Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Dan Hare, David Brewster
Page Views: 1,679 total · 9/month
Shared By: Dougald MacDonald on Mar 30, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

This is the obvious line left of Free Willie. I had always been put off this climb by the hideous-looking roof at the bottom (with one bolt near the lip), so I decided to skirt this problem by starting on Free Willie. Good choice!

Clipping a very long sling on Free Willie's second bolt, traverse left about 25 feet into the main line, with decent pro. Interesting face and crack climbing lead past a suspect pin and a good bolt, with good supplementary pro. Easier climbing leads to a second crux and another bolt. There's a newish lower-off anchor at the top. Highly worthwhile.

Protection

Standard rack with emphasis on wires and small cams. RPs. Two bolts.

Photos

David A. Turner
  5.11b
David A. Turner  
  5.11b
If I could give this climb 1/2 a star, I would. The best climbing on the pitch is the last ten feet. Otherwise, I found it worthy to do only if you are somewhat desperate to do gear routes you haven't done yet, like me.

Dougald's beta about clipping the second bolt of Free Willie won't keep you from decking if you fall before getting gear in. Even climbing the directissima won't keep you from decking if you fall before getting gear. However, the gear is good when the opportunity first appears. It gets more spicy after the pin and bolt. May 12, 2004
Chris Archer
  5.11c
Chris Archer  
  5.11c
On a historical note, the first ascent team placed no pins or bolts and led the route on all natural gear. (Good job lads!) The route traversed in from the right climbed the crack past the current middle crux (at the pin and bolt) and then finished up and right in the chimney gully just left of Free Willie's anchors.Does anyone have any information about the direct start or finish? May 13, 2004
The sketchy start just changed a lot; most of the starting roof recently collapsed. I was there last Friday and it was fine, but I walk by the area today and there is a large pile of rock spread everywhere. Somewhat surprisingly, the first bolt is still intact, but the rock that stayed up in the affected area looks pretty sketchy.

Be careful hiking or climbing by this area! May 30, 2006
Mick Follari
Boulder
Mick Follari   Boulder
Climbed it last year sometime.... I don't know about the opening roof, I tried it on TR afterwards, but skipped it on lead, climbing just around to the right. However, I didn't use any of Free Willy. Found Alien placements and such near the pin (which I didn't trust either). After moving past the pin and up, I managed to grab something that came off almost bowling-ball sized in my hand, and had to throw down, sending belayers scampering. Adventurous given the sporty nature of the area. Sep 3, 2007
Brady Robinson
Boulder, CO
Brady Robinson   Boulder, CO
Climbed the direct start last week by climbing around the easy way to clip the first bolt. It felt like a reachy V4 boulder problem and involved pulling on at least two blocks which may come out someday. The upper crack had interesting sections, but before the last bolt I used a hold that was covered in some black tar/poop and it felt like the rock quality was questionable. This route is worth it if you're feeling like placing some gear, but is probably the lowest quality route I've done at Animal World. May 25, 2009
Stonebhikku
boulder, co
 
Stonebhikku   boulder, co
 
Was here today and climbed this thing, traversed in from the side as the roof gets wet with drip. Guy went up just before me and pulled the fixed pin out by hand, so NO MORE PIN on this thing, blue Mastercam or small nuts to supplement what it protected. Good climb, face didn't feel much harder than 10d to me but was heady on such "smaller" gear, fun for Animal World trad if you bring up a rack. May 26, 2015