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Routes in Animal World

Aardvark T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Animal Instinct S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Animal Magnetism S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Animal Riots Activist S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Animation S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Automatic Choke T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Balance, The T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Beast Food Left S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Beast Food Right S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blame it on a Rush of Blood to the Head T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Blockhead S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cannabis Sportiva T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Closer To God S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Cold Snap T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crack Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cujo Tranquilizer S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Days of Future Passed aka Our Future Has Passed S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dihedral T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Evolution Revolution S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Familiar Strangers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Feeding The Beast (aka Beast Food) T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fifth Destiny, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Fifth World, The T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Free Willie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Geritol Generation T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Global Gorilla S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gull Whackers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hands of Destiny S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Hope and Pray T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Is It Ready Yet...Moe S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Isn't Life Strange S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Joint Venture S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Krakatoa T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Laurel & Hardy Meet Abbott & Costello S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lazy Day S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lovely to See You T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Melancholy Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
New Beginnings S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nice To Be Here S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Old Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Piles of Trials S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pit Bull Prowser S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Reversal Roof S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c V7 7A+
Ride My See-saw S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Split Personality S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Strange Times T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sundog S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Talking Out Of Turn S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Threshold Of A Dream S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Triple Play T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tuesday Afternoon S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unfamiliar Strangers S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
We Don't Do Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wine and Roses T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, Sport, 90 ft
FA: Dan Hare & Rob Stanley, 1997
Page Views: 3,535 total, 19/month
Shared By: Fred Vanden Bergh on Jul 27, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This route is on the lower Animal World buttress, immediately left of Joint Venture's upper half. Where Joint Venture heads to the right of the 2 bolt mid-height anchor, Feeding the Beast stays to the left of the line of bolts on the upper section. It could be rapped in two, short raps if you don't have a 60m rope.

Climb up the fun 11a/b face at the base of Joint Venture through 4 bolts, past the 2 bolt anchor, stay left and up the dihedral (5.8 or 9-ish...takes gear) to the start of the bolts and the meat of the pitch. The awkward crux will call on your crack technique and your endurance, so don't dawdle until you clip the anchors.

Though the rock quality and the gear is good, I'm not sure it merits two full stars--- maybe 1.5 ....

Protection

60m rope, 12 quickdraws for the bolts, and mid-size cams (#1-3) for the dihedral. (I placed a red Alien and a red Camalot). Rap anchors.

Loose Block Warning!

WARNING: midway through, right before the roof, there is a solid block 20"x36" on the face that is just teetering off, it almost broke loose. I tried to tick it with an X, but it was too far gone, and we were alone. Be VERY, VERY CAREFUL.
May have left a La Sportiva Katana Lace Up at the bottom of Animation....

Give me a call at 3077304933 or email andyrenz5@gmail.com (might not be in immediate phone service) if you find it. You're the best! Nov 15, 2017
Rockfall to be cautious of here! Yesterday a large rock the size of an exercise ball fell right onto the crowd of bystanders. 5 people dove out of the way and were lucky to not be killed. The only girl with a helmet on was ironically enough hit in the head by the rock, but she was ok.
This was a good lesson for me, and please be careful out there! Aug 7, 2017
Bobbi Bensman
  5.12a
Bobbi Bensman  
  5.12a
Super fun route. I went up and right and had a blast. Didn't feel easy that way necessarily, especially getting to the anchors. 5.12a. Oct 16, 2015
danelle
Seattle, WA
danelle   Seattle, WA
Both my partner and I thought that going right was easier, though more contrived and less logical. Fun route! Jun 28, 2008
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.12-
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.12-
The funky moves staying left are pretty technical (cough cough, scummy kneebar) but what sells me on the idea that this is indeed a 5.12 is the vicsious pump you have by the end! Good climb- start on Joint Venture, clip one of the anchor bolts, then continue, placing a cam or two in the corner, and up to the top. A single 70M gets you down with rope to spare. I suspect a 60M will do as well, but have not confirmed. May 18, 2008
The crux getting into the slot on the 12b section is really strange! Felt like some sort of off width move, even though there wasn't any off width. hmm....

Also, I veered right into the old 5.7 for sufficiently easy ground to run out the distance between the bolts. The hand traverse from the old 5.7 dihedral out to the first bolt on Beast was exposed, but the jugs were huge! Sep 11, 2004
Chris Archer
  5.12b
Chris Archer  
  5.12b
The grading discrepancy is explained by the fact that the bolts on this route protect 2 different lines. Climbing the groove left of the bolts is continuously difficult and hard 12a or 12b. Climbing the blunt arete right of the bolts and angling back to the anchors also provides good climbing at 11+ or easy 12a. Both variations are worth doing. Oct 27, 2003
richard magill  
5.12b
Rolofson's book also calls this 12b, and I agree. I don't know why it originally got labelled as 12a. Jun 25, 2003
Henry Lester
Boulder, CO
Henry Lester   Boulder, CO
In my opinion, this route is a sandbag at 5.12a and is probably more fairly rated at 12b. After a technical crux getting up into the slot the pitch stays strenuous including clipping the anchors. Jun 23, 2003
richard magill  
5.12b
Alternate description from redundant posting [Added by Ed.]

Beast Food is really just a short but excellent second pitch, or alternate finish, to either the Old Dihedral (5.7) or Joint Venture (5.11a).

So you can use either of these two routes to get to Beast Food.From the midpoint anchors on Joint Venture, you can step immediately left into the crack, which is not difficult and can be protected by a couple of #1-#2 friends OR you can go up Joint Venture and clip the next bolt after the midpoint anchors, and then step left and clip the first bolt on Beast Food. If you were to continue up the rightmost bolt line here rather than stepping left, it would take you to the upper anchors of Joint Venture.

After all that explanation, here is my recommendation: skip the gear and the old dihedral, and climb the excellent first half of Joint Venture, which has nice 11a moves for the first 4 bolts. Then climb up and clip the next bolt after the midpoint anchors, and step left on jugs to start Beast Food.

Beast Food burls up a continuously overhanging headwall for about 15-20 feet of strenuous sidepulls, past 4 bolts to anchors at 85 feet.The moves are difficult and the feet are generally bad and hard to find.When you finally break out of the sidepulls, just under the anchors, you feel like you are out of the woods. However, you soon find that the holds are a little slopey and there are bad feet, so even the very last move before you clip the anchors is a bit tenuous.

Lots of fun and great stone! This thing would be 3 stars if it were longer. Linking it with the first half of Joint Venture makes for a long and reasonably continuous line.

Stays sunny until the afternoon. May 20, 2003