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Routes in Animal World

Aardvark T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Animal Instinct S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Animal Magnetism S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Animal Riots Activist S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Animation S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Automatic Choke T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Balance, The T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Beast Food Left S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Beast Food Right S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blame it on a Rush of Blood to the Head T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Blockhead S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cannabis Sportiva T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Closer To God S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Cold Snap T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crack Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cujo Tranquilizer S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Days of Future Passed aka Our Future Has Passed S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dihedral T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Evolution Revolution S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Familiar Strangers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Feeding The Beast (aka Beast Food) T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fifth Destiny, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Fifth World, The T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Free Willie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Geritol Generation T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Global Gorilla S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gull Whackers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hands of Destiny S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Hope and Pray T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Is It Ready Yet...Moe S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Isn't Life Strange S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Joint Venture S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Krakatoa T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Laurel & Hardy Meet Abbott & Costello S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lazy Day S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lovely to See You T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Melancholy Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
New Beginnings S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nice To Be Here S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Old Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Piles of Trials S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pit Bull Prowser S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Reversal Roof S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c V7 7A+
Ride My See-saw S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Split Personality S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Strange Times T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sundog S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Talking Out Of Turn S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Threshold Of A Dream S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Triple Play T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tuesday Afternoon S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unfamiliar Strangers S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
We Don't Do Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wine and Roses T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 2 pitches
FA: Richard Rossiter, and Leah Macaluso
Page Views: 8,080 total, 40/month
Shared By: Peter Franzen on Apr 13, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Lying in the middle of the Lower Animal World cliff, this route leads up thin face holds to a bulging face near the top.

P1. The route starts below a large roof that is about 30 feet up. It then climbs around the left of the roof, which is followed by easy climbing to the two bolt anchor.

P2. The second pitch continues up a bolted bulging arete to another set of anchors at the top of the cliff.

Protection

This route can be done in 1 or two pitches, but there are 4 bolts per pitch. A 60m rope is necessary to get to the ground from the top anchors.
May have left a La Sportiva Katana Lace at the bottom of Animation...

Give me a call at 3077304933 or email andyrenz5@gmail.com (might not be in immediate phone service) if you find it. You're the best! 2 days ago
EricR
Nederland
EricR   Nederland
Lost my watch at the bottom of this climb. If you find it, please call!

Thanks

916-201-9475

Eric Oct 7, 2017
Larry S
Boulder, CO
 
Larry S   Boulder, CO
 
Really enjoyed this climb, great movement and interesting holds. The bottom section felt .11- to me moving to the arete around the 4th bolt, and .10ish moving to the arete around the 2nd bolt. The upper section was a fun end to the climb, and the moves before the anchor are in the 10+ range. Jul 17, 2017
keith story
Boulder, CO
  5.11b/c
keith story   Boulder, CO
  5.11b/c
Maybe I was having a rough day, but this route caught me ofFguard.

I think I missed a clutch hold or something, 'cause I had to so some high-brow fandangaling on nail-y stubs to get up the bottom section.

I hope next time I climb it, I'll have a "a-ha!" moment followed by a face-palm. Jun 28, 2012
J P
Denver, CO
  5.10d
J P   Denver, CO
  5.10d
We pulled a tiny post-thaw flake off just above the second bolt, but it didn't seem to impact the climb.

From above the first bolt to the area just left and under the roof, this climb requires balance and technique more than it requires strength or crimping.

Don't be scared off by the consensus grade. If you climb in the 10s regularly, you'll be able to do this climb. Mar 16, 2012
Top Rope Hero
Was Estes Park, now homeless
  5.11a
Top Rope Hero   Was Estes Park, now homeless
  5.11a
A bit inconsistent, but good times, nonetheless. I didn't find the supposed 5.10 moves around the cruxes, but the 11a move down low and the one up top are each just one-move wonders.

One thing: I don't understand climbing just the first "pitch," which is only about as tall as Dennis Rodman. Unless you have an old-school, 37ft rope, you should probably think about taking the WHOLE line, young leader. The second "pitch" is wholly different, but just as good, with a little spice if'n you don't have monkey arms. And the overhanging top out jug fest is about as fun a finish as you can ask for.

And forget the cams--you don't need them for the cruxes. While JV may not be littered with bolts like the rest of Boulder Canyon, it still protects plenty well where you need it with the clips at hand. Apr 13, 2010
Robb M.  
Thanks for the beta Joshua! Jul 23, 2009
Joshua Merriam
Boulder, CO
Joshua Merriam   Boulder, CO
Re: Robb M.

Blockhead .12+. Jul 15, 2009
John mac
Boulder, CO
  5.11a
John mac   Boulder, CO
  5.11a
If only there were about 100' of the lower face! Great route anyway. May 7, 2009
SAL
broomdigiddy
  5.12
SAL   broomdigiddy
  5.12
The second pitch if staying in the crack is pretty stout. I believe it is said to be 5.12.

It felt pretty darn hard. You can easily finish the route or choose to just climb the arete skipping this crack. Sure is fun climbing though. Really fun as one long pitch no matter how you finish it. Feb 22, 2009
Robb M.  
Does anyone know anything about the new bolt line that leaves Joint Venture and goes directly over the roof? Aug 31, 2008
Paul Hunnicutt
Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Paul Hunnicutt   Boulder, CO
  5.11a
IMHO, the lower section goes at 5.10+ for those interested. Watch your rope around the arete and you might want one smallish cam to get to the anchors. Green or Yellow alien. Jul 2, 2008
Paul Hunnicutt
Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Paul Hunnicutt   Boulder, CO
  5.11a
ALERT: If you climb this to the bolted anchor and then climb 'Cannabis Sportiva', there is a big, TV-sized, loose block about 6' left of the anchor sitting on a ledge. It looks like a great hand jam behind it to make the traverse but - DO NOT PULL ON IT!! We would have thrown this to the ground, but were worried about it eventually rolling to the highway. It certainly needs to come off though. May 8, 2008
Kyle Turner
Brighton, CO
  5.11a
Kyle Turner   Brighton, CO
  5.11a
Fun route with a thin start and some good steming on the upper "pitch". Easily done as one pitch with a 60m and minor rope drag. Nice climb. Nov 6, 2006
If you're thinking of linking up the first part of Joint Venture with Cannabis Sportiva, don't! It's certainly possibly with long slings, but it's not worth the risk to your belayer. There are some gnarly loose blocks in between the two routes that you must traverse across. Jul 18, 2003
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11a
This route can be climbed as an easy 5.10 or maybe an 5.11a, depending upon the line taken. On the upper section, where it follows the arete it is also possible to set right into the dihedral there (still within clipping reach) and stem/palm to the right to pass the crux on the arete. Jun 27, 2003
I listed Dan's route on this website as "Beast Food" which is what Rolofson's book calls it. I also gave it the 12b rating that Rolofson listed.

And as a point of clarification, I think this beta photo is a bit misleading - the anchors shown here are actually the anchors for Beast Food.You have to stay right to get to the anchors of Joint Venture.

All that aside, Joint Venture is a really fun line on nice stone! May 6, 2003
I seem forever to be in the role of guide book writer. If I go to Manhattan, people stop me and ask how to get to the Trade Towers. As for Joint Venture, the name is a play on Cannabis Sportiva, and on the fact that I did this originally with Leah Macaluso. Leah, being rather short, hated the upper arete. She was my massage therapist as well as a lovely climbing partner. Dan Hare had nothing to do with this route. Leah and I started in the narrow dihedral in the left of the photo via gear, then climbed the arete to the right of Dan''s route. Do you people read guides books or just make this stuff up? Dan's route climbs the steep face just right of the initial arete then takes the upper dihedral just left of the upper arete of Joint Venture. Dan's route is called Feeding the Beast and is rated overall, 12a. The name may be a reference to Dan's insatiable lust for setting new routes. May 5, 2003
This is a great climb, but the fledgling (flailing?) 5.11 leader might want to bring at least one mid size nut or a #3 or 4 Metolius size for the run from bolts 6 to 7 (counting clipping the lower anchor as a 'bolt'). I found it a little much for my taste, as the climbing got harder there, and the reach was a bit much for my 5'6" self. Otherwise a great route with fun moves below and again up higher. Jun 12, 2001