/25. Bitty Buttress, Blob, Eagle Rock &, Security Risk closed for raptors.

FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!

2/1/24: W. McCurry: USFS annual closures in Boulder Canyon as of 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.

W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock is closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….

W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures: Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.

Through 7/31/23, the closures protect golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.

The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers re: giving eagles space to raise young.

Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.

K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.

K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20: following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF reopened Eagle Rock.

“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”

Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.

“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.

After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.

The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.

Through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.

It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.

For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….

4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.

K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.

See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….

Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.

Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec….

Description

Full disclosure: I backed off from the lead and opted to TR the dirty crux, which promptly spit me off. After brushing it with my fingers, I was able to do the moves, but it was still very insecure due to the flakes and lichen. The route is little-traveled and is ok for moves and position, but it really still needs a good wipe-down. I did not have a brush with me when I did it, so it still needs one. The moves and position are cool enough to merit a few stars, but the dirt and loose crystals take them away: 1 star for now, 2 or more if it cleans up.

Just right of Animal Riots Activist and just beyond the neighboring 12b, there is a RP crack that goes up past some intermittent flakes and cracks though an overhang to reach the top of the left side of that arete. This is around left from Cannabis Sportiva and Joint Venture.

Climb up thin, moderate cracks, and start plunking in the brass steel and other tiny wires. Reach up to some horizontal flakes, and get established and plug in a nest of them just before the climbing gets steep. Cast off into steep land on a pumpy pinch and a good finger lock. Place a good TCU out of the finger lock and crack the crux (easier for fatter fingers, rattly for smaller) then place another cam over head and pull over the top of the route.

Place a directional and walk left or right to some sport anchors. A TR could be rigged if so desired, with a creative directional. You'd can climb the 12a or 12b neighboring sport route to get up to that ledge, neither of which seem harder than this climb... or you can climb one of the easy crack systems around to the right to reach the same ledge.

Protection

Several nests of HB anchors or RPs, a few other nuts and a 0.75" and 2" cam. Place enough that you are confident to fall on the thin stuff - it is likely to happen. Some of the gear is pumpy to place.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Greg Hand
Golden, CO

5.11c R

About a month ago I put in a bolted anchor on this route and cleaned it, not knowing it had been done before. The anchor is easily reachable by lowering/rappelling from the Cannabis Sportiva anchors. In talking with Kent, it was an impressive lead by Dan Hare without cams. I think the climbing is excellent and should now see more traffic. A lead of this route would be serious as Tony has stated. Nov 9, 2006

Brady Robinson
Boulder, CO

I gave this route a go yesterday. The gear was heads up until the pod at mid-height, but the climbing up to that point isnt too bad. The fractured hold in the crack didnt inspire confidence, however. The crack is just left of the arête at the crux I reached around to the right instead of jamming the off-fingers crack and found enough of an edge to get through it. It would be harder if you stayed in the crack, but a little contrived in my opinion. Good route. Jul 19, 2009

Dougald MacDonald

For wusses like me, it's convenient to TR this route from the anchors on Cannabis Sportiva. Short but fun. Mar 15, 2015