Type: Trad, Sport, 90 ft
FA: Dan Hare & Rob Stanley, 1997
Page Views: 3,727 total · 19/month
Shared By: Fred Vanden Bergh on Jul 27, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

25 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details


This route is on the lower Animal World buttress, immediately left of Joint Venture's upper half. Where Joint Venture heads to the right of the 2 bolt mid-height anchor, Feeding the Beast stays to the left of the line of bolts on the upper section. It could be rapped in two, short raps if you don't have a 60m rope.

Climb up the fun 11a/b face at the base of Joint Venture through 4 bolts, past the 2 bolt anchor, stay left and up the dihedral (5.8 or 9-ish...takes gear) to the start of the bolts and the meat of the pitch. The awkward crux will call on your crack technique and your endurance, so don't dawdle until you clip the anchors.

Though the rock quality and the gear is good, I'm not sure it merits two full stars--- maybe 1.5 ....


60m rope, 12 quickdraws for the bolts, and mid-size cams (#1-3) for the dihedral. (I placed a red Alien and a red Camalot). Rap anchors.

Loose Block Warning!

WARNING: midway through, right before the roof, there is a solid block 20"x36" on the face that is just teetering off, it almost broke loose. I tried to tick it with an X, but it was too far gone, and we were alone. Be VERY, VERY CAREFUL.


richard magill  
Alternate description from redundant posting [Added by Ed.]

Beast Food is really just a short but excellent second pitch, or alternate finish, to either the Old Dihedral (5.7) or Joint Venture (5.11a).

So you can use either of these two routes to get to Beast Food.From the midpoint anchors on Joint Venture, you can step immediately left into the crack, which is not difficult and can be protected by a couple of #1-#2 friends OR you can go up Joint Venture and clip the next bolt after the midpoint anchors, and then step left and clip the first bolt on Beast Food. If you were to continue up the rightmost bolt line here rather than stepping left, it would take you to the upper anchors of Joint Venture.

After all that explanation, here is my recommendation: skip the gear and the old dihedral, and climb the excellent first half of Joint Venture, which has nice 11a moves for the first 4 bolts. Then climb up and clip the next bolt after the midpoint anchors, and step left on jugs to start Beast Food.

Beast Food burls up a continuously overhanging headwall for about 15-20 feet of strenuous sidepulls, past 4 bolts to anchors at 85 feet.The moves are difficult and the feet are generally bad and hard to find.When you finally break out of the sidepulls, just under the anchors, you feel like you are out of the woods. However, you soon find that the holds are a little slopey and there are bad feet, so even the very last move before you clip the anchors is a bit tenuous.

Lots of fun and great stone! This thing would be 3 stars if it were longer. Linking it with the first half of Joint Venture makes for a long and reasonably continuous line.

Stays sunny until the afternoon. May 20, 2003
Henry Lester
Boulder, CO
Henry Lester   Boulder, CO
In my opinion, this route is a sandbag at 5.12a and is probably more fairly rated at 12b. After a technical crux getting up into the slot the pitch stays strenuous including clipping the anchors. Jun 23, 2003
richard magill  
Rolofson's book also calls this 12b, and I agree. I don't know why it originally got labelled as 12a. Jun 25, 2003
Chris Archer
Chris Archer  
The grading discrepancy is explained by the fact that the bolts on this route protect 2 different lines. Climbing the groove left of the bolts is continuously difficult and hard 12a or 12b. Climbing the blunt arete right of the bolts and angling back to the anchors also provides good climbing at 11+ or easy 12a. Both variations are worth doing. Oct 27, 2003
The crux getting into the slot on the 12b section is really strange! Felt like some sort of off width move, even though there wasn't any off width. hmm....

Also, I veered right into the old 5.7 for sufficiently easy ground to run out the distance between the bolts. The hand traverse from the old 5.7 dihedral out to the first bolt on Beast was exposed, but the jugs were huge! Sep 11, 2004
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
The funky moves staying left are pretty technical (cough cough, scummy kneebar) but what sells me on the idea that this is indeed a 5.12 is the vicsious pump you have by the end! Good climb- start on Joint Venture, clip one of the anchor bolts, then continue, placing a cam or two in the corner, and up to the top. A single 70M gets you down with rope to spare. I suspect a 60M will do as well, but have not confirmed. May 18, 2008
Seattle, WA
danelle   Seattle, WA
Both my partner and I thought that going right was easier, though more contrived and less logical. Fun route! Jun 28, 2008
Bobbi Bensman
Bobbi Bensman  
Super fun route. I went up and right and had a blast. Didn't feel easy that way necessarily, especially getting to the anchors. 5.12a. Oct 16, 2015
Rockfall to be cautious of here! Yesterday a large rock the size of an exercise ball fell right onto the crowd of bystanders. 5 people dove out of the way and were lucky to not be killed. The only girl with a helmet on was ironically enough hit in the head by the rock, but she was ok.
This was a good lesson for me, and please be careful out there! Aug 7, 2017
Andy Renz
Jackson, WY
Andy Renz   Jackson, WY
May have left a La Sportiva Katana Lace Up at the bottom of Animation....

Give me a call at 3077304933 or email andyrenz5@gmail.com (might not be in immediate phone service) if you find it. You're the best! Nov 15, 2017
Boulder, CO
ScoJo   Boulder, CO
This felt more like a single route to me than 2. There are multiple ways to climb through the crux, but that is true for many routes.

I climbed straight up the bolts (using holds on both sides of the bolt line). The difficulty felt similar to 12a routes in the area. Jun 13, 2018