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Routes in Animal World

Aardvark T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Animal Instinct S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Animal Magnetism S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Animal Riots Activist S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Animation S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Automatic Choke T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Balance, The T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Beast Food Left S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Beast Food Right S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blame it on a Rush of Blood to the Head T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Blockhead S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cannabis Sportiva T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Closer To God S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Cold Snap T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crack Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cujo Tranquilizer S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Days of Future Passed aka Our Future Has Passed S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dihedral T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Evolution Revolution S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Familiar Strangers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Feeding The Beast (aka Beast Food) T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fifth Destiny, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Fifth World, The T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Free Willie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Geritol Generation T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Global Gorilla S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gull Whackers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hands of Destiny S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Hope and Pray T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Is It Ready Yet...Moe S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Isn't Life Strange S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Joint Venture S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Krakatoa T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Laurel & Hardy Meet Abbott & Costello S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lazy Day S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lovely to See You T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Melancholy Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
New Beginnings S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nice To Be Here S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Old Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Piles of Trials S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pit Bull Prowser S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Reversal Roof S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c V7 7A+
Ride My See-saw S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Split Personality S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Strange Times T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sundog S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Talking Out Of Turn S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Threshold Of A Dream S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Triple Play T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tuesday Afternoon S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unfamiliar Strangers S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
We Don't Do Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wine and Roses T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport
FA: Bob D'Antonio and Greg Hand
Page Views: 8,736 total, 43/month
Shared By: Jake Wyatt on Apr 25, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

It's pretty much a one-move-wonder, but this 12a is fun anyways. 20 feet of easy climbing leads to 2 seams that offer a fun sequence of sidepulls and foot smears. The roof above the crux pulls out onto a slab that puts the anchors within reach.

Protection

Draws for 6 bolts, a fixed nut, and a 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

two chains
Fucken Zion
  5.11-
two chains   Fucken Zion
  5.11-
D'Antonio and Hand must have old man climbing syndrome to call this a 12a (no wonder he doesn't put FAs in his books). Jun 6, 2016
Train4life
Boulder, CO
  5.11b/c
Train4life   Boulder, CO
  5.11b/c
That is so interesting, Jack Sparrow, I would love to see how you climb this! I'm honestly really curious now. I thought every route you just named were grades harder, actually the route to the right of DofFP, Threshold of a Dream, was harder...interesting how one can see a route so differently per climber. Well, hope to see you around someday, Jack Sparrow! Feb 28, 2015
Jack Sparrow
denver, co
  5.12-
Jack Sparrow   denver, co
  5.12-
So I've redpointed Wet Dream, Animal Riots Activist, The Devil, and Strange Science. I still think all those routes were easier for me as they took me between 2 and 5 tries, compared to ten on this. Been on constant Gardner, it feels harder than this, same with Joy Ride. It's probably not 12b, but I don't think it's 5.11 on the Boulder Canyon grading scale. Like I said, could just be a nemesis route for me, but I have a hard time taking 11b/c. Regardless of the grade, it's a great piece of stone with quality climbing the whole way. Feb 24, 2015
A-Train  
Train4Life, please tell me you were joking when you said, "this is a Yosemite move right here." Debating whether a route is 5.11 or 12- is silly enough (is there really a difference?), but calling something a "Yosemite move" is just too good! Feb 22, 2015
Train4life
Boulder, CO
  5.11b/c
Train4life   Boulder, CO
  5.11b/c
Jack Sparrow, I appreciate your comment, very respectable. I will respectfully disagree with your disagreement. I think you should try Animal Riots Activist and some solid 12a's like the ones I mentioned and see if this meets up with it. Try Tits Up at Shelf for a 12b comparison or The Constant Gardner or Joy Ride 12b for comparisons. I thought Empire was a bit soft for 12a, since it basically has one move even relatively close to 12a. Feb 21, 2015
Jack Sparrow
denver, co
  5.12-
Jack Sparrow   denver, co
  5.12-
Hey Train4life, I will respectfully disagree with you. Could have been my personal experience with the climb, but the one move on this merits the 12a rating in my opinion. My beta involved a horrible left foot and a left hand cross to a small crystal crimp that you needed to lean in on to reach a good right hand. For me, when I compare this sequence to every other classic 12- in Boulder Canyon, it holds its grade. I'm comparing to routes like Empire of the Fenceless, Lucky Strikes, The Good The Bad and The Jacked, Prince of Thieves.
Maybe I'm missing something super obvious at the crux, not sure. This climb took me ten tries when I was consistently climbing 12 - on my second go. Maybe it's 5.11 but my complete, anti-style, nemesis route. Feb 17, 2015
Train4life
Boulder, CO
  5.11b/c
Train4life   Boulder, CO
  5.11b/c
I'm going to give my opinion, and I may come off as a MP mean man, but I'm just going to lay out what I think. I think this route is really in the 11b/c region. I think that Reefer Madness has a similar crux in Clear Creek. This may be a little harder because you have to figure it out, but it is not bad at all. I think the person that put 12+ onsight is a little off. This thing is totally onsight-able, and I have seen friends do that very easily. Try Animal Riots Activist right around the corner or Wet Dream at Wall of '90's or Hot Beach at Shelf if you want some comparisons for this to 12a's! I would even say that Strange Science (11d) and The Devil (11d), both at Avalon, are harder than this line! That's just my opinion...take it or leave it! Feb 9, 2015
Dave Alie
Golden, CO
  5.11c/d
Dave Alie   Golden, CO
  5.11c/d
Likely easier for folks with bigger hands; I got a reasonable lock at the crux which made the moves easier than for those who have to hold a gaston. Either way, the business is so short, I'm not sure it earns the 12-. Mar 17, 2014
Is the chalky rail system about 3-4 feet left of the bolts (and the crack just left of the bolt line) on, or are you only supposed to use the thin crack just next to the bolts? I either really lucked out with the sequence or used a whole slew of holds that weren't on.
Apr 14, 2012
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
  5.12a
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
  5.12a
It feels really difficult until you figure out the move. Then its relatively easy. So like 12+ OS, 11+ RP. May 27, 2011
Kevin Neilson
Boulder
 
Kevin Neilson   Boulder
 
I really enjoy this route. There are some 5.10 moves getting to the crux. The crux is sequency and challenging, and then there is a nice bold overhanging section to the anchors.

Super beta: the crux comes after clipping bolt 5, starting from the iron cross position. The next placement of the right foot is key--don't put it on the good hold, but rather on a poorer hold right below. Now cross the left foot through and put it on the good foothold, laybacking against the right hand. Position the left hand high in the crack, get the right foot on the good edge up and to the right, and crank a Gaston with the left hand, standing high and reaching for the obvious chalked horn right of bolt 6. Don't bother with any intermediates for the right hand--just go straight to the horn. Sep 21, 2010
chipacles
  5.12a
chipacles  
  5.12a
Don't know why, but I couldn't figure the crux out. Then watched my girlfriend do it. Went back up and sent it, no problem. Just gotta find the right sequence through the crux.

Pretty fun stuff. Sep 1, 2010
Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
Doug Lintz   Kearney, NE
This is a fun route, there are at least half a dozen sequences for the crux section. Oct 20, 2008
Greg Hand
Golden, CO
Greg Hand   Golden, CO
We placed a bolt where the fixed nut had historically been.
Also replaced the bolt below this one as it was a spinner that could not be tightened. Apr 24, 2008
Greg Hand
Golden, CO
Greg Hand   Golden, CO
I had noticed the nut was missing yesterday. I just replaced it with a new one about 2 months ago because the one that had been there since we put the route in looked real bad. I guess I did not smash it in hard enough. Too bad people have to steal things. Maybe we will put another bolt in there. Apr 22, 2008
David A. Turner
  5.12a
David A. Turner  
  5.12a
Gear alert. The fixed nut is missing. As we had no gear besides quickdraws with us, and unwilling to commit without that bit of gear, we traversed from the top of Free Willie, to the anchors on Days, hung the draws, including extended slings off the crux bolt. Apr 22, 2008
Paul Hunnicutt
Boulder, CO
 
Paul Hunnicutt   Boulder, CO
 
The fixed nut is questionable. Bring some small stoppers or a small cam to back this up if you are worried clipping the bolt at the crux. I couldn't figure out how to transfer my weight onto the hold at the bolt at the crux move. After that you are pretty much done. Jul 15, 2007
Chris O'Connor
boulder, co
  5.11d
Chris O'Connor   boulder, co
  5.11d
Fun but short crux. Definitely easier than Feeding The Beast right around the corner. Sep 11, 2006
SirVato
Boulder
  5.11d
SirVato   Boulder
  5.11d
This was a pretty sweet route!! A good candidate for a 1st lead @ the grade. I don't really down grade routes but. . . I've had harder times on a few 11+s than I did with this. What do I know this was my first 12 lead. The moves are awesome though!!

GEAR ALERT- as of 6-6-06 almost EVERY bolt was a spinner!! I'll try to get back for the red point this week so, while I'm there I'll wrench on those bolts.
Also, the fixed nut is not too good looking - the cable has separated from the nut itself (more like a cable wrapped around chock). The moves to the next bolt aren't too hard or far. Jun 7, 2006
I thought the crux on this was desperate and thin. The climbing above and below was more fun. Good route. Isn't there a piece of fixed gear on this thing? Aug 26, 2004
Greg Hand
Golden, CO
Greg Hand   Golden, CO
Actually I wanted to call it "Days of Future Past" after a Moody Blues song. This was around the same time we did "Piles of Trials" which was from a Moody Blues refrain: Face Piles of Trials with Smiles. This was because my ACL exploded at the base of the climb and I had to come out of the hospital for the FA. For historical information, FA 9 Feb 1996. Oct 27, 2003
Chris Archer
  5.12a
Chris Archer  
  5.12a
Terrific route involving a semi hidden hold at the crux. I thought Bob called it "Days of Future Passed." Oct 27, 2003