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Routes in Animal World

Aardvark T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Animal Instinct S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Animal Magnetism S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Animal Riots Activist S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Animation S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Automatic Choke T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Balance, The T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Beast Food Left S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Beast Food Right S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blame it on a Rush of Blood to the Head T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Blockhead S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cannabis Sportiva T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Closer To God S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Cold Snap T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crack Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cujo Tranquilizer S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Days of Future Passed aka Our Future Has Passed S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dihedral T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Evolution Revolution S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Familiar Strangers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Feeding The Beast (aka Beast Food) T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fifth Destiny, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Fifth World, The T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Free Willie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Geritol Generation T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Global Gorilla S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gull Whackers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hands of Destiny S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Hope and Pray T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Is It Ready Yet...Moe S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Isn't Life Strange S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Joint Venture S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Krakatoa T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Laurel & Hardy Meet Abbott & Costello S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lazy Day S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lovely to See You T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Melancholy Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
New Beginnings S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nice To Be Here S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Old Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Piles of Trials S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pit Bull Prowser S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Reversal Roof S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c V7 7A+
Ride My See-saw S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Split Personality S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Strange Times T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sundog S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Talking Out Of Turn S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Threshold Of A Dream S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Triple Play T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tuesday Afternoon S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unfamiliar Strangers S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
We Don't Do Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wine and Roses T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, Sport
FA: Richard Rossiter and Gail Effron
Page Views: 7,680 total, 39/month
Shared By: Matt Robertson on Oct 23, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Cannabis Sportiva starts left of the Joint Venture corner on the West Buttress of Animal World, immediately right of a small roof 10 feet off the ground. Look high and see a short line of bolts up a steepening face near the top of the cliff.

From the ground, roll up easy cracks and ledges, then mantle a shelf at the start of the steeper climbing where bolts indicate the way. Blaze up interesting and sometimes reachy zig-zag moves on crystalline stone of increasing angle, where holds get bigger as you get higher, until a very positive horn is hit for the last clip. Grab a token puff of chalk, shake out and inhale for the big move. Fire up powerfully from the horn, or use a fingerlock that seems too paranoid for 11a, and grope for some high, blind slopers atop the face to clip the chains with an ear-to-ear grin.

A fun pitch, made slightly more enjoyable by sensible bolting; sure to provide a buzz.

Protection

Draws for six bolts and chain anchors. Small cams and one medium bong optional. Kindly bolted up high; the first forty feet (5.7-.8) has no fixed gear. The prudent leader might bring a couple small cams or a nut sack; abundant cracks below the bolted face should eat any gear up to a #1 Camalot. One 60 meter rope will bring you down from your high.
Branty
Boulder, CO
 
Branty   Boulder, CO
 
Oh boy! What a fun route! Nice climbing with great cracks available from hand-sized to finger-sized. Great overhanging stuff at the top, too. The finger cracks below the big horn are just fantastic! Nov 26, 2017
The right anchor bolt is spinning, I didn't have a wrench with me. Everything else looks good. Nov 25, 2017
May have left a La Sportiva Katana Lace Up at the bottom of Animation....

Give me a call at 3077304933 or email andyrenz5@gmail.com (might not be in immediate phone service) if you find it. You're the best! Nov 15, 2017
Keith W
  5.10d
Keith W  
  5.10d
Gave this a go yesterday and loved it! Definitely a bit run out at the start, but it's not really hard. I brought a small nut rack and #0.4-#1 Camalots and found that sufficient; however, some small cams may be easier for the first placement, which was an awkward stance. The top half is way too cool. Loved the dynamic moves at the top. This climb made my day as well! .10c/d and probably easier if you are taller. Feb 6, 2017
B. Smith
Denver, CO
 
B. Smith   Denver, CO
 
I used cams #0.3-2 for the first section and they worked perfectly. I was a little far off the ground when I got my first piece in, but it was easy climbing. I think the "5.11 crux" was more like 10b/c. Maybe it is height-dependent? This was a very fun climb and kinda made my day. Mar 16, 2014
John Dubya  
 
The last 2 or 3 bolts are spinning, as well the anchor bolts. Feels safe, but if someone can take a wrench up there, it would be better. Great climb! Jun 21, 2013
Drew Clements
Fort Collins, CO
Drew Clements   Fort Collins, CO
Double finger jam to a semi-dynamic throw under the anchors, 5.Fun. Jul 7, 2012
keith story
Boulder, CO
  5.10c/d
keith story   Boulder, CO
  5.10c/d
The last couple moves are quite creative and made this route.

NOTE FOR SELF-RAPPEL:
Ya might want to set up a trolley or something, otherwise you'll be swinging hard if ya need to unclip your draws on the way down. Jun 28, 2012
Top Rope Hero
Was Estes Park, now homeless
  5.10c/d
Top Rope Hero   Was Estes Park, now homeless
  5.10c/d
The prudent leader might bring a nut sack?!?

EASY, Robertson. Let's let the ladies have a go, too.

Fabulous fun climb for the grade, which I place at a couple letter grades below 11a, especially if'n you're tall and long armed. The punch all comes at the very end, with generous bolts and some THANK GOD holds on top.

Takes sequence, though--gotta hit the finish right. (No cheap beta; it's either left hand or right. You gotta 50/50 chance, sucka!) Apr 2, 2010
percious
Bear Creek, CO
  5.10d
percious   Bear Creek, CO
  5.10d
Don't be fooled by the featured start. Be prepared to be a little run out on small gear heading up to the bolts. The first piece of gear was well off the ground and I felt was strenuous to place. Small cams are advisable. May 21, 2009
I thought this was a 10ish route. Probably 10c or d even with the left crack. A few balancy moves followed by some beat your chest ape moves. The horn makes it just plain fun and the bolts are very well placed. Kudos to the bolter. Aug 18, 2008
Paul Hunnicutt
Boulder, CO
  5.10d
Paul Hunnicutt   Boulder, CO
  5.10d
ALERT: If you climb Joint Venture first to the bolted anchor and then traverse back left to 'Cannabis Sportiva', there is a big, TV-sized, loose block about 6' left of the anchor sitting on a ledge. It looks like a great hand jam behind it to make the traverse but - DO NOT PULL ON IT!! We would have thrown this to the ground, but were worried about it eventually rolling to the highway. It certainly needs to come off though. May 8, 2008
Brad Schildt
Boulder, CO
Brad Schildt   Boulder, CO
Kudos to Matt Robertson for a classic route description! I found 13 reeferences... Apr 9, 2007
SirVato
Boulder
 
SirVato   Boulder
 
Sweet pitch!! The moves off the ground were fun and that carries through to the rest of the route.

I took green/yellow/red Aliens and .75/1/2 Camalots for the start, and found that to be fine for gear on the lower portion of the route. May 15, 2006
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
The Rolofson guide says the last moves are 10b if you use the crack a few feet to the left or 11a if you don't. That may explain the difference in opinion as to the rating. It's pretty contrived NOT to use the crack on the left. Why not do it both ways? Climb the 10 crack, step back down, then climb it direct. Dec 30, 2005
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
Fun route, and a gimme at 11a. Jul 18, 2003
Starting the route proper just barely to the right of the roof seemed balancy and tricky, especially right off the deck. I'm sure you can walk up the gully further right.....enjoyable route with crack climber feel up high. I'm surprised how many bolts there are. The finger locks were bomber; felt like 10a at Eldo. May 14, 2003
Per my buddy from Canada, this route is very kind in a couple of ways, eh?

Great climb but a bit overrated and probably climbs around a 10c/d at most. Feb 22, 2003
The horn that Jon mentioned seemed very out-of-place on this route. But I welcomed it with tired hands. A really cool route. The line more or less goes up the middle of the picture below. The bolts start right about where the sun is shining. Where the sun don't shine is the crack system. A few smaller cams or stoppers would take care of this pretty easily. Enjoy this climb it is one that about any intermediate climbe can do. Aug 30, 2002
It's possible to heel-hook the horn to get some additional leverage while trying to pull the burly .11a move; Laura Black tried it on Saturday, 6/29/02, and it seemed to give her the extra bit of "oomph" weaklings like me need to pull harder moves. This is a thoroughly enjoyable climb, made more enjoyable by the steadily-increasing difficulty.

It might be just me, but it appears to me that the left bolt at the top of this route could probably stand to be replaced. Jul 1, 2002