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Routes in Animal World

Aardvark T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Animal Instinct S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Animal Magnetism S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Animal Riots Activist S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Animation S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Automatic Choke T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Balance, The T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Beast Food Left S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Beast Food Right S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blame it on a Rush of Blood to the Head T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Blockhead S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cannabis Sportiva T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Closer To God S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Cold Snap T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crack Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cujo Tranquilizer S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Days of Future Passed aka Our Future Has Passed S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dihedral T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Evolution Revolution S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Familiar Strangers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Feeding The Beast (aka Beast Food) T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fifth Destiny, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Fifth World, The T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Free Willie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Geritol Generation T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Global Gorilla S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gull Whackers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hands of Destiny S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Hope and Pray T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Is It Ready Yet...Moe S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Isn't Life Strange S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Joint Venture S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Krakatoa T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Laurel & Hardy Meet Abbott & Costello S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lazy Day S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lovely to See You T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Melancholy Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
New Beginnings S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nice To Be Here S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Old Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Piles of Trials S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pit Bull Prowser S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Reversal Roof S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c V7 7A+
Ride My See-saw S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Split Personality S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Strange Times T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sundog S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Talking Out Of Turn S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Threshold Of A Dream S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Triple Play T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tuesday Afternoon S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unfamiliar Strangers S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
We Don't Do Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wine and Roses T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Greg Hand, Bob D, Kent Lugbill, & Dan Brockway
Page Views: 4,738 total, 40/month
Shared By: Greg Hand on Feb 14, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

The crux is at the 5th bolt. Then follow good edges to the anchors shared with Geritol Generation (now deleted from the database).

Location

This is about 150 feet right of Free Willie and just left of Geritol Generation (now deleted from the database).

Protection

Seven bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

Ed Krejcik
Broomfield, CO
  5.9+
Ed Krejcik   Broomfield, CO
  5.9+
I'd say that if you do this route straight up, it's probably 9+ and a little pumpy...for Bocan.... Sep 30, 2017
Carl Schaefer
Boulder, CO
 
Carl Schaefer   Boulder, CO
 
It has cleaned up nicely at this point... definitely trickier than it looks.
The 2nd edition of the D'Antonio guidebook has the wrong bolt count (5), I counted eight. May 30, 2017
jamandbees
Boulder, Colorado
  5.9
jamandbees   Boulder, Colorado
  5.9
That traverse that AndBan mentions is the most amazing piece of this route. It's really unusual, required a lot of thought to get through. Sep 9, 2013
A. Bandos
Broomfield
A. Bandos   Broomfield
Surprising that no one is mentioning the fun/strange traverse right about halfway up. Sep 8, 2013
Thanks. May 26, 2013
Greg Hand
Golden, CO
 
Greg Hand   Golden, CO
 
I added 2 bolts at the start of this route today. The first to protect getting onto the ledge, and the second to protect shorter climbers getting to the original first bolt. Aug 9, 2011
Poorly bolted. There is still lots of loose rock prior to 1st. bolt. My partner cratered when a well chalked up hold pulled just as he was pulling onto the big ledge below 1st bolt. He got a nice cut on his head and cheek and bruised his heel bone but no other damage done. To his credit, he led the route about 15 min. later. The climbing itself was pretty good for as long as it lasted, which wasn't long. Jul 26, 2011
Jon Marek
Sioux Falls, SD
  5.9+
Jon Marek   Sioux Falls, SD
  5.9+
Much harder than it looks from the ground. Jun 12, 2011
Jon Marek
Sioux Falls, SD
  5.9+
Jon Marek   Sioux Falls, SD
  5.9+
This route is way more tricky than it looks from the ground. Jun 12, 2011
Paul Hunnicutt
Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Paul Hunnicutt   Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Maybe not the best route for someone who's limit is around 5.9 to lead. You probably could sink some gear in before the first bolt and after the third there is a crack to the right that would take some finger/mid sized pieces....though it looked a bit like a flake. Nov 21, 2009
I think it's a nice route - yes, some dirt on ledges but still interesting moves and fun crux. Agree with comments about first bolt. Would be a sketchy clip for the short leader. Jul 3, 2008
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.8
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.8
Slimy when wet, dirty when not. Yucky. May 18, 2008
Greg Hand
Golden, CO
 
Greg Hand   Golden, CO
 
A bolt was added to eliminate the runout to the anchors. It was certainly out of character with the climbing. Apr 29, 2008
Brad Schildt
Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Brad Schildt   Boulder, CO
  5.9+
I agree with Aeon that clipping the first bolt is a bit runout, as well as it being a long way from the 4th bolt to the anchors. A decent warm-up for the routes above, which are amazing! Apr 24, 2008
Aeon Aki

  5.9+
Aeon Aki    
  5.9+
This route is pretty dirty right now. The tricky crux at the third bolt may get easier after a few laps and will certainly become more enjoyable. I wouldn't have minded a bolt somewhere before the first one as stepping up to clip it is awkward and could be dangerous for a short leader hanging draws. Apr 12, 2008