Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Marga Powell, Peter Dillon, Ron Olsen, 3/22/09
Page Views: 3,620 total · 30/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Mar 24, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


55 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

Three people on the first ascent, and three crux sections...a triple play. Varied, interesting climbing all the way up.

Climb straight up a narrowing crack to a slot. Work up the slot and step left to a ledge. Climb a short left-facing corner and crank up right to a slab. Continue to an overhang, climb up left onto a pedestal, and surmount the overhang. Continue more easily to the anchor.

A harder variation (10d?) turns the overhang a bit more to the right.

Location

Start at a hand crack between Crack Corner and Animal Riots Activist, at the left side of Animal World. These are the first routes you see when you approach the crag.

Protection

3 or 4 cams from 1/4" to 2", then 4 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with lowering hooks. We used a #2 Camalot, #1 Camalot, green Alien, and red Alien on the first ascent.

Photos

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
How do you rate it? Well, the climb is a step off of a 5.7 much of the way, and I could force the line right for hard moves (probably 5.11) or stem back and left for rest (far easier). By staying more or less on route as I could figure it and choosing the most interesting yet solid climbing up without getting silly eliminating holds and stems, the grade I checked in at was probably 5.9. May 21, 2009
khoa
Tacomarado
 
khoa   Tacomarado
 
Very contrived. Jul 9, 2009
Alan Butler
Boulder, CO
5.10c/d
Alan Butler   Boulder, CO
5.10c/d
I led this climb and ended up stepping/reaching over to the 5.7 crack a little too often. On top rope, actually climbing the bolt line I thought it was significantly harder than Is It Ready Yet Moe, which comes in at 5.10a on this site. So, to me, it was at least 5.10c, if not slightly harder, if you stayed more to the right of the bolt line. Apr 14, 2010
Brent Apgar
Out of the Loop
 
Brent Apgar   Out of the Loop
 
Interesting, I had no idea that there are supposedly 2 distinct lines here. Jul 10, 2010
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.9
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
  5.9
Contrived, yet fun. I thought the moves through the slot were great and the harder moves up high can be made easier by stepping easily left. So, just combine the two routes wherever it feels natural for a decent route all in all. Aug 10, 2012
JFM
 
JFM  
 
Ditto on the contrived character of the line. It's hard to resist the stems leftmost of the time. We used a #3.0, 3.5, and 00 Friend for the bottom part. Jul 5, 2013
This felt more than contrived - it was just silly. How far do you force a move before stepping back left? I led the stemming corner and clipped all the bolts, on toprope climbing anything other than that felt contrived. Almost like this "route" shouldn't even be in the database, just call it variations on the retrobolted stemming corner.

Still it's nice to be able to do the corner with just 4 draws... Aug 2, 2015
slim

  5.9
slim    
  5.9
IIRC, the first bolt is in a block that isn't solid also.... Aug 3, 2015
Dirk Diggler
Boulder, Colorado
Dirk Diggler   Boulder, Colorado
+1 for contrived. Jan 26, 2016
Larry Shaw
Boulder, CO
 
Larry Shaw   Boulder, CO
 
The bottom half was OK, but the top half naturally draws you leftward. Trying to stay right is more than contrived. Aug 14, 2017