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Routes in Animal World

Aardvark T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Animal Instinct S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Animal Magnetism S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Animal Riots Activist S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Animation S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Automatic Choke T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Balance, The T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Beast Food Left S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Beast Food Right S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blame it on a Rush of Blood to the Head T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Blockhead S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cannabis Sportiva T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Closer To God S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Cold Snap T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crack Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cujo Tranquilizer S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Days of Future Passed aka Our Future Has Passed S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dihedral T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Evolution Revolution S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Familiar Strangers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Feeding The Beast (aka Beast Food) T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fifth Destiny, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Fifth World, The T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Free Willie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Geritol Generation T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Global Gorilla S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gull Whackers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hands of Destiny S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Hope and Pray T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Is It Ready Yet...Moe S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Isn't Life Strange S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Joint Venture S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Krakatoa T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Laurel & Hardy Meet Abbott & Costello S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lazy Day S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lovely to See You T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Melancholy Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
New Beginnings S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nice To Be Here S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Old Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Piles of Trials S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pit Bull Prowser S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Reversal Roof S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c V7 7A+
Ride My See-saw S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Split Personality S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Strange Times T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sundog S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Talking Out Of Turn S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Threshold Of A Dream S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Triple Play T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tuesday Afternoon S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unfamiliar Strangers S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
We Don't Do Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wine and Roses T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Richard Rossiter and Gail Effron, 1996. Retrobolted by Rick Leitner and Chris Alber, 1997
Page Views: 25,522 total, 126/month
Shared By: Peter Franzen on Apr 13, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This description & its comments are combined. Since this was the earlier contribution, Jon Cannon's was merged into this one.

This is a great warm-up or a good lead for 5.8 climbers (it's "Turbo Bitchin'," according to a friend of mine). Jugs are plentiful on this vertical face. The route is on the Lower Animal World cliff and ascends an obvious line of bolts in the middle of a tall vertical face. The route lies just right of 'Joint Venture.'

This route is located on the wall facing west in the West Buttress area. Good holds are plentiful for the first 60 feet or so of this route, and then start to thin out somewhat. Balance and footwork are paramount for the final series of moves, where the wall bulges out slightly. It is a very fun route, with thoughtfully-placed bolts.

Eds. Per Richard Rossiter: this should not have the name Jaycene's Dance listed as an AKA.

Protection

10 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. A 60m rope is required to get down.
May have left a La Sportiva Katana Lace Up at the bottom of Animation....

Give me a call at 3077304933 or email andyrenz5@gmail.com (might not be in immediate phone service) if you find it. You're the best! 5 days ago
Larry S
Boulder, CO
 
Larry S   Boulder, CO
 
Great holds, bolting, and climbing. One of my favorites in the area. Jul 17, 2017
IT IS WRONG TO USE OR EVEN MENTION THE NAME Jaycene’s Dance. Leitner and Alber went up and retro-bolted a route already climbed and named ANIMATION, then had the phenomenal lack of character to rename it. How low can you go?

It is however appropriate to mention that the route was retro-bolted because the bolts are there, and I did not place them So please do not validate their transgression by listing Jaycene’s Dance as an AKA. THE ROUTE DOES NOT HAVE TWO NAMES any more than it has two first ascents. Thank you. Jul 7, 2017
James Cranston
Boulder, CO
  5.8+ PG13
James Cranston   Boulder, CO
  5.8+ PG13
So much fun! Large variety of rock shape and movement. Jan 2, 2017
Mason Roberts
Boulder, CO
  5.8
Mason Roberts   Boulder, CO
  5.8
Everything you read here is correct - I just wanted to add that a 60m rope works fine for a TR. There are rap rings and quick hooks at the top. Set your own gear for the TR. I'm sure this gets enough laps that the anchors would have to be replaced often otherwise. Aug 8, 2016
Andrew Locke
Louisville, CO
  5.8
Andrew Locke   Louisville, CO
  5.8
Do this climb. It's awesome. Mar 28, 2015
MountainSean Foege
Indian Hills
  5.8 PG13
MountainSean Foege   Indian Hills
  5.8 PG13
Hit it yesterday on a warm winter day. Great sun until around 3. Great grippy rock, every hold was solid. Great 5.8. Solid hardware, though I threw a piece in before the first bolt for extra pro, since it's a bit tall. Jan 27, 2015
On June 9th, Dale Haas and I replaced the old anchor with two 1/2" SS Powers bolts. We added SS quicklinks and SS rappel rings to the hangers. The hardware for this work was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association(ASCA)(www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support. Jun 16, 2014
JJR
Boulder, CO
 
JJR   Boulder, CO
 
Such a fun route! Definitely one of the better 8s I've done. Fun moves, good to put a beginner on top rope I would think (but really fun to lead). If you are leading it, it's hard to reach the 5th (?) bolt from the big ledge.... I'm 5'8", and I had to do a little move to reach the bolt. All in all, great route! Do it if you're in the area! Jun 12, 2012
Coco Bell  
 
Awesome route, not the best if you are bringing a beginner out.... The crux is at the top which is amazingly tall for a top-rope!! May 30, 2012
There's a 200+ lb rock about 20-30 feet up on the left side near a bush that looks like it might just get pulled out if you were to unwittingly use it as a hold, as I started to do.... It's not too hard to miss, though. Other than that the rock is really solid. Fun climb! May 6, 2011
Benten
Denver
  5.8
Benten   Denver
  5.8
It is a lesson in climbing technique! It starts off standard, goes into a mantel, a sidepull, then a place to jam a crack. Ends with a lesson in undercling technology, and there is always a sloper to get familiar with. Have fun. Oct 9, 2010
keith story
Boulder, CO
 
keith story   Boulder, CO
 
Good beginner's route. Fun speed climbing for intermediates/advanced climbers. Do this route, whether it is a new adventure or as a way to get your blood flowing.

Great, comfy area too! Aug 31, 2010
chris kline
Boulder, Co / Jervis Bay , Aus
 
chris kline   Boulder, Co / Jervis Bay , Aus
 
Great fun route - The bulge goes easily, it's getting up and close to it that was the crux for me! Jun 4, 2009
John F
Cowdrey, Co
 
John F   Cowdrey, Co
 
It's fun to skip the bolts and place gear on this route. RPs to #0.75 Camalot. Aug 27, 2008
khoa
Tacomarado
 
khoa   Tacomarado
 
There's a very loose flake about the size of a plate towards the top of the route (after the big ledge a bit). I couldn't pull it out, but it was freely moving in place. Jun 20, 2008
J. Fox
Black Hawk, CO
 
J. Fox   Black Hawk, CO
 
I really liked this one as well. My first 5.8 lead ever. Positive holds everywhere. The only cruxen for me were between bolts 2 & 3 and then just below the last bolt but there was/is a nice undercling there. It was wet when I climbed it on 5/28/08. I'm either getting better, or its not really a 5.8 but maybe a 5.7-. Jun 2, 2008
Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.8
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.8
This route and Mosquito Burrito (Bowling Alley) have very similar position, although MB is more sustained, and the climbing is more intricate, for the grade.

I enjoyed this route, although I thought the bolt above the first ledge-break was placed too high. I am 6', and I had to stretch for it. A shorter climber would have to do a high-step move off the ledge, and a fall there would be a big one onto the slab below after you bounced off of the ledge.

A trick that I learned from setting gym routes was to never set holds above elbow height, with the arm raised above my head. That pretty much assured that a shorter person had an equal chance of reaching it from the same stance. Maybe some of these route developers should consider the same practice when placing bolts.

That bolt should be a foot lower, and then the route would be better, IMO. Nov 7, 2007
Jamie gatchalian
denver, co
  5.8
Jamie gatchalian   denver, co
  5.8
Awesome! Probably the best of its grade that I have been on in a long time. Would recommend that everyone try it. Nov 1, 2007
Talia
SLC, UT
Talia   SLC, UT
Only had time to climb for a day in a half in Colorado and really enjoyed this climb. A nice change from the slab climbing. A bit more vert and gotta love the changes in the type of climbing. Aug 14, 2007
Ryan Malaty
Broomfield, CO
 
Ryan Malaty   Broomfield, CO
 
Good climb on a nice day, don't catch it on a bad day though! haha. May 2, 2007
Greg Hand
Golden, CO
Greg Hand   Golden, CO
The "first action photo" would be Hands of Destiny. It is located just right (2000 feet) of Jaycene's Dance. Sep 20, 2004
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
Bingo, Jake, that's it. Thanks for clearing this up. Sep 19, 2004
Jake Wyatt
Longmont, CO
 
Jake Wyatt   Longmont, CO
 
George: Did you end up at Mine Hole Crag, and climb Sofa Kingdon? Sep 19, 2004
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
Random comments: the bolted route right of this is now listed here under "Unfamiliar Strangers, 5.9+", I believe. We climbed both of these and enjoyed them.

The first "action photo" on this page is not Jaycene's Dance. I don't have enough knowledge of this crag to know what route is actually picured, but it's definitely not this route.

We got lost on the way to Animal World and climbed an obscure bolted route which is on a crag about 100 yards due west of Animal World, with the base 50 vertical feet higher. It is a fun route, probably only 5.8 with about 7 bolts on it. It is just right of a gully, but I have no idea what crag it is on. There are some more bolts right of this line. Sep 19, 2004
Jake Wyatt
Longmont, CO
 
Jake Wyatt   Longmont, CO
 
A single 5.8 move just before the anchors, and the rest of the route a grade or two lower. Nice and continuous, though. Mar 1, 2004
Matt Chan
Boulder
 
Matt Chan   Boulder
 
Great route to bring a friend just getting into the sport. The positively positive blocks make it a blast and such a nice view from the top. Jun 26, 2003
Despite the route names or bolting issues, the bottom line is that this is a great route for any intermediate leader. Whenever you need a good hand or foothold, there seems to be one there for you. Very little exposure on the way up to sketch you out. At the top there is a decent view up and down the canyon. Simply an all around good climb and one many should put on their "tick" list. Sep 3, 2002
This climb has now been retro-bolted. Between the 4th and 5th bolts is a ledge. At 5 feet 4 inches tall, this was the crux for me, getting that 5th clip. I could not reach it from the ledge and had to make a move to get higher. A fall back to the 4th bolt would have been a good one. If you fall while pulling up rope for the clip.... Diminutive folks may wish a nut or two to place for this move. Just a suggestion.

BTW, adding bolts to a climb does not generally give you the right to rename it.... Aug 13, 2002
Michael Walker
Loveland, CO
Michael Walker   Loveland, CO
Before it was bolted, this route was led with gear and named "Animation 5.9". After receiving bolts and letter grade drop in difficulty, it was listed in Rolofson's guide as "Jaycene's Dance 5.8".... Jul 1, 2002
Jeff Lockyer
Canmore, AB
Jeff Lockyer   Canmore, AB
A great route. This route has plenty of holds as suggested. The length also adds to the enjoyment of the route. This is certainly a great warm up for the others on this crag. I would suggest 'Free Willie' and the 12a that you first see when you arrive from the left of the crag, a beauty. This is a super route for a new leader, not sure how to interpret 'Turbo Bitchin', but definitely great. Oct 4, 2001