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Routes in Animal World

Aardvark T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Animal Instinct S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Animal Magnetism S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Animal Riots Activist S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Animation S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Automatic Choke T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Balance, The T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Beast Food Left S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Beast Food Right S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blame it on a Rush of Blood to the Head T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Blockhead S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cannabis Sportiva T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Closer To God S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Cold Snap T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crack Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cujo Tranquilizer S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Days of Future Passed aka Our Future Has Passed S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dihedral T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Evolution Revolution S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Familiar Strangers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Feeding The Beast (aka Beast Food) T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fifth Destiny, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Fifth World, The T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Free Willie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Geritol Generation T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Global Gorilla S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gull Whackers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hands of Destiny S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Hope and Pray T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Is It Ready Yet...Moe S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Isn't Life Strange S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Joint Venture S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Krakatoa T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Laurel & Hardy Meet Abbott & Costello S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lazy Day S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lovely to See You T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Melancholy Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
New Beginnings S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nice To Be Here S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Old Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Piles of Trials S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pit Bull Prowser S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Reversal Roof S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c V7 7A+
Ride My See-saw S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Split Personality S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Strange Times T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sundog S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Talking Out Of Turn S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Threshold Of A Dream S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Triple Play T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tuesday Afternoon S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unfamiliar Strangers S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
We Don't Do Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wine and Roses T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Greg Hand and Bob D'Antonio
Page Views: 17,832 total, 88/month
Shared By: Peter Franzen on Apr 25, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

A classic sport climb on the Lower Animal World crag, the route lies on the wall on the far right face of the lower Animal World rock. Well-protected moves on jugs lead up an ever-steeper wall to a fun mantle move just below the anchors.

Protection

Draws for 6 bolts and a 4 bolt anchor.
Ed Krejcik
Broomfield, CO
  5.10d
Ed Krejcik   Broomfield, CO
  5.10d
Did this today for the first time. I admit that I did it with the bolts pre-clipped, but it still felt it was kinda soft for the grade. Compare this to Supernatural across the creek at Avalon at 10d. Supernatural is harder, just saying.... It is Bocan after all.... Sep 30, 2017
Logan Collins
Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Logan Collins   Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Very fun route. The crux for me was clipping the last bolt, and then that mantel was so awkward for me. I tried the "beached whale move", but that mantel is too small to make any progress upwards. I eventually fell and then started from directly below the last bolt and made the final move up to the last hold before the anchors. I thought it was going to be a crimp, but it was an OMG jug.

I also did not see any blocks marked with an X.... Did it fall down or did I just miss it? Jul 17, 2017
D. Scott Clark
Boulder
  5.11a PG13
D. Scott Clark   Boulder
  5.11a PG13
I disagree that this is nicely protected. Not an issue for me, but I'd imagine someone breaking into 11s this could get super heady. I'm surprised that for how much traffic this route gets that the ancient looking spinner bolts have not been replaced. Also, isn't it time to remove the "x" on the block. It's been yarded on by all sizes of people and has yet to move. Cruel joke to say the best hold on the route is off, just because. Jun 30, 2017
James Cranston
Boulder, CO
James Cranston   Boulder, CO
I left a draw (Petzl Spirit) on the last bolt before the anchors on this - it got too dark and I had to lower because no headlamp :/

I left the draw on September 22, 2016 in the evening. I don't have a chance to get it today (Th 23rd). If you snag it, could you please send it to me? My cell is 914.364.6142 and my email is jcranston92@gmail.com.

Thanks! Sep 23, 2016
Jake Dickerson
Lander, WY
  5.11a
Jake Dickerson   Lander, WY  
  5.11a
Awesome fun climbing. It totally goes on gear to! RPs and cams to 0.75. It's an exciting unprotected traverse until you clip the chains! Feb 26, 2016
Greg Miller
  5.10
Greg Miller  
  5.10
This makes for a sweet trad line for those wanting to not use the bolts. Offset cams are nice, a #3 Camalot protects the traverse and mantle up and left and the beginning of traverse. Aug 1, 2015
Skyler B
Fort Collins, CO
Skyler B   Fort Collins, CO
Has anybody climbed the bulge in between Free Willie and Days of Future Past? It looks like a really cool sequence off of a foothold on Free Willie to more small crimps. I would love to hear if others have done this line! Mar 21, 2015
Kevin Gillest
Arvada, CO
  5.11a
Kevin Gillest   Arvada, CO
  5.11a
B. Smith
Denver, CO
 
B. Smith   Denver, CO
 
I am 6' tall and had no issue with the first reach, but it felt a little like cheating. I was able to move around the "X" block with no problem. On a less cool note, I did the "beached whale" style finish and then pulled on the anchor. Not my best moment, but I was pumped. Great climb! Mar 16, 2014
goingUp
over here
  5.11a
goingUp   over here
  5.11a
Great route and incredibly sustained. The big flake marked with an x seems fairly stable (epoxy?); however, making those traverse moves without the use of it seems to make the finishing moves substantially more difficult (still very doable). Either way, a must do! Jun 26, 2013
John Dubya  
 
Bolt 5 right below the traverse right is looking pretty beat up. Jun 21, 2013
Ben Hall
Boulder, Colorado
 
Ben Hall   Boulder, Colorado
 
Best warm-up in town! Feb 14, 2013
Tyler Currie
Boulder, CO
Tyler Currie   Boulder, CO
Climbed FW yesterday. The anchors chains are getting worn, apparently from too many people TRing directly and lowering off. Jun 8, 2012
noah gostout
Iqaluit, Nunavut
noah gostout   Iqaluit, Nunavut
Dropped one of my Evolv Talons at the base and left it last night (8/8/11). I went back to get it, but it was gone. If you found it, I'd really like it back. It was brand new! noah.gostout@gmail.com Aug 9, 2011
This climb is super pumpy on lead. I have never done the mantel, I just put a heel up then THROW to a left hand jug, or if I can't make it, there is a good sloper there that I work with then pump. Stand up, and you're done. There is a cool little dyno in it as well, which totally makes the climb. I'm 5'6". Jun 29, 2010
John Kearney
Boulder, CO
John Kearney   Boulder, CO
I did this route on gear today (looking for a little adventure, and definitely got it!). I was wondering if anyone else has done that before?

PS. I'm not proposing to tear the bolts out, I definitely think they should be kept in, this route is too fun to exclude it from people without a rack. Apr 8, 2010
Greg Hand
Golden, CO
Greg Hand   Golden, CO
Kevin,
When I first TRed the line before placing the bolts, I did the "beached whale" move when the feet cut loose on the traverse. Hence the name. Jul 14, 2008
Kevin Neilson
Boulder
Kevin Neilson   Boulder
I've always been confused as to why this is called "Free Willie". The movie to which the name refers was called "Free Willy", so am I missing some pun or euphemism besides the "beached whale" allusion? A minor quibble, I know. I've never used the block marked 'X'; is the route easier that way? Avoiding it and using the traverse isn't that hard but seems harder than 10. The difficult part about the traverse is that the feet are fairly nonexistent and you have to commit to the ledge and cut your feet loose. This is the best part of the route and this is the point during which the famed ECB--Euro Chalk Blow--should be executed. For those not familiar with the maneuver: after cutting the feet loose, hang casually with one arm, radiating insousiance, reach back and chalk up, grabbing a fistful of chalk, then blow through your fist to create a chalk cloud. At this point, for best effect, a photographer, preferably situated at the anchors of an adjacent climb, should snap a shot in pure 80's style. Wearing spandex improves the effect. Jul 14, 2008
Greg Hand
Golden, CO
Greg Hand   Golden, CO
We replaced the crux (last) bolt today. Apr 24, 2008
Kat A
Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
Kat A   Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
Thanks to Greg and the "Civil Service Retirement System" for the new bolt anchors.

Short person beta for the getting the hold above the 4th bolt... left heel hook in the rectangular incut; right foot not far from that; left hand on good hold. Then stretch for the jug with right hand. Unless you're brave enough to just dyno for it (I'm not). Oct 20, 2007
Mark Griffin
Boulder, CO
 
Mark Griffin   Boulder, CO
 
Thanks Greg! Anchor is bomber. May 2, 2007
Greg Hand
Golden, CO
Greg Hand   Golden, CO
I fixed the anchor problem by adding 2 bolts with chains.
Funding for this was provided by CSRS. CSRS is Civil Service Retirement System. Oct 2, 2006
Ken Leiden
Boulder, CO
 
Ken Leiden   Boulder, CO
 
I have climbed this route many times doing the beached whale mantle. Today I was short on gas so instead of the mantle I continued the hand traverse to the right where I was able to stand up casually at the right end of the ledge. Highly recommended. Jun 22, 2006
Charlie Fried
New York, NY
  5.11a/b
Charlie Fried   New York, NY
  5.11a/b
This route rocks, I'm 5'4" and had to dyno for the hold above the fourth clip, but I made it. It's a hell of a jump! I couldn't reach the chalked mark up left so I had to do a little crawling myself. The anchors left bolt is kinda weak (I wouldn't TR it from the anchors). Jun 19, 2006
Bruno Hache
Longmont, CO
Bruno Hache   Longmont, CO
A 4 stars and very fun route with an exquisite mantle just before the top anchors. Awesome!
It's a little discrimatory for those that are less than 5'8", at the 4th bolt half way up the climb before the corner break, the move is reachy in nature.

Other than that, it's a must do at Animal World.
Pure fun, I had a blast!
Will do it again, that's for sure! :)

Bruno Jun 3, 2006
SirVato
Boulder
  5.11a
SirVato   Boulder
  5.11a
Awesome route!! The traverse to the anchors was sweet!!! I went to the right and still had to belly flop a bit but, saved the onsight!! May 15, 2006
RE: Free Willie and the crux bolt:

As of May 15, 2005, the hanger at the crux traverse, just under the platform before the anchor, is spinning on the bolt. The bolt looks as if it has wiggled out of the rock a bit. There's a narrow quicklink there now where it looks like somebody bailed out before the anchor.

I fell off the platform moves and the hanger held, but this bolt/hangar should [probably] be replaced.

Also: the infamous flake at this crux has been reinforced with epoxy (had time to look while gritting my teeth avoiding it). After the fall I gave the thing a test pull or two and it seems to be pretty solid. Still, better safe than sorry and there's a couple different ways to get up the thing, so might as well avoid it. Just my two cents.

Thanks. May 18, 2005
I managed to not have to mantel at all. Look up above the shelf thing and reach for a good, postive hold about 4 feet up, sort of on a mini arete.

One of the best routes I've been on in the canyon, simply because of the steepness and bountiful positive holds. Sep 11, 2004
TBlom  
Last time I did this route the block with the X held my 200 lbs. Going from the block then up right to the jug Tony mentions above, you do not have to mantle or belly flop (both of which I tried on my non-onsight). Pretty easy if you trust the block (or the bolts). You can rest in the mungy stuff off left before the crux ending, or stay to the right and make it more direct. Pretty cool way to air out yer ass for sure. Aug 29, 2004
The anchor shuts on Free Willie are beginning to show signs of serious wear. I didn't have any quicklinks with me today -- but two are definitely needed before summer.

PS. There's a new bolted route around the arete about 30' left of Free Willie and 20' right of Jaycene's Dance. It starts up the slightly overhanging left wall of a block-capped, left-facing corner. .9+ (?) past the first two bolts, .9- to the fourth bolt, .7 or so up the slab above (with a 25'-30' runout between the eighth and ninth bolts; small to mid-sized gear optional). 9 bolts total; 80'-90'. Judging by Rolofson's guidebook, the route is a few feet to the right of Familiar Strangers (unless Familiar Strangers has been retrobolted with a new start). [Eds. This is Unfamiliar Strangers.] Mar 31, 2004
Matt Juth
Evergreen
Matt Juth   Evergreen
I'm a short guy, and had no trouble with any of the clips. I couldn't reach that nice jug up top as soon as I would have like though, leaving me to do a 'not quite beached whale' move in order to reach it. Jul 24, 2003
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
I do the same thing, Tony. Further to the right, there is a better right foot; making the high step/heel hook with the left foot easier, and keeps you from stepping over the rope. The jug you speak of is good, and makes the move more elegant than the 'knee step-whale mantle'. Jun 27, 2003
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11a
The mantle up top is easy to the right. I did this yesterday & saw the Xs on the block, so I skipped it and went further right, to the edge of the upper face, just below and to the right of the final anchors. To my surprise, and I mantled up there was a huge, brown, UNCHALKED jug to the right, which made the move somewhat trival if you have the armspan to reach it. I suspect this route derives its name from the "beached whale" move that people do rather than mantle. It's pretty funny to watch, and bound to happen to shorter climbers more often. As for the height-dependency, my 5'4" partner did it, but had to use funkier footwork at the reach to get it, but not dyno at all- look at the slopes be the cracs (sic) to the left and for a good black "eyebrow" sized positive edge just below. This adds a crux to the route, I am sure. Jun 27, 2003
The rock below the first bolt is crumbly and breaks unexpectedly. I know because I broke off a substantial foothold and fell ten feet to the ground and then another fifteen feet into the talus. So, be careful out there! And, I would recommend always wearing a helmet, as they are rather stylish when tumbling through talus. Aug 18, 2002
As of Saturday (7.20.02) someone chalked two "X" marks on the blocky hold that facilitates the mantle to the left (see previous comment). Although I couldn't make the block move, you may want to be sure to pull or push down on the block and not pull outward. Either that or work the mantle up and right to the anchors avoiding the block entirely. Jul 22, 2002
Jeff Lockyer
Canmore, AB
Jeff Lockyer   Canmore, AB
An excellent route for those of us 5'8" and taller. The reach past the 4th clip may almost be a dyno for some, but once past here the last moves will flow together. You can cut right at the matle or reach high for the chalked hold straight above to the left, have fun. I give this route 3 stars. Oct 4, 2001