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Routes in Animal World

Aardvark T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Animal Instinct S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Animal Magnetism S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Animal Riots Activist S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Animation S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Automatic Choke T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Balance, The T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Beast Food Left S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Beast Food Right S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blame it on a Rush of Blood to the Head T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Blockhead S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cannabis Sportiva T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Closer To God S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Cold Snap T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crack Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cujo Tranquilizer S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Days of Future Passed aka Our Future Has Passed S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dihedral T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Evolution Revolution S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Familiar Strangers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Feeding The Beast (aka Beast Food) T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fifth Destiny, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Fifth World, The T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Free Willie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Geritol Generation T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Global Gorilla S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gull Whackers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hands of Destiny S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Hope and Pray T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Is It Ready Yet...Moe S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Isn't Life Strange S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Joint Venture S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Krakatoa T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Laurel & Hardy Meet Abbott & Costello S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lazy Day S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lovely to See You T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Melancholy Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
New Beginnings S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nice To Be Here S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Old Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Piles of Trials S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pit Bull Prowser S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Reversal Roof S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c V7 7A+
Ride My See-saw S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Split Personality S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Strange Times T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sundog S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Talking Out Of Turn S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Threshold Of A Dream S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Triple Play T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tuesday Afternoon S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unfamiliar Strangers S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
We Don't Do Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wine and Roses T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Dan Hare, David Brewster
Page Views: 1,566 total, 9/month
Shared By: Dougald MacDonald on Mar 30, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This is the obvious line left of Free Willie. I had always been put off this climb by the hideous-looking roof at the bottom (with one bolt near the lip), so I decided to skirt this problem by starting on Free Willie. Good choice!

Clipping a very long sling on Free Willie's second bolt, traverse left about 25 feet into the main line, with decent pro. Interesting face and crack climbing lead past a suspect pin and a good bolt, with good supplementary pro. Easier climbing leads to a second crux and another bolt. There's a newish lower-off anchor at the top. Highly worthwhile.

Protection

Standard rack with emphasis on wires and small cams. RPs. Two bolts.

Photos

Stonebhikku
boulder, co
 
Stonebhikku   boulder, co
 
Was here today and climbed this thing, traversed in from the side as the roof gets wet with drip. Guy went up just before me and pulled the fixed pin out by hand, so NO MORE PIN on this thing, blue Mastercam or small nuts to supplement what it protected. Good climb, face didn't feel much harder than 10d to me but was heady on such "smaller" gear, fun for Animal World trad if you bring up a rack. May 26, 2015
Climbed the direct start last week by climbing around the easy way to clip the first bolt. It felt like a reachy V4 boulder problem and involved pulling on at least two blocks which may come out someday. The upper crack had interesting sections, but before the last bolt I used a hold that was covered in some black tar/poop and it felt like the rock quality was questionable. This route is worth it if you're feeling like placing some gear, but is probably the lowest quality route I've done at Animal World. May 25, 2009
Mick Follari
Boulder
Mick Follari   Boulder
Climbed it last year sometime.... I don't know about the opening roof, I tried it on TR afterwards, but skipped it on lead, climbing just around to the right. However, I didn't use any of Free Willy. Found Alien placements and such near the pin (which I didn't trust either). After moving past the pin and up, I managed to grab something that came off almost bowling-ball sized in my hand, and had to throw down, sending belayers scampering. Adventurous given the sporty nature of the area. Sep 3, 2007
The sketchy start just changed a lot; most of the starting roof recently collapsed. I was there last Friday and it was fine, but I walk by the area today and there is a large pile of rock spread everywhere. Somewhat surprisingly, the first bolt is still intact, but the rock that stayed up in the affected area looks pretty sketchy.

Be careful hiking or climbing by this area! May 30, 2006
Chris Archer
  5.11c
Chris Archer  
  5.11c
On a historical note, the first ascent team placed no pins or bolts and led the route on all natural gear. (Good job lads!) The route traversed in from the right climbed the crack past the current middle crux (at the pin and bolt) and then finished up and right in the chimney gully just left of Free Willie's anchors.Does anyone have any information about the direct start or finish? May 13, 2004
David A. Turner
  5.11b
David A. Turner  
  5.11b
If I could give this climb 1/2 a star, I would. The best climbing on the pitch is the last ten feet. Otherwise, I found it worthy to do only if you are somewhat desperate to do gear routes you haven't done yet, like me.

Dougald's beta about clipping the second bolt of Free Willie won't keep you from decking if you fall before getting gear in. Even climbing the directissima won't keep you from decking if you fall before getting gear. However, the gear is good when the opportunity first appears. It gets more spicy after the pin and bolt. May 12, 2004