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Is It Ready Yet...Moe
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2.1 from 193
votes
Routes in Lower Animal World
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Aardvark T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Animal Riots Activist S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Animation S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Automatic Choke T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Beast Food Left S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Beast Food Right S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Blockhead S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Cannabis Sportiva T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Cold Snap T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Crack Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Days of Future Passed aka Our Future Has Passed S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dihedral T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Familiar Strangers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Feeding The Beast (aka Beast Food) T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Free Willie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Geritol Generation T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Gull Whackers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Is It Ready Yet...Moe S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Joint Venture S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Laurel & Hardy Meet Abbott & Costello S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lazy Day S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Lovely to See You T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Melancholy Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Nice To Be Here S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Old Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Piles of Trials S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Reversal Roof S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c V7 7A+ |
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Threshold Of A Dream S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Triple Play T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tuesday Afternoon S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Unfamiliar Strangers S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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We Don't Do Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Sport, 80 ft |
| FA: | Bob D'Antonio, Greg Hand and Moe Hershoff |
| Page Views: | 6,095 total · 48/month |
| Shared By: | Ron Olsen on Feb 16, 2008 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update
Details
2018 update: all Boulder Canyon closures have been lifted!
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
2018 update: as of April 6, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are OPEN. Eagle Rock remains closed.
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
2018 update: as of April 6, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are OPEN. Eagle Rock remains closed.
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Boulder, CO
Boulder, CO
I think you could climb either the face or crack as they are only a few feet apart at the start. Though if you climb the crack you'll want to protect it with gear - the bolts are too far out left to be that useful for protection (until the third bolt).
The crack seemed pretty obvious to me and doing it that way felt 5.9+ overall. Perhaps just 5.9 once the lichen wears away. I didn't do the bolted face start so can't comment on its grade.
Still some loose rock on this one, so keep your belayer aware. Mar 20, 2008
Boulder, CO
IMHO, I'd say this route has two starts...one up a dirty crack...and one a somewhat contrived (but perhaps fun nonetheless) up a face past two bolts to avoid the dirty crack. They both end up at the third bolt. The natural line is up the crack, but since you have bolts to protect the moves out left people can try that also. There is no "wrong way" upwards.
The crack start would also be fun cleaned up a bit. Mar 21, 2008
Boulder, CO
Cumming, GA
New York, NY
Was Estes Park, now homeless
At any rate, as of summer, 2011, the crack start seemed clean 'n' friendly enough. And my six-foot frame was easily able to clip all bolts without having to use any gear.
Good, fun warm-up regardless of how you mash these potatoes.... Jul 18, 2011
Golden, CO
Nederland, Co.
Boulder, CO
Boulder, CO
Thought this was a very fun route. Moving out of the corner at the top was a nice way to finish. Nov 18, 2013
Cheshire, UK
Boulder, CO