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Feeding The Beast (aka Beast Food)
5.12- YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 2.4 from 33
votes
Routes in Lower Animal World
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Aardvark T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Animal Riots Activist S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Animation S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Automatic Choke T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Baby Blockhead T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Baby Dog S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Beast Food Left S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Beast Food Right S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Blockhead S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Cannabis Sportiva T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Cold Snap T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Crack Corner T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Days of Future Passed aka Our Future Has Passed S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dihedral T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Familiar Strangers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Feeding The Beast (aka Beast Food) T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Free Willie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Geritol Generation T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Gull Whackers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Is It Ready Yet...Moe S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Joint Venture S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Laurel & Hardy Meet Abbott & Costello S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lazy Day S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Lovely to See You T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Melancholy Man S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Nice To Be Here S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Old Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Piles of Trials S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Reversal Roof S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b V7 7A+ |
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Threshold Of A Dream S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Triple Play T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tuesday Afternoon S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Unfamiliar Strangers S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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We Don't Do Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | Dan Hare & Rob Stanley, 1997 |
| Page Views: | 5,385 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | Fred Vanden Bergh on Jul 27, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!)
Details
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Description
This route is on the lower Animal World buttress, immediately left of Joint Venture's upper half. Where Joint Venture heads to the right of the 2 bolt mid-height anchor, Feeding the Beast stays to the left of the line of bolts on the upper section. It could be rapped in two, short raps if you don't have a 60m rope.
Climb up the fun 11a/b face at the base of Joint Venture through 4 bolts, past the 2 bolt anchor, stay left and up the dihedral (5.8 or 9-ish...takes gear) to the start of the bolts and the meat of the pitch. The awkward crux will call on your crack technique and your endurance, so don't dawdle until you clip the anchors.
Though the rock quality and the gear is good, I'm not sure it merits two full stars--- maybe 1.5 ....
Climb up the fun 11a/b face at the base of Joint Venture through 4 bolts, past the 2 bolt anchor, stay left and up the dihedral (5.8 or 9-ish...takes gear) to the start of the bolts and the meat of the pitch. The awkward crux will call on your crack technique and your endurance, so don't dawdle until you clip the anchors.
Though the rock quality and the gear is good, I'm not sure it merits two full stars--- maybe 1.5 ....
Protection
60m rope, 12 quickdraws for the bolts, and mid-size cams (#1-3) for the dihedral. (I placed a red Alien and a red Camalot). Rap anchors.
Loose Block Warning!
WARNING: midway through, right before the roof, there is a solid block 20"x36" on the face that is just teetering off, it almost broke loose. I tried to tick it with an X, but it was too far gone, and we were alone. Be VERY, VERY CAREFUL.
Per David Mills: this large loose flake was knocked down on August 6, 2017 and is no longer an issue on the route.
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