Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Bob D & Greg Hand
Page Views: 2,718 total · 20/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Feb 20, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

90 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details


The crux is getting established over the roof.


This is about 100 feet right of Free Willie at the right side of a low overhang. Lower from a two bolt anchor.


[Ten] draws and a long sling for a horn.


Aeon Aki

Aeon Aki    
After the roof this line continues up a short section of bad rock, and has a very large and very suspect flake on it. I avoided it completely after hear a discomforting echo ringing through the bowels of this block. Use it cautiously if you must. Apr 12, 2008
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11- PG13
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11- PG13
I thought that the first clip was a little high to get a draw on from a good stance. The feet were shedding on me, which made for some nervousness, given that a fall before the first clip is a 'non-option.' The grade felt about right, probably 11-, but I missed the mono/duo pocket, as it was pointed out to me later. Others said it was easier with that (11a?). It could be good climbing once it cleans up more. May 1, 2008
Dean Cool
Boulder, CO
Dean Cool   Boulder, CO
This climb is a one move wonder. Once over the roof continue up the bolts for a 5.9 grade. The rock above the roof is flaky and the rock above that is a bit dirty. Jan 31, 2009
Matthew Kennedy
boulder, co
Matthew Kennedy   boulder, co
Buddy of mine snapped a large hold off of the lip of the roof. I dodged that falling bastard then decided to hop on the route. I had not been on the route prior to the breakage, but seems it could have gotten a bit harder. The route is fairly loose overall and I would not be surprised to see another get buggered out by unintentionally removing more rock. Remains still, a one-ish move wonder. Apr 12, 2009
Bear Creek, CO
percious   Bear Creek, CO
I think this is a good route, and while it may not be 5.11 for the duration, the top section still ticks in at 5.10c/d. I think the first bolt is way too high off the ground, so consider a stick clip. The problem is that the while the first bolt is just out of reach of clipping from the ground, the fall from this ledge would likely send you to the hospital. Would the FA agree to the addition of a bolt lower down to avoid this possibility? Apr 30, 2009
Brent Apgar
Out of the Loop
Brent Apgar   Out of the Loop
I'm going to contradict Matt K. The grapefruit sized hold I yarded off and threw at his head (thanks Matt for still catching me) was from the alternate L hand start to this route, Tuesday Afternoon. Mar 13, 2010
Kai Huang
Aurora, CO
Kai Huang   Aurora, CO
If you take a bit of falls or hangs at the roof, where the crux is, pay attention to your draw. When you hang, if the gate is facing left, it will likely open the biner for you. When you hang, repeatedly, the rock will likely shred your sling. My buddy's draw was shredded almost all the way through. May 1, 2010
Greg Hand
Golden, CO
Greg Hand   Golden, CO
I added a first bolt today, so a stick clip is not necessary. So the bolt count is now 10. Aug 9, 2011
Dean Kure
Dean Kure  
Huge pieces fell of right at the start for me and then super choss pile halfway up. You can avoid the mess in the middle, but look for the nastiness. Not really recommending it. May 11, 2012
Ken Duncan
Ft Collins, CO
Ken Duncan   Ft Collins, CO
Looks like a crucial foot hold broke off at the start making the route much harder. Sep 12, 2015
Rui Ferreira
Boulder, CO
Rui Ferreira   Boulder, CO
All the holds at the roof are solid now, the upper face has some good movement, and I did not find a loose flake. May 23, 2016
Mark E Dixon
Sprezzatura, Someday
Mark E Dixon   Sprezzatura, Someday
Maybe I'm just feeble, but I think the move over the roof is pretty darn hard unless you have at least a 68 inch wingspan. Which I don't. Jul 1, 2016
So this route is hard, I think the moves to pull the roof are easily V3/V4. I'd give this 11+, and I'm usually a sandbagger. The upper section is .10a/b, and is still fun, but agreed there is suspect rock. Tread lightly and smart. First bolt is placed perfectly, no issues clipping this safely without a stick clip, and I'm 5'9". Sep 26, 2016
Avoid it.

To me, the first three bolts of this route are legitimately harder than the 12a Days of Future Passed to the left. Once you make it through that, the middle section of rock is extremely chossy. Plenty of chances to put a hand/foot in the wrong place and break something loose. Seemed like half the stuff I checked sounded precariously hollow.

The top of the route is not difficult as someone else commented, it's just awkward and not fun. I'm surprised others have rated this any more than 2 stars. 6 days ago