Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Greg Hand and Moe Hershoff
Page Views: 6,243 total · 47/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Feb 16, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


203 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

The start is the crux and coming out of the upper corner. Clip the first bolt and go left to the arete (crux) and then up the face (loose) to the second bolt...clip the third bolt and then fire up the nice face to the anchor.

Really good route that will get better with more ascents.

Location

About a 125 feet right of Free Willie at a the right end of a long, low overhang.

Protection

Seven bolts to a two bolt anchor.
Paul Hunnicutt
Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Paul Hunnicutt   Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Does this route start on a black face, at a dihedral that could be lead on gear? I placed cams past the first two bolts - though a bush, dirt, and loose rock wasn't all that inspiring (I'm not posting some anti-bolt tirade just clarifying location). The upper section was pretty lichen covered, but with more traffic would be a nice addition to the crag - since there aren't many mid range climbs here. Mar 20, 2008
Paul Hunnicutt
Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Paul Hunnicutt   Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Wrong way??? Well someone forgot to put tape on the holds, so I had to be inventive.

I think you could climb either the face or crack as they are only a few feet apart at the start. Though if you climb the crack you'll want to protect it with gear - the bolts are too far out left to be that useful for protection (until the third bolt).

The crack seemed pretty obvious to me and doing it that way felt 5.9+ overall. Perhaps just 5.9 once the lichen wears away. I didn't do the bolted face start so can't comment on its grade.

Still some loose rock on this one, so keep your belayer aware. Mar 20, 2008
Paul Hunnicutt
Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Paul Hunnicutt   Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Hey I was just asking originally so I could post the photo of the start for everyone...found the description a bit vague and it isn't in any guidebook yet. I wanted to make sure if I was commenting at all I was on the correct route in the database. I was asking for the sake of the next person looking at the site for a nice moderate to climb at Animal World.

IMHO, I'd say this route has two starts...one up a dirty crack...and one a somewhat contrived (but perhaps fun nonetheless) up a face past two bolts to avoid the dirty crack. They both end up at the third bolt. The natural line is up the crack, but since you have bolts to protect the moves out left people can try that also. There is no "wrong way" upwards.

The crack start would also be fun cleaned up a bit. Mar 21, 2008
Bruce Pech
Boulder
  5.9+
Bruce Pech   Boulder
  5.9+
A pleasant warm up with a cool move left around the arete at the 7th bolt. May 20, 2008
Mark Cushman
Cumming, GA
Mark Cushman   Cumming, GA
If it has rained recently, this route will be soaked. May 29, 2008
Crag Dweller
New York, NY
5.10
Crag Dweller   New York, NY
5.10
Fun moves coming around the two corners. Oct 4, 2009
Top Rope Hero
Was Estes Park, now homeless
  5.9
Top Rope Hero   Was Estes Park, now homeless
  5.9
Seems awfully contrived (and wrongheaded) to move OUT of the dihedral/crack at the first bolt, just to rejoin it ten feet later before sending the upper sections. Leave it to Boulder....

At any rate, as of summer, 2011, the crack start seemed clean 'n' friendly enough. And my six-foot frame was easily able to clip all bolts without having to use any gear.

Good, fun warm-up regardless of how you mash these potatoes.... Jul 18, 2011
Greg Hand
Golden, CO
Greg Hand   Golden, CO
If you read the first comment (done 1 month after the first ascent), Paul climbed the corner "though a bush, dirt, and loose rock wasn't all that inspiring". When this route was first done in Feb. 2008, the crack was full of water and ice, hence we bolted the clean dry rock on the left. We came back in April and cleaned the corner to produce the trad route "We Don't Do Crack". The moves following the bolts left are technically more difficult. You can climb the route any way you want. Jul 18, 2011
Paul Donald Andrews
Nederland, Co.
  5.10a
Paul Donald Andrews   Nederland, Co.
  5.10a
Climbed it today and loved it! The route does look kind of funky from the ground. It has cleaned up very nicely. Clip the first bolt and move out left to the arete. IMHO the crux comes after the very long reach (I'm 5'9") to clip the 5th bolt. The thin finger holds push me to give it 10a. The moves out left at the top are spacey and cool. Looks like a harder variation going straight up and over the corner. Thanks, Greg. May 18, 2012
JJR
Boulder, CO
  5.9+
JJR   Boulder, CO
  5.9+
This route is pretty cool IMHO. I'm surprised to see it on here as 10a though, given that the BoCan guidebook by D'antonio calls it 9+, and I'd agree with that. I started up the crack and thought it was fun. Definitely a little tricky in spots, but I wouldn't say the climbing is 10a. Kind of creepy on lead (especially because from the 5th or so bolt, you can't see the next bolt), but if you trust your technique, you should be solid. Creepiest part is coming out onto the face near the anchors, but the hands and feet are all there. I'd recommend doing it if you're in the area. Jun 12, 2012
slim

  5.9
slim    
  5.9
Just barely a one star route. Luckily there is just enough ok climbing to make up for the contrived climbing, sections of low quality rock, and the lame, hidden 5th bolt. Oct 8, 2012
Matt Simon
Boulder, CO
 
Matt Simon   Boulder, CO
 
Don't know what you mean about the "hidden" fifth bolt - it was right where it should be.

Thought this was a very fun route. Moving out of the corner at the top was a nice way to finish. Nov 18, 2013
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
  5.10a
Rob Davies UK   Cheshire, UK
  5.10a
Moving low on to arĂȘte by bolt #1 is hard (as in photo in guide), but there are also several interesting moves higher up. Oct 10, 2015
Paul Hunnicutt
Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Paul Hunnicutt   Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Why edit the original comments so it looks like I'm having a conversation with myself. Leave the original and now deleted "you went the wrong way!" comment in there. Oct 25, 2015
S. Neoh  
Very good route, deserves more than 2 stars. Below the first bolt and coming out of the upper corner are the cruxes, IMHO. It is easy to be led astray by chalked "sucker" holds in that corner (which happened to me). Even so, this is harder, more techy, and more balancy/insecure compared to Unfamiliar Strangers (.9+) to its left and The Tower over at Avalon. Sep 3, 2017
Matt B
Boulder, CO
  5.9
Matt B   Boulder, CO
  5.9
Between the fourth and fifth bolt is a very large juggy flake that sounds pretty hollow. It seemed just "OK", but I wouldn't yank too hard on it or kick it or anything, because it sounds sketchy to me. It's fairly easy to avoid this large flake by traversing slightly left on a good rail and standing up on the ledge that it is partially connected to. Stay safe out there!

Also, this route is just OK. It's got a couple interesting moves, but the awkward moves at the start and the low rock quality really mar this climb. Oct 1, 2018