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Routes in Lower Animal World

Aardvark T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Animal Riots Activist S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Animation S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Automatic Choke T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Beast Food Left S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Beast Food Right S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blockhead S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cannabis Sportiva T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cold Snap T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crack Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Days of Future Passed aka Our Future Has Passed S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dihedral T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Familiar Strangers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Feeding The Beast (aka Beast Food) T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Free Willie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Geritol Generation T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Gull Whackers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Is It Ready Yet...Moe S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Joint Venture S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Laurel & Hardy Meet Abbott & Costello S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lazy Day S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lovely to See You T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Melancholy Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nice To Be Here S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Old Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Piles of Trials S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Reversal Roof S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c V7 7A+
Threshold Of A Dream S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Triple Play T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tuesday Afternoon S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unfamiliar Strangers S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
We Don't Do Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Greg Hand and Bob D'Antonio, 1996
Page Views: 4,713 total · 24/month
Shared By: Dan Green on Jun 21, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

54 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details


This route is super fun with an array of different kinds of movement on a short rock. Start by making some delicate slab moves into a bulge with small, but positive crimpers. Traverse under the roof via more intense crimping and pull into the roof on good finger buckets. Make a powerful move to a giant jug and then power up through more good crimping. Just a great route!


6 bolts.


Dan Levison
Boulder, CO
Dan Levison   Boulder, CO
I really liked this route -- the ledge after the traverse makes it too tempting to rest/shake out before pulling through the crux to the upper arete. Both versions, 12b or 12c direct makes for a nice route with many different types of climbing (slab, crimping, power, laybacks, etc.) protecting the anchors. Aug 6, 2002
Joe Collins
Joe Collins  
I did this the other day via the 12b way, and I have to say that this version is nowhere near as indirect as Rolofson's guide states. All the holds you use to skip the 12c section are within 2-3 feet to the right of the 4th bolt. I agree that going way right to the rest is pretty indirect, but firing straight up the bulge (the 12c way), dynoing to the jug and skipping all the good holds just to the right, is very contrived. Good route though. Jun 20, 2003
Greg Hand
Golden, CO
Greg Hand   Golden, CO
The name "Piles of Trials" comes from an old Moody Blues song with the refrain "Face piles of trials with smiles...." While equipping the climb, I was in the midst of severe back pain. As I was moving my pack at the base of the climb, the ACL in my right knee exploded! I got a knee brace and came out of my hospital bed for the first ascent. Then I took up golf, and the rest is history....
For historical information, FA 2 April 1996. Jun 20, 2003
I can't even figure out the dyno version. There is a jug to clip the second roof bolt and a layback directly above to reach the lip jug more or less static. What the hell is off route on this route? Oct 2, 2004
Adam Brink
on the road
Adam Brink   on the road
Sorry to contradict, but I felt that the 12b right variation was way contrived, traversing away from the obvious line and that the 12c dyno was the natural way to go. Besides that, the dyno is possibly the wildest single move I have done on any route in Boulder Canyon! If you think you know how to dyno, then go out and give this amazing huck a try. Aug 25, 2006
Aeon Aki

Aeon Aki    
Spectacular! Both versions seem perfectly legit to me, but the dyno (from the sharp flake left and the flaky sidepull right) is simply awesome. Pumpy before and after that too. Just a great sport climb. Jul 15, 2007
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
Contrived? I think you should do it the way it looks most fun. I threw a right knee pad on and jammed it in near the top at the rest. I guess this makes the route 10b/c the way I did it. Either way you do it, its a good route and climbs alot better than it looks. The moves on the top after the jug horn are super fun. I smiled when I did this route.... Oct 25, 2012
Jack Sparrow
denver, co
Jack Sparrow   denver, co
This route is super good, you must do the dyno. It's amazing and may be one of the sickest moves I've done on a Boulder area climb. Also, maybe it's just me, but I stuck the dyno my first try but could not link the moves after, and they are turning out to be the crux for me. Anyone have beta they want to share? Nov 3, 2012
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
I only did the route once for the onsight recently, but I clearly remember using a small, sharp crimp for the right hand that has a tick on it. Locking off on that and getting your left foot up on the jug (the one you dyno to) is the crux. Once you're standing on the jug with your left foot, I bear hugged the block the rest of the way. Have fun with it. It's a great route. The 12a to the left of this is awesome too.... Nov 4, 2012

Interesting route. For me, the crux ended up actually being at the start of the rightwards traverse (getting into the the good hold at the start without getting tangled up in the rope). The feet through here are tough to see and kind of slippery. The rest of it was pretty sequency, but I didn't really ever dyno (used more lower leg flagging instead). One last compression type of move to get stood up onto the headwall. Sep 15, 2014
Bobbi Bensman
Bobbi Bensman  
Super pscyhed to have just flashed this route. I did go to the right to rest and then came back and fired to the anchors. Totally my style and had a great time on this. 5.12b! Oct 16, 2015
Nik Shah
Nik Shah  
Really fun and varied route with interesting movements. Not really sure why the consensus is dyno; we figured out two different betas that were fairly straightforward, and we never attempted the dyno. Oct 18, 2015
Ken Trout
Golden, CO
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
What? D'Antonio's new book doesn't tell how he stole this route from us? Guidebook authors have a strong need to be first. That's okay by me. Authors like Mark Rolofson or Bob D'Antonio both put in a lot of expensive hardware and effort for the benefit of us all.

Animal World is where Bob finally caught up with us after we had established the first sport routes on Upper Security Risk, Blob, Bean Liquor, and Animal World. Ric and I had put in the anchor for Piles while bolting Animal Riots Activist, intending to return once the drill's batteries were recharged. The third hand word was that Bob was already bummed that I had gotten to Plan B first and didn't want me ruining anymore routes in Boulder Canyon. Instead, Bob used our new anchor to bolt Piles. Regardless, I think Bob and Greg put up a fab climb! It would have been even better if they had used 1/2'' Powers hardware like we did, but when you're in a race to be first.... Aug 14, 2018

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