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Routes in Animal World

Aardvark T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Animal Instinct S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Animal Magnetism S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Animal Riots Activist S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Animation S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Automatic Choke T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Balance, The T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Beast Food Left S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Beast Food Right S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blame it on a Rush of Blood to the Head T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Blockhead S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cannabis Sportiva T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Closer To God S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Cold Snap T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crack Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cujo Tranquilizer S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Days of Future Passed aka Our Future Has Passed S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dihedral T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Evolution Revolution S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Familiar Strangers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Feeding The Beast (aka Beast Food) T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fifth Destiny, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Fifth World, The T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Free Willie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Geritol Generation T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Global Gorilla S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gull Whackers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hands of Destiny S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Hope and Pray T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Is It Ready Yet...Moe S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Isn't Life Strange S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Joint Venture S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Krakatoa T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Laurel & Hardy Meet Abbott & Costello S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lazy Day S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lovely to See You T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Melancholy Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
New Beginnings S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nice To Be Here S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Old Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Piles of Trials S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pit Bull Prowser S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Reversal Roof S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c V7 7A+
Ride My See-saw S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Split Personality S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Strange Times T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sundog S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Talking Out Of Turn S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Threshold Of A Dream S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Triple Play T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tuesday Afternoon S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unfamiliar Strangers S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
We Don't Do Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wine and Roses T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Bob D and Greg Hand
Page Views: 3,721 total, 31/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Mar 20, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


54 Opinions

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

The crux is a series of hard technical moves up the arete and over the small bulge.

Great moves on very solid rock...maybe one of the best routes at Animal World.

Will be a classic.

Keeping with Moody Blues theme...the name comes from a classic album from them.


Location

Start ten feet right of Days of Future Passed...climb up to a small overhang and crank a strenuous move to gain the slab....continue straight up the arete to the anchors.

Protection

Nine clips to a two bolt-ring anchor.

Photos

Crackhead
  5.12a
Crackhead  
  5.12a
Thought this was actually a really nice line, but it definitely felt quite a bit harder than its 12- neighbor (which feels more like .11). I'd give this .12a. Managed to tear off a chalky but pretty useless hold under the roof at the 1st bolt. Non-intuitive moves through the first roof are hard but fun and very different, it feels like tufa climbing at times. The finger locks at the second roof crux are outstanding, and the arete/heel hook exit is great.

  • **Everyone please do your best to not climb any higher on the sketchy bolted in flake piece than the finger locks. It doesn't make the route any easier and is dangerous.***
Sep 26, 2016
Aeon Aki    
 
A chossy, awkward pull over the initial roof to a very enjoyable slab/arete sequence to hold your breath watch where you step "hollow" sounding jug and flake pulling. If you've climbed everything else at Animal World then at least you have an excuse to get on it. Nov 15, 2008
SAL
broomdigiddy
  5.11d
SAL   broomdigiddy
  5.11d
Nice Bob. I will be up there today. I'll give a look.
Thanks for the hard work.
Cheers
SAL Jun 24, 2008
Jesus Cristo Bob! I applaud your hard work as I have done the same. I drilled two 10 inch deep holes and glued two threaded rods into them. I then camouflaged the holes with sand. The rock was a little hollow and since the bolt and hanger that keeps you off the ledge needed to be in that section of rock I figured I would just make sure it was bomb proof. What a pain in the butt. Some routes as well as those who trust that our bolt placements are in solid rock deserve the extra effort to make them safe. Jun 23, 2008
SAL
broomdigiddy
  5.11d
SAL   broomdigiddy
  5.11d
I guess I just wanted to validate the danger of the block and see if you would mind. I was up there with Doug Madara yesterday and did not really want his visit to be a stone trundling bash. :)
We will look into getting up there and cleaning that block. It would be a major bummer for that to dislodge with the amount of folks that climb there.
Thanks for the additions up there.
SAL Jun 22, 2008
SAL
broomdigiddy
  5.11d
SAL   broomdigiddy
  5.11d
Great line.
But rip that flake out.

Bob.
Come on...
So two people of have yarded on that thing. It is only a matter of time before that thing kills some one below. I climbed the route as you intended Bob, but I scoped that flake out. It is pretty scary in my book. It should have been part of the cleaning process. We all know how much traffic these routes will get.
Much Respect.
SAL Jun 21, 2008
Terry Murphy and I toproped and scrubbed this route a couple of years ago but never bolted it cos we couldn't figure out how to remove the offending flake. Granted it's fine just using the fingerlock at the bottom, but as Dave said the flake kinda leads you on. I did shove a block off about 5 foot from the bottom of the route and then watched in horror as it accelerated down the slope, jumped the fence and barreled across the highway about 15 seconds before a car drove by. Ughhh. Nighttime trundling seemed like the best option to remove the flake safely, but we never managed to get it together. Jun 19, 2008
Much more enjoyable now that the flake has been secured. Jun 18, 2008
Mark Ferguson
  5.11c
Mark Ferguson  
  5.11c
Thanks Bob for bolting this. It is a decent route, and after doing it a second time I like it even more. I placed 2 Xs with chalk on the flake up high. Please be VERY careful with this flake and use it for nothing more than a low finger lock. From this lock, you can bust out right to good face holds. If this thing goes, it could make it to the road. May 10, 2008
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11+
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11+
Done with the direct start this is the best of the new routes, and pretty good over all for where and what it is. The 3 star rating assigned is accounting for what I believe it will be like once it cleans up a little more. At present, some of the small chips for feet were still grinding down and I snapped a good bit off of one of them. It actually got bigger now. With a little more srcaping and brushing, it will be a good route.

The flake up high sure seems like a death flake to me. I was scared to go any higher then the finger-locks down low once I looked up at it. It looked like a good hard pull from the top or a solid whack with a sledge hammer would probably dislodge the whole thing, but it might go all the way to the road and kill someone... there or on the way down.

I hope it won't, but my recent experinece at A.W. on the new routes has been less than stellar. I pulled a 200lb flake off of the 11 and several holds off of the 12 to the right. May 9, 2008
Steve Annecone
boulder
Steve Annecone   boulder
We did a start directly below the arete, rather than coming in from Days of Future Passed. Is this a new variation? The first bolt however was missing a hanger, but a nut cable can be used on the stud and yellow and red Aliens can back this up also until you reach over the roof and clip the 2nd bolt. Pretty good climbing overall and the direct start adds some more 5.11 down low. May 1, 2008
Justin Roth  
 
This route is very good. together with the two routes to its left, you have a great little chunk of climbing in a concentrated area. However, be warned that this and many of other routes at the upper Animal World crag have a lot of loose / chossy rock. Most of this climb is clean, but a large, angular flake and a loafy jug up top look to be possible missile material. Knock on flakes and jugs before you weight them, and try not to yard out on anything that isn't bombtruck. I guess. Anyway, like I said, sweet route. Apr 27, 2008