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Routes in Lower Animal World

Aardvark T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Animal Riots Activist S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Animation S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Automatic Choke T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Beast Food Left S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Beast Food Right S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blockhead S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cannabis Sportiva T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cold Snap T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crack Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Days of Future Passed aka Our Future Has Passed S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dihedral T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Familiar Strangers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Feeding The Beast (aka Beast Food) T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Free Willie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Geritol Generation T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Gull Whackers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Is It Ready Yet...Moe S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Joint Venture S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Laurel & Hardy Meet Abbott & Costello S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lazy Day S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lovely to See You T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Melancholy Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nice To Be Here S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Old Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Piles of Trials S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Reversal Roof S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c V7 7A+
Threshold Of A Dream S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Triple Play T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tuesday Afternoon S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unfamiliar Strangers S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
We Don't Do Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Chris Archer, Sarah Spaulding - 31 July 2008
Page Views: 2,235 total · 18/month
Shared By: Chris Archer on Sep 13, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


29 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

Climb Joint Venture for 2 bolts then move up and right following a thin crack that leads to a difficult traverse right to a stem rest in the corner. Move back out left and climb through the roofs via some wild, inobvious moves and finish on the face above.

Location

The route starts on Joint Venture, just left of Jaycene's Dance.

Protection

12 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

Wait a tick, so the dihedral is "on" for stemming/rest below the roof crux? Has the direct line, minus the stem been done? Seems more direct and harder for sure. Jul 1, 2009
Chris Archer  
 
It has been done without using the obvious stem. 12c/d. Jul 1, 2009
Thanks Chris. Good to know...thought I was losing a step. Although, the next move after hugging the block seemed really hard too. You don't continue to stem, right? Great line. Jul 1, 2009
Chris Archer  
 
The stemming is over after the traverse right. Once you step back left the business begins, but there are several Rifle-like moves that are less than obvious that make it pretty reasonable. Glad you like the route, Mike. Jul 2, 2009
Joshua Merriam
Boulder, CO
  5.12c
Joshua Merriam   Boulder, CO
  5.12c
The crack in the corner, and everything to the right of the corner should be considered off. Anything else disrespects the roof.

It's a great roof, albeit squeezed. The first 2 or 3 bolts are the same as Joint Venture. Then moving out right into the big roof, there's some powerful shouldery moves, a long reach or jump to the matchable crimp out left, and some good knee tricknology to surmount the final roof section. I'd like to add another bolt after standing up above the roof instead of climbing the rest of that arete to the upper anchor I'd make an (optional) midway anchor. Felt something like 12+. Jul 15, 2009
George Squibb
Boulder, CO
  5.12c
George Squibb   Boulder, CO
  5.12c
Better than it looks, not as contrived as it looks, more independent than it looks...lots of quality movement in a small package; clearly, the corner should not be used...and it's not really that tempting...it's hard enough to get pumped in BoCan as it is. Full Disclosure: Chris is a friend of mine. Jul 17, 2009
Kai Huang
Aurora, CO
  5.12+
Kai Huang   Aurora, CO
  5.12+
I am also glad to find out that without the stemming is 12+. I didn't think the stemming was on to begin with, got on it, figured out my beta, and thought it was most definitely harder than 12b. Really, really fun route. Rifle-like climbing on granite. Found both left and right knee bars, and this time they fit my leg size. I was really excited to find them. Nov 8, 2009
Joshua Merriam
Boulder, CO
  5.12c
Joshua Merriam   Boulder, CO
  5.12c
The flake/sidepull feature just before the first roof broke off this morning. The BLOCK hit me in the HEAD, but luckily it left a usable feature when it departed. After regaining my wits, and cleaning up the blood, we checked to see and the route still goes. Maybe it's solid 12c now. Apr 8, 2010
Train4life
Boulder, CO
  5.12b
Train4life   Boulder, CO
  5.12b
Without stemming is so awesome! Rifle style, tons of kneebar beta! 12c/d is definitely the grade if you don't use the wall to the right. That being said, either way you climb this rig it is super fun and has some classic knee bars. I counted 3 in about 10 feet! :) I thought stemming was off, also, until the guy that bolted it came up and started telling me about it! Jan 7, 2014
eddie m
  5.12b
eddie m  
  5.12b
Not that sweet but kinda cool. Considerably harder in my opinion than Piles of Trials. Worth doing if you're there IMO. Jun 27, 2015

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