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Routes in Lower Animal World

Aardvark T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Animal Riots Activist S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Animation S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Automatic Choke T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Beast Food Left S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Beast Food Right S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blockhead S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cannabis Sportiva T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cold Snap T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crack Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Days of Future Passed aka Our Future Has Passed S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dihedral T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Familiar Strangers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Feeding The Beast (aka Beast Food) T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Free Willie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Geritol Generation T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Gull Whackers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Is It Ready Yet...Moe S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Joint Venture S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Laurel & Hardy Meet Abbott & Costello S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lazy Day S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lovely to See You T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Melancholy Man S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nice To Be Here S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Old Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Piles of Trials S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Reversal Roof S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c V7 7A+
Threshold Of A Dream S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Triple Play T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tuesday Afternoon S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unfamiliar Strangers S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
We Don't Do Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, Sport, 70 ft
FA: Vaino Kodas & Bob D
Page Views: 1,482 total · 12/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Apr 6, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

The crux is a powerful sequence out and over the lower roof. The name is keeping in theme with the Moody Blues and comes from Vaino's visit back to Boulder Canyon and seeing some old friends.

Location

Start at the left side of low overhang on the trail to upper Animal World and just left of Melancholy Man.

Protection

Five bolts and couple of red, purple and green Camalots.

Photos

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Aeon Aki    
 
After you pull the roof, does this route move out left to link with the line of bolts, or does it continue straight up through the right facing flakes? Apr 12, 2008
Greg Hand
Golden, CO
Greg Hand   Golden, CO
This route (as originally done) follows the wide crack straight up.
The bolts left are Nice To Be Here (done as an easier start) which joins Lovely To See You higher up. But it may make more sense (less gear/harder climbing) to move left and follow the bolts. If you can climb 5.12c, you probably don't need the purple Camalot at the top before the anchors. Apr 12, 2008
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.12a
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.12a
There are 3 ways to make a hard route:
1) Technical moves
2) Physical difficulty
3) Bad holds

This route had a little of each all in the initial section. After tonight, it's got more of the former and less of the latter.
It took me 3 tries to get up this thing.

To note: The undecling below the roof is now half gone. The crimp/sidepull below and left of the 2nd bolt is now 1/2 gone. (The one Vaino's foot is on in the picture.) May 10, 2008

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