Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Dan Hare & Rob Stanley, 1997
Page Views: 1,401 total · 11/month
Shared By: Chris Archer on Nov 17, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

Either climb Joint Venture (sport) or the corner to its left (trad) to a left-angling crack/groove protected by 5 bolts. Climb the crack directly clipping the bolts out right.

Protection

All sport (10 bolts) if approaching via Joint Venture; small rack of stoppers and cams to 3".

Photos

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Mark Rolofson
  5.12b
Mark Rolofson  
  5.12b
A great pitch with a technical finger jam to undercling/ lieback crux that has shut down some pretty honed climbers. I first redpointed this climb in 2008 & have repeated it almost every year since. It never feels easy. I always do it as a sport climb starting on Joint Venture for 6 bolts. Below 7th bolt on Joint Venture, step left around the arete. Unless you clip this bolt, you are very run-out, but it's easy, & there is a huge jug around the arete to pull up & clip bolt at the start of the difficulties on Beast Food. If you do clip 7th bolt on JA, you'll have to clip out of it.

Ascending this left-leaning, flared groove begins with a good lieback hold. The crux is at 8th bolt. With a long Petzl draw on 9th bolt, you can clip it before executing the crux. It isn't over until you have the jugs above the anchor. The final moves above the last bolt are hard & use a wide hand jam.

There are a total of 10 bolts /2 Fixe rings. There are 4 bolt (not 5) along the left-leaning groove that Beast Food ascends. Nov 13, 2016
Andy Renz
Jackson, WY
Andy Renz   Jackson, WY
May have left a La Sportiva Katana Lace Up at the bottom of Animation....

Give me a call at 3077304933 or email andyrenz5@gmail.com (might not be in immediate phone service) if you find it. You're the best! Nov 15, 2017