Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Ken Trout, Rick Leitner
Page Views: 9,328 total · 46/month
Shared By: Old Fart aka Dave Bohn on Feb 17, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

A fantastic "Gym Style" climb, this is the third route from the left (west) on the west buttress of Animal World. It is somewhat camouflaged behind a pine tree on the approach. Perfect holds with thoughtfully placed clips lead up increasingly steeper and harder climbing to an incredible sloper move to surmount a roof. Don't let your guard down for the finish as the climbing switches gears into a 11a slab to the anchors!

Protection

7-8 draws plus anchors.
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11d
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11d
Without commenting too much further on the grade, I can say that at 5'10" there is a dividing line. This climb [would] be significantly harder for short people than for tall people due to the [availability] to [toe-hook] the feet below the sloping rail. I'm 5'10" and have relatively long arms and found that I could reach everything I needed without a real struggle, but with not more than an inch to spare. Jun 18, 2002
This has to be one of the hardest 12a sport climbs in Boulder Canyon Jun 26, 2002
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11d
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11d
I did not think that this one was too hard, but maybe it plays to my strengths. It is a matter of just a few moves. Shoulder strength and arm length may be crux for some people, but for me it was more the footwork that gave me the body position I needed. 5.12a seems reasonable, I guess for a local grade on sport. I've been on harder 5.11s and easier 5.12s. Jun 26, 2002
jonah  
Whoa. The hardest 12a I've ever been on. What toe hook are you talking about? I'm only 5'8", but I would think I would've at least seen something for the feet. I ended up just campusing through the slopers to the finger bucket at the end. Nice to see some Boulder Canyon climbs with honest (sandbagged) grades. May 29, 2003
I agree with the comments above regarding this route. I got so flustered, falling repeatedly off the crux, that I tried to aid it by stepping in a sling, albeit unsuccessfully. I'm 6' tall with long arms so I don't think the problem is a reach issue. The crux seems to be sorting out your sequence of slaps along the slopey crimps at the lip of the bulge. May 29, 2003
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11d
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11d
Oh sure, ask me a year later... (snicker)I honestly recall it not being that hard for 5.12a- maybe the same as Empire of the Fenceless (?). Anyway, the toe hooks I am talking about were like side-pulls for the toes down below and kept my body at the right angles to be somewhat secure with the available hands. No doubt, as this climb "wears in" over the years, it will get harder. May 29, 2003
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
  5.12a
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
  5.12a
Difficult, one-move-wonder. Contrasted to Global Gorilla, it should earn a single star for the easy approach to the crux (5.9 or 5.10), single move crux perhaps two, a ledge rest before the last sequence, and a short route overall.

Slopey move to a deep slot. Gotta stick the sloper. Jun 19, 2003
I didn't find this route to be stout for 12a. In fact, Sun Dog - also 12a at Animal World - is significantly harder. Jun 25, 2003
ac
 
ac  
 
Beta: Stop reading if you don't want it. Left foot on nubbin, right on a good edge to the right, hands on the chalked jug well beneath the roof. High reach with LEFT hand to the left side of the sloping roof. Right foot out left kickback style. Right hand to a small crimpy sidepull out right below the roof (hard to see). Grab it, adjust left hand to slopy crimp on roof. Walk feet over to the right ending with the right foot on good sloper way out right. Then go for the slanting jug above the roof with your right hand. Oct 22, 2003
Erik L Ahrn_
  5.12a
Erik L Ahrn_  
  5.12a
One hard move and that's pretty much it... Took me a while to figure out how to pull the crux. Oct 27, 2003
Jug haul to V4 boulder problem. I found to best beta is high step left from the jug, left hand windmill to the low sloper/sidepull on the lip, right foot on good edge below jug, right hand backstep to postive part of the lip, match, left foot to jug, right foot flag, right hand gaston on rail then crimp it. Cut feet and swing right foot to low positive rail, shift your weight and fire to the good crimp. 5 moves. This route gave me a hard time the first time I was on it. Nov 24, 2005
Charlie Fried
New York, NY
  5.12a/b
Charlie Fried   New York, NY
  5.12a/b
This route is definitely similar to a gym climb. The crux is very difficult for shorter people. While you're on the sloper, the rope can get in the way of your foot maneuvering. Jun 18, 2006
Jason Anderson
Boulder
5.11c
Jason Anderson   Boulder  
5.11c
This felt significantly easier than 5.12s on nearby walls. I have recently had difficulty with Prince of Thieves 5.12a/b and Space Goats 5.11d. I want to rate this 11b, but to reduce conflict, I'll say 5.11c. I'm 5'6.5" +3. Oct 15, 2006
brain damage
  5.11c/d
brain damage  
  5.11c/d
This climb is great an fairly easy hike up to the crux then play on the sloper for a while right hand over to crimper. Then throw for a little crack. Then walk up the rest. May 30, 2010
Eric Rak
Seattle, WA
 
Eric Rak   Seattle, WA
 
Kind of a cruise to the crux but nice movement. Coming off of an elbow injury maybe I'm feeling soft, but the crux move seemed 12a to me. Jul 27, 2010
Phil Lauffen
Innsbruck, AT
  5.12a
Phil Lauffen   Innsbruck, AT  
  5.12a
Probably soft, but I thought it was a ton of fun. The moves before the crux are big for me! My feet often cut going to the triangular jug, then some high steps and pinches get me to the crux, which felt a little more difficult than Days of Future Passed. May 27, 2011
chris v.
Chicago
 
chris v.   Chicago
 
This route is temperature dependent. Sent second go today, the middle of December. Comparing this to Empire of the Fenceless or Strange Science just across the canyon, I would say it sits in between. In 60+ degrees, it would be hard. 11d? Dec 18, 2011
Cesar Valencia
  5.12a
Cesar Valencia  
  5.12a
I'm short, so I went from the slopers and basically jumped to the good rail out right. Once I stuck that, I swung my right foot over and crossed my left hand into the rail and mantled up to the slab section. I thought it was a fun route overall. Mar 11, 2012
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.12a
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
  5.12a
I'm 8ft. tall and this route felt like 5.9b. But, my girlfriend is only 3.6 inches tall and she said it felt like 5.17a so we split the difference and came up with 5.12a. Oh, and this is a good route too if you like that sort of thing. Dec 21, 2012
slim

  5.12a
slim    
  5.12a
Interesting reading the comments after climbing this recently. I'll chip in my .02:

Toe cam - I have no idea where you would use a toe cam to make it easier, it seemed like the holds were all facing the wrong way for this tactic(???).

Hard/easy... my first go felt really hard, but it was pretty hot and humid, which isn't a good combo for this (or any) route. After figuring it out, it was still not super easy.

Somebody calls it 11c, and their tick comments say 'onsight with a rest' or something like that. Not sure what to say about that.

Short versus tall, either should work ok. Short would be better for heel hooking. Tall can throw further, but it is more shouldery. I missed ac's hidden crimp, maybe that would help. Another person had a good comment about paying attention to moving your leg around the rope.

My first go I didn't really enjoy it, but after I put it together, it was actually pretty fun. Definitely worth doing if you are in the area. Aug 26, 2013
Gneiss Yeti
Denver, Colorado
 
Gneiss Yeti   Denver, Colorado
 
No comment on grade; however, foot beta is important on this one. I found that cutting my feet at the lip and, with momentum, throwing my right foot on the obvious, large foot hold out right made this go down fairly easy. Ignore those tiny ticked jibs.... Stick to the good feet. Jun 5, 2014
Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.12a
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.12a
The crux beta seemed pretty straightforward (hang slopers, throw right foot onto a good edge out right, reach with right hand to a sinker finger-bucket). Fun route. Jul 30, 2014
Carl Schaefer
Boulder, CO
Carl Schaefer   Boulder, CO
Both anchor hangers are loose. I don't know how solid the bolts are, but rappel/lower carefully, and don't toprope off them. May 30, 2017