Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Greg Hand, Bob D, Kent Lugbill, & Dan Brockway
Page Views: 5,236 total · 38/month
Shared By: Greg Hand on Feb 14, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


155 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / Update Details

Description

The crux is at the 5th bolt. Then follow good edges to the anchors shared with Geritol Generation (now deleted from the database).

Location

This is about 150 feet right of Free Willie and just left of Geritol Generation (now deleted from the database).

Protection

Seven bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

Aeon Aki

  5.9+
Aeon Aki    
  5.9+
This route is pretty dirty right now. The tricky crux at the third bolt may get easier after a few laps and will certainly become more enjoyable. I wouldn't have minded a bolt somewhere before the first one as stepping up to clip it is awkward and could be dangerous for a short leader hanging draws. Apr 12, 2008
Brad Schildt
Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Brad Schildt   Boulder, CO
  5.9+
I agree with Aeon that clipping the first bolt is a bit runout, as well as it being a long way from the 4th bolt to the anchors. A decent warm-up for the routes above, which are amazing! Apr 24, 2008
Greg Hand
Golden, CO
  5.9
Greg Hand   Golden, CO
  5.9
A bolt was added to eliminate the runout to the anchors. It was certainly out of character with the climbing. Apr 29, 2008
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.8
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.8
Slimy when wet, dirty when not. Yucky. May 18, 2008
I think it's a nice route - yes, some dirt on ledges but still interesting moves and fun crux. Agree with comments about first bolt. Would be a sketchy clip for the short leader. Jul 3, 2008
Paul Hunnicutt
Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Paul Hunnicutt   Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Maybe not the best route for someone who's limit is around 5.9 to lead. You probably could sink some gear in before the first bolt and after the third there is a crack to the right that would take some finger/mid sized pieces....though it looked a bit like a flake. Nov 21, 2009
Jon Marek
Spearfish, SD
  5.9+
Jon Marek   Spearfish, SD
  5.9+
This route is way more tricky than it looks from the ground. Jun 12, 2011
Jon Marek
Spearfish, SD
  5.9+
Jon Marek   Spearfish, SD
  5.9+
Much harder than it looks from the ground. Jun 12, 2011
Poorly bolted. There is still lots of loose rock prior to 1st. bolt. My partner cratered when a well chalked up hold pulled just as he was pulling onto the big ledge below 1st bolt. He got a nice cut on his head and cheek and bruised his heel bone but no other damage done. To his credit, he led the route about 15 min. later. The climbing itself was pretty good for as long as it lasted, which wasn't long. Jul 26, 2011
Greg Hand
Golden, CO
  5.9
Greg Hand   Golden, CO
  5.9
I added 2 bolts at the start of this route today. The first to protect getting onto the ledge, and the second to protect shorter climbers getting to the original first bolt. Aug 9, 2011
Thanks. May 26, 2013
A. Bandos
Broomfield, CO
A. Bandos   Broomfield, CO
Surprising that no one is mentioning the fun/strange traverse right about halfway up. Sep 8, 2013
jamandbees
Boulder, Colorado
  5.9
jamandbees   Boulder, Colorado
  5.9
That traverse that AndBan mentions is the most amazing piece of this route. It's really unusual, required a lot of thought to get through. Sep 9, 2013
Carl Schaefer
Boulder, CO
 
Carl Schaefer   Boulder, CO
 
It has cleaned up nicely at this point... definitely trickier than it looks.
The 2nd edition of the D'Antonio guidebook has the wrong bolt count (5), I counted eight. May 30, 2017
Ed Krejcik
Broomfield, CO
  5.9+
Ed Krejcik   Broomfield, CO
  5.9+
I'd say that if you do this route straight up, it's probably 9+ and a little pumpy...for Bocan.... Sep 30, 2017
Chris Neal
Fort Collins, CO
Chris Neal   Fort Collins, CO
I lost a couple black sweaters here today. I think I left them draped on a bush at the bottom of this route. I'll be back in Boulder this Monday (March 5th) - if there's any chance I could pick them up then or another time, I'd be very appreciative. Mar 3, 2018
Weston Hamilton
Denver, CO
Weston Hamilton   Denver, CO
I did this climb straight up keeping the bolts to my left and finally mounting the arete. It seemed stiffer than 5.9. If you go up the to the left of the bolts (by passing the corner) as one of the pictures show, i think that is more 5.9- territory. Anyway, although difficult to lead how I did, it is a good powerful set of moves going directly up from the initial ledge, but a lead fall would be bad news. Jun 12, 2018