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Routes in Animal World

Aardvark T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Animal Instinct S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Animal Magnetism S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Animal Riots Activist S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Animation S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Automatic Choke T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Balance, The T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Beast Food Left S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Beast Food Right S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blame it on a Rush of Blood to the Head T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Blockhead S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cannabis Sportiva T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Closer To God S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Cold Snap T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crack Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cujo Tranquilizer S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Days of Future Passed aka Our Future Has Passed S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dihedral T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Evolution Revolution S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Familiar Strangers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Feeding The Beast (aka Beast Food) T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fifth Destiny, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Fifth World, The T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Free Willie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Geritol Generation T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Global Gorilla S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gull Whackers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hands of Destiny S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Hope and Pray T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Is It Ready Yet...Moe S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Isn't Life Strange S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Joint Venture S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Krakatoa T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Laurel & Hardy Meet Abbott & Costello S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lazy Day S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lovely to See You T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Melancholy Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
New Beginnings S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nice To Be Here S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Old Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Piles of Trials S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pit Bull Prowser S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Reversal Roof S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c V7 7A+
Ride My See-saw S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Split Personality S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Strange Times T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sundog S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Talking Out Of Turn S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Threshold Of A Dream S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Triple Play T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tuesday Afternoon S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unfamiliar Strangers S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
We Don't Do Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wine and Roses T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Dan Hare and Noel Childs, 2004
Page Views: 9,142 total, 56/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Jul 21, 2004 with updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Start at a short steep wall 30' right of Animation/Jaycene's Dance. Climb the steep wall past two bolts (crux), then angle right and up easier (5.7-5.8) rock to the top.

Less sustained than Animation, but with a harder crux.

Protection

10 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. The pitch is about 85' long; a 60m rope needed to descend. There is a long runout between the 8th and 9th bolts on easy ground; you may want to bring some small-to-medium gear for this section.

Per Jonathan Awerbuch: I added a bolt to the route, with permission of the FA. There are now 10 bolts, and there is no longer a big runout.
Jonathan Awerbuch
Boulder, Colorado
Jonathan Awerbuch   Boulder, Colorado
Also, as someone mentioned earlier, you can clip the first bolt by standing on the big boulder at the start. The moves are 5.9+ right off the ground. Sep 5, 2017
Jonathan Awerbuch
Boulder, Colorado
Jonathan Awerbuch   Boulder, Colorado
The new bolt is added. There are now 10 bolts on the route. Sep 5, 2017
S. Neoh
  5.9
S. Neoh  
  5.9
Please add the bolt. I climbed this yesterday (Sep 2) and was amazed by the runout on what I think is 5.3 terrain. Still, the fall from the last bolt as it stands now will be big (~ 50 feet, figuring in slack and rope stretch). Sep 3, 2017
Jonathan Awerbuch
Boulder, Colorado
Jonathan Awerbuch   Boulder, Colorado
I just asked Dan for permission to add a bolt to remove the runout, and he said that he is fine with it. I'll get up there some time in the next week or so to do it. I'll post again when it's done. It will be a 3/8" by 2.75" stainless wedge bolt and stainless hanger, torqued to 25 ft-lbs.

I know some folks enjoyed the runout, but it is a potentially dangerous fall that is not in character with the rest of this climb, or the other climbs in this area. I would hate to see a 5.9 sport leader (or anyone else) get hurt on this otherwise very well-protected sport climb. Aug 31, 2017
Larry S
Boulder, CO
 
Larry S   Boulder, CO
 
5.9 climbing until the third bolt then much easier. The runout sections felt like 5.4 climbing to me on big positive holds, and I didn't feel the need to place gear even though I brought it after reading the MP recommendations. Aug 14, 2017
This is 5.9 PG or PG-13 without trad gear. If the person who bolted this route thought to themselves "Hmm..I'll leave this open for gear placement", then it should not be on Mtn Prjct as a "sport route." As a 5.12 leader, I felt great on it without gear! It was a fun climb!, but most 5.9 leaders will not feel comfortable with this route and should be notified that it is either NOT A SPORT ROUTE, or PG / PG-13.

It is tiresome to hear opinions that the route should be left 'as is' when it's not described correctly, and some very traditional climbers LOVE their easy run-out terrain for no apparent reason. We all know rock breaks, especially with freeze thaw. Apr 19, 2017
Jeff Limbocker
Boulder, CO
 
Jeff Limbocker   Boulder, CO
 
Fun climbing, but substantially easier after the second or third bolt. This is not the only route I've seen bolted this way. Remission in South Saint Vrain has similar runout, but like this climb, it is over very easy terrain for the grade. There are probably some places to place gear, but I feel it adds to the excitement of the climb. There are bolts where they are likely to be needed - It's just a different bolting philosophy.

As of this post, all bolts and anchors are in good shape. Lowering hooks can be found at the top. Placement of anchors can make setting up a rap tricky if you don't have long enough slings/PAS. Apr 17, 2017
Mason Roberts
Boulder, CO
  5.9
Mason Roberts   Boulder, CO
  5.9
Bring a #0.75 and a #1 to protect the runout if you're worried about 25' of unprotected 5.4 climbing. I'd give this three stars if it was more sustained - it get tremendously easier after the 2nd or 3rd bolt. Aug 8, 2016
Brian Hansen
West of Boulder, CO
Brian Hansen   West of Boulder, CO
Just take a small crescent wrench with you. Apr 21, 2016
Seb303
Denver, CO
5.10a
Seb303   Denver, CO
5.10a
I saw a condition report on this route towards the end of last year that said the anchors were loose and it was not currently safe to climb. That comment is now gone, but I see condition reports automatically disappear after 3 months.

Does anyone know if the bolts at the anchor's were replaced or tightened? In other words, is this route now safe or does it need some maintenance? Apr 21, 2016
I see that the vast majority here think this is 5.9. IMHO the bottom 2 bolts are 10. Hey but to each his own. Jul 10, 2013
JJR
Boulder, CO
  5.9-
JJR   Boulder, CO
  5.9-
Not a bad route. Did it while I was waiting for a party to get off of Animation to the left. First moves are the crux. To protect yourself a tad, you can climb up on to the big ass rock right at the base and clip the first bolt, then downclimb and start up left. After maybe the 3rd bolt or so, it's a jug haul. Fun, but a little scary on a really windy day... even though the holds are all super positive, the bolts are faaaar apart... if by some chance you take a fall, it's gonna be a big one. Worth doing once, I'd say, but probably won't go back to it. Jun 12, 2012
Wonderful bouldery start to jug haul/easy climbing. Genuinely enjoyed the runout as the section is very easy and no place for natural protection (granted we had a very calm evening session). It lets you realize your exposure and how high you are in the canyon, adding a bolt would take away from this route (runout is not harder than 5.7). Stay focused and appreciate your zen. May 18, 2012
Scotty Nelson
Boulder
 
Scotty Nelson   Boulder
 
This would be a good beginner lead, if it weren't for the pointless runout at the top. Who bolted this thing? May 2, 2012
Peter Sedivec
San Clemente, CA
  5.10- PG13
Peter Sedivec   San Clemente, CA
  5.10- PG13
First two bolts are the crux, most of climbing above there is much easier. I think the route is fairly well bolted, a bit of a space higher up but on some very easy moves. Jun 21, 2010
Crag Dweller
New York, NY
  5.9+
Crag Dweller   New York, NY
  5.9+
Fun route. Crux is def getting past the 1st & 2nd bolt. Fun, easy climbing up top w/enough run out to keep you on your toes. Oct 4, 2009
DamageVic
Coal Creek Canyon, CO
  5.9+
DamageVic   Coal Creek Canyon, CO
  5.9+
I used a green Alien somewhere around/between the 5th or 6th bolts and a black Alien between the 8th & 9th ("The Runout") bolts for good measure. The moves around the first few bolts are the hardest part and I enjoyed the rest of it. I did however stand on the boulder to the right and clip the 1st bolt, then started from the ground...a fall off those first moves could be ugly! Aug 14, 2009
jcntrl
Smoulder, CO
jcntrl   Smoulder, CO
Phil,
Rope stretch and the amount of slack out by the belayer (some climbers prefer a loose belay) could make a top-roped groundfall a possibility if the climber fell down low.

The best solution should obviously be to have the belayer keep a snug-to-tight belay for the first 5-10 feet or so, until rope stretch will definitely not be an issue. Jun 8, 2009
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
How is there potential for a groundfall on toprope? May 23, 2009
HansF
Jackson, WY
 
HansF   Jackson, WY
 
Caught my buddy on a fall off the beginning of this route last year. Well, I should say the bush caught him. It was pretty fun but even on TR there's a big potential for ground fall. Just make sure you got someone spotting you in the beginning of this one. May 22, 2009
Mark Cushman
Cumming, GA
  5.9
Mark Cushman   Cumming, GA
  5.9
Just imagine you're climbing at the Flatirons and the runout shouldn't bother you too much. The holds are all there and positive. Fun route! If you like, the route would go mixed with an assortment of thin to hand sized cams. May 1, 2008
Charlie Fried
New York, NY
  5.9-
Charlie Fried   New York, NY
  5.9-
The bottom is tricky, but anyone can figure it out pretty fast (you are on the ground). The 30 foot run out is pretty intimidating at first, but whoever bolted the route figured, if you can lead up to it, you should definitely be able to climb a 5.6 to the next bolt, although I'm not sure why a bolt wasn't placed. Does anyone know? Jun 18, 2006
Cody Munger
Carson City, NV
  5.8
Cody Munger   Carson City, NV
  5.8
The first move was easily done by standing on the flake and stepping up with your right foot on the big ramp. The lead was a bit scary since there was a bit of potential for groundfall on the first move. The rest was so pointlessly easy that I don't even think this route is worth doing. I rated it one 5.8 move with a lot of 4th class afterwards to my partners.

All the bolts seemed well placed, and the runout didn't bother me. Too bad the anchor wasn't placed a little higher so the last overhang could be part of the climb. Jun 13, 2005
S. Kimball
  5.9+
S. Kimball  
  5.9+
Semi-pile, the runout is the best part. Apr 1, 2005
ac
  5.8+
ac  
  5.8+
Does anybody know what the name of this Dan Hare (?) route is?

Also: perhaps this discussion is (long?) dead, but I'd add another vote for *not* adding more bolts.

I appreciate Peter Beal's perspective (the D'Antonio-esque access-for-all ideology, which is great if that's how you want to put up routes), but I tend to agree with the personal responsibility argument.

"rant" Pro opportunities are a fundamental part of *every* climb, sport or no. Suss things out for yourself, make decisions for yourself using the resources available to you (cb.com is major advantage over what we had even a few years ago in this respect...if you wade thru all the garbage), and climb it or don't. The FA party creates a line (and by "line" I mean the rock/pro combo): assess whether or not this line suits what you're up for climbing, and take responsibility for your own choice. If the FA party added enough bolts to make you comfortable, then great. If not, then this line isn't for you...luckily, there are about 10 thousand other lines within an hour to chose from! Finally, if you can't determine whether or not a line is for you with the resources at your disposal (e.g. eyes, brains, internet, friends, etc.) ... well, that's probably a good message that you might be better off moving to something else."/rant"

Old fashioned, and Anon by choice... Feb 24, 2005
Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
Gary Schmidt   Boulder, CO
Greg, I'll give you that one. It does seem a little strange to a bolt so close to anchors after a long run out. My comment about pointless was more directed to the first comment on the site, and that just in general I don't mind when you run it out a bit on a significantly easier section of a climb. But I am also very much for safety and if people think this route lulls unsuspecting climbers into a false sense of security then maybe it needs looking into. Nov 1, 2004
Tony,

It's called an extension, link-up, or variation -- it's legit and done all the time... Nov 1, 2004
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
  5.9
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
  5.9
Thanks everybody for all the reminders that climbing is dangerous. However the bottom of this route is anything but dangerous, while the top is "spicy", climber-talk for don't fall or else. For a naturally protected climb, this makes sense; that's the way Mother Nature intended it. For a rap-bolted moderate, it seems silly. This route could probably be lead all on clean gear, a little "spicy" in sections but no really big deal, difficulty-wise. That makes more sense to me than the current arbitrary set-up now in place, one that is bound to result in some kind of accident, sooner or later. Luring someone onto a route with closely spaced bolts down low and runouts up higher is irresponsible. Make it clear from the beginning what the route is like. Nov 1, 2004
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9+
So what are the ethics of adding length and bolts to protect said length to an existing climb? Seems to me it would be the same as adding a "second pitch" and if the climb were a sport climb, it wouldn't change the existing climbing or the nature of the route, it would just add an additional length to it. For my own part, if I had not sent a line to the top of something and someone wanted to add bolts to it to lengthen it, if it already had bolts, then I wouldn't have any question about it at all. Is there an ethic or standard regarding this that I am unaware of? Or could someone (in this case Greg) feel comfortable and beyond ethical qualms in adding another bolt and 15' of climbing to a different set of anchors and call it a hard extension? Nov 1, 2004
Greg Hand
Golden, CO
Greg Hand   Golden, CO
Gary, I never said the runout was "pointless". I said the anchors were located in a pointless spot. You do the runout and stand on a ledge and clip a bolt. Then you climb about another 5 feet of nothing difficult and then clip the anchors above your head on an overhanging wall. The climbing from the ledge to the anchors adds nothing to the climb other than make a 50 meter rope not to reach the ground. I would like to have seen it extended another 15 feet above the current anchors to add another crux and have a second set of anchors at the ledge to facilitate getting to the ground. Nov 1, 2004
Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
Gary Schmidt   Boulder, CO
I found this route to be a good deal of fun. For me the opening sequence was quite tricky, even for 5.9 and from then on quite easy. In MHO the run-out is not "pointless" (thought it did catch me by surprise) because it adds some spice to an easy section of climbing. Oct 30, 2004
George Bell
Boulder, CO
  5.9+
George Bell   Boulder, CO
  5.9+
I wouldn't be upset if a bolt was added by whoever put up the route. The runout, in my opinion, is only about 5.6-5.7, and it seems unlikely to me if you can lead the 5.9 crux you would fall on a 5.6. I can think of 10 other sport climbs I have found more terrifying due to large gaps between bolts. Oct 26, 2004
Greg Hand
Golden, CO
Greg Hand   Golden, CO
Peter,

I certainly would not object to another bolt in the runout area. This is not Jules Verne we are talking about. I am not sure why people who object to bolts even climb at Animal World. It is a moderately enjoyable route and I think Dan should extend it another 20 feet.The anchors are in a rather pointless location. Oct 26, 2004
Clearly outlines the difference between the way a sport climber approaches a route and the way a trad climber would. A lot of routes bolted on lead are runout because the first ascentionist only placed a bolt where he could get a stance and where he deemed it necessary. There are a lot of bolted routes that are traditionally bolted and therefore runout on easier ground or where the FA couldn't get a stance or an aid placement no matter how meager. Solid Gold in J-tree comes to mind; Figures on a Landscape, too. The way it is bolted can sometimes full affect the character of a route. Even when a route is bolted one should read the route for runouts, difficulty of climbing near the runout, etc. Thinking for oneself and not assuming the first ascentionist cared about me or my safety is an important part of being a safe and competent climber. No matter how hard you pull. Oct 26, 2004
Peter, climbing is inhenrently dangerous and unpredictable.

If you start the route without trad gear and then notice the run out (like I did) you have two choices: run it out (as you and I did) or get lowered and you lose a biner.

Otherwise we would need to bolt all the run outs in the Flatirons, too....

At least now, if one reads the description on this site, you know there is a scary run out and that you may need gear.

Caveat Emptor

WT Oct 26, 2004
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
  5.9
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
  5.9
My point is that a climber can look at this route at the bottom, think, OK this is safe, then find out, quite a bit higher, that a 20-25 foot runout is mandatory. The next step is go for it or climb back down. Why bother putting in the bolts in the first place? Oct 26, 2004
George Bell
Boulder, CO
  5.9+
George Bell   Boulder, CO
  5.9+
I agree, the route did not seem overly dangerous to me. The runout part is quite a bit easier than the crux, and you can always bring a stopper or small cam. Oct 25, 2004
I'm in favor of leaving the route as is. If someone is uncomfortable with the route in its current state, then don't climb it. And, as someone mentioned, there are gear options. And, please, don't lecture me on this being "sport climbing area" and no one brings gear. I do agree that a bolt 3 feet below the anchor after a substantial runout seems strange. Oct 25, 2004
I believe that Dan Hare equipped this route, and I suspect that he wouldn't object to adding a bolt or two. Oct 25, 2004
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
  5.9
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
  5.9
I did this last weekend and would like to suggest that it be retrobolted. The bolts are very close down low and then very far apart up high. The gear you can place is OK but not located in line with the bolts (bring double ropes?) and the last bolt is barely three feet below the anchor. If the equipper could identify him or herself and explain why the route was put up this way, that would be helpful. Otherwise the route should be fixed, before somebody gets hurt on it. Oct 25, 2004
George Bell
Boulder, CO
  5.9+
George Bell   Boulder, CO
  5.9+
The opening moves of this sucker are tricky to figure out, it seemed to us the easiest way is not really where the bolt is. You can stand on a flake to clip the bolt, but then you have to somehow go back left, maybe even retreating to the ground and starting farther left. From the flake, we traversed and then cranked straight up; this would be a pretty scary sequence without the bolt protecting you ...

The runout up high was indeed noticed! It does seem odd when there are 3 bolts in like 10' and then a significant gap, then one more and another 4' higher are the anchors. Sep 19, 2004
Greg Hand
Golden, CO
Greg Hand   Golden, CO
Chris, I too led this during high winds, and I also became quite "animated"! Jul 28, 2004
Chris Archer
  5.9
Chris Archer  
  5.9
An enjoyable pitch that would rate 2 stars if not for the pointless runout. Exciting in high winds. Jul 28, 2004