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Tom Maino just below the crux on 1st pitch.
One of the best 5.9 routes in the canyon, with varied and funky climbing. Scramble up below the west wall of the Bastille a little ways to a level section below a large block. The bolts on Hair City should be directly above.
P1-place pro and traverse 10 feet straight left above a bulging wall (this bulging wall is the direct 5.9+ start, protected by a bolt, not to be confused with the direct variation above) to a thin crack with a couple of pitons. Climb it for about 10 feet (crux, sandbag), and make a confusing traverse left to a stance and then continue up easier but steep and runout rock to the belay anchor.
Instead of traversing you can continue "straight up the crack at 5.10", but this is hard to initiate unless you step left first and then back right to the crack, and done that way it's easier than the move by the pitons. (120 feet).
P2-head up and right to the crack formed by a large detached flake/pillar. Climb that (5.9 at a bolt) as it widens to a chimney and belay on top at more bolts.
P3-head up and left to a shallow chimney that offers a 5.7 passage through a roof band. Belay on the next ledge or continue easily to the top of the Bastille. The preferred alternative is to tackle the overhang directly by continuing on Hair City.
Standard rack to a #4 Friend.
BETA PHOTO: The north and west faces of the Bastille.
Say what you will but imho the final pitches of th...
One way to do the initialize traverse is to keep y...
The 10a finish to the first pitch. It's steeper th...
John Haines finishing up the exposed hand traverse...
John high up.
After fighting off the savage pigeons, John master...
The "5.9" crux reach on the first pitch of the Wes...
Wide crack action on pitch 2.
Gear above the first pitch crux is there, just tin...
Someone just above the crux.
Looking down the first pitch. It was harder than ...
Finishing up the crux of the 2nd pitch. It's funn...
KC heading into the dihedral. Circa 1991.
|Comments on West Buttress
|By Anonymous Coward|
Jan 1, 2001
Escalar - Going straight up after the initial crux makes for an even better pitch. It might be .10a/b or so. It is well protected--better protected than going off to the left. It is also nice to do the "direct start", starting under the initial traverse at the bolt. It is not as hard as it looks especially if you are tall, but it does involve a long reach--solid 5.10. Combining these variations makes a superb, direct line up a beautiful wall.
|By Tyler Jones|
Jan 1, 2001
Another great variation for the 3rd pitch is to take the right side roof, which is actually West Face route. I thought is was the better one of the three choices, all of which end up in the same place. But a word of warning, just when you start up into the roof, theres a horn sticking out that is a must to make the move... it EXTREMELY lose and sounds like its about to snap. Other then that, its an awesome pitch!
|By Chris Dawson|
From: Denver, CO
Feb 4, 2002
There's also a variation to the second pitch that is pretty fun. Climb up, clip the bolt and traverse on thin holds out right to the arete (awkward/a little airy/scary) then climb up the face. It's about .8+, so it's a bit easier than the normal route. It's also a little more interesting. Quick note on the pins on the first pitch. One of them is missing as of this fall. I think it was the lower one but I could be wrong. It is possible to back up the pin with gear however.
|By Hayden Yurkanis|
Jun 23, 2002
after the traverse after the crux be prepared to get creative with gear (i placed nothing bigger than a red alien on the first pitch)....anyways the climbing is easy but the path of least resistance does require thought, as the easiest way wanders a bit
|By Casey Bernal|
From: Arvada, CO
Jul 8, 2002
I climbed this on 7/4 and both pins are still at the crux on the first pitch. An old ring pin is at the end of the hand traverse (about a foot above the holds in the start of the crack ) and the other one is a LA at your waist for the crux move. it is easy to place a back-up piece near the first pin. You do not need much gear for any of the pitches and emphasize on smaller stuff. Also a #4 cam is nice before you clip the bolt on the OW pitch.casey bernal
|By George Bell|
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 7, 2002
The crux is harder than anything on Hair City. The offwidth on the second pitch is quite a wake-up call too, when you realize you can't remember how to climb OW's any more. Liebacking past it may be the easiest way, but is this cheating?
|By Hayden Yurkanis|
Feb 18, 2003
Beta on the 5.10 variation:
There are two ways that I know of to get into the the crack above the tricky 5.9 crux.
1) (hard way) grab those huge juggs to the right after the 5.9 crux, work your feet up in the thin seem---lock off, and grab a really shitty hold in the crack. you now have really shitty hands and no feet to get the rest position.
2) (easier, less obvious way) instead of grabing the juggs to the right, step left a foot or two (or three??) and balance your way up to the crack with better feet.
|By Ernie Port|
From: Boulder, Colorado
Aug 19, 2003
Agree with Jay and Charles regarding the step left at the beginning of the (10a) variation on P1. I used it, as it offered more leverage for the crank up and thru. Easier (10a) move though than say...the crux of Blind Faith. IMO this climb favors those high on the ape index, especially at that move, as well as the one down below in the lower crack.The (9) move at the bolt on P2 into the chimney is pretty wild...I stepped high with the left foot and layed that bitch back. Not a gimme layback either...kinda flared out and down sloping rock, so I stemmed way out with the right foot, and then shifted my left side & inserted the left leg in the off-width. One of the weirdest moves I've done in awhile. Once in the OW, work over to a nice chockstone & shimmey up 8' to the belay ledge. Hellova fun climb...lots of variety.
|By Ivan Rezucha|
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 27, 2003
Another way to do the start of the 10a direct: Right foot to a small put positive hold up and left from the pin. Right hand to a good sidepull in the crack, just above the brass nut/small stopper you should have placed. Left foot up to big hold. Rock ontol left foot. You can climb much higher on this variation than the beta photo indicates before escaping left to join the regular route. Where you escape left depends on how far you are willing to run it out on 5.8 or so climbing.
|By Shane Zentner|
May 28, 2004
Instead of traversing left at the second piton I went straight up the crack(following chalk marks) and onto the face(5.10). Stout and pumpy, yet fun and a bit heady. The gear is there, but one must be a little creative in placing it. Crimp/layback the flake on the second pitch, chicken wing the chimney.
Traversing left at the piton is a bit confusing, hence the crack above. Well worth doing.
|By Clint Locks|
Jun 24, 2004
After 4 times on the route, I still think the P1 crux is one of the hardest in Eldo! Delicate feet. Anyway, my point is really that, on P3, there are 3 ways to go, right after the rotten band. Far left is the funky 5.7 thing, to the far right is a loose committing 5.8+ (as was already mentioned), but I recommend the middle option: straight up the middle crack above you. 5.9. A great stopper placement right before the moves over the top should give some encouragement...after tiptoeing through that rotten, crappy red band. (NOTE--There are a couple of VERY loose blocks in that but, then again, this IS Eldo, God love her!). Have fun!
|By Tom Painter|
Jun 22, 2005
The chockstone on P2 was on vacation at a trundling party in the Tien Shan. It has now resituated itself in the chimney.
|By Chris Darr|
From: Denver, Co
Oct 18, 2005
Fun route, the beginning traverse is a bit hairy but protects well. A bolt at the chimney eases the fact that your forgot to bring really big gear once again...
|By Bosier Parsons|
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Feb 28, 2006
We finished by stepping down and left to the last pitch of Outer Space (inobvious as a first-timer on this route, but highly recommended).
|By Danny Inman|
Aug 14, 2006
This is a superb climb, and IMHO one of the finest 9s in Eldo. If you need exposure fast, this is the route for you. Two moves off the trail, and you have much exposure. Combining P1 and P2 makes for one hell of a good pitch with a little bit of everything. I am 5'8" and felt the crux at the second pin on P1 to be quite tricky, the off-width section was wild. I'm a fan of OWs, so I went for it using off-width technique, which did not last long before I figured out that there is a little trick to keep everything at 5.9-. I think that if you go with pure OW on this section, you will get a little more than 5.9.
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 26, 2006
What a great way to finish off the day. We did the 10b/c crack that continues straight up past the pins through the thin crack. Never even realized that the route went left at the second pin. It did feel harder than 9+ so it makes sense. The squeeze chimney was a little intense... they aren't my favorite. The simple top out pitch was cool, too.
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 10, 2007
8/9/07 was a fun send. Cops blocked off the road to Eldo for a race- ran for 20min. w/ light rack + rope. Oh and a case of PBRs- which we deposited @ Kev's and Bodey's place. Started climbing @ ? 8:45pm.
Rack I lead on 1st pitch in order: -Pin; -Pin; -#5 RP (BD); skipped bolt anchor- did clip inset piton-w/ double length runner. After a pigeon flew out the crack right in my face. - Bolt; to the 2 bolt anchor belay.
Now it's dark.
2nd pitch: -piton @ 5.7 move, 5 pigeons chillin' right w/ that pin, had a quick chat w/ them and decided to back pin up w/ that #5 RP I used earlier in case birds freak out. Top out. Done dark style.
|By Ed Wright|
Nov 23, 2007
This was the second route I ever climbed, on the first day I ever climbed. This was back in '67 when we had no harnesses or belay devices--it was quite an adventure. Been hooked and climbing ever since.
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 15, 2008
rating: 5.10a R
I thought that this was the worst "good" route I've climbed in Eldo.
|By Andy Laakmann|
From: Bend, OR
May 16, 2009
rating: 5.9+ PG13
An exciting and varied route - highly recommended if you are comfortable at the grade. The opening traverse is a bit polished, adding to the excitement. I though the crux seemed fair at 5.9+, but I knew exactly how to do it from the MP beta, so that certainly made it easier. The pins were in good shape on 5/16/2009. Above the pin the climbing is easier, but don't expect much gear.
I thought P2 was really fun. I clipped the bolt, and cranked into the offwidth. Good fun, but I enjoy a little squeeze now-and-then... particularly with a bolt :)
I opted for the left P3 finish, and thought it was a dud. I won't be repeating that finish again. Easy to take this pitch all the way to the top.
|By Shawn Mitchell|
Jul 8, 2009
Hmm. Seems there's lots of beta about options after the crux, but nothing about nailing that reach. So...EXCESSIVE BETA WARNING: After the traverse, clip the pins, position your feet up on the little ledge, and select a higher edge for your right foot to press a semi-lieback. Decide which right pull crimps in the crack to crank on, imagine powering the move and throwing your left hand up to the holds above the crack, and it feels HARD! Hard crank, hard balance, hard everything. If you do it like the guy in the "5.9 crux reach" photo, more power to you. I was a wimp, felt sure I'd fall, and couldn't force myself to commit to a move that felt futile. ("There's a pin at your chest, weenie! Go for it!" *wimper*)
I backed off and Rowdy Ranger Mike McHugh polished it off. Then, on second, a miracle happened. Same awkward stance, same high right foot, same low right pull crimp...and then...instead of cranking a big move and throwing left hand up, I started to pull a slower, little move, my left hand still on something lower, maybe flat on the face for balance, don't really remember, but the miracle: just before my left foot pulled off the flattish ledge, I suddenly thought to look DOWN and left, where I spied a greasy scoop to pop my left foot up on. Foot held fine. I was higher without any uber crank on the crack crimps. Suddenly, all the holds that had been a foot or more out of range were in easy reach.
Now, your left hand moves casually up, feels selectively around for the best hold, and you've done the crux reach. Easy. Where to go after that? Straight? Little left? Big left? Your call. Read the other comments for that beta.
By the way, this isn't just cheap top rope advice: after I joined him at the belay, Maestro Mike mentored on: "Shall we finish, or do you want to go back and lead it clean?" That's what we did. Thanks, Mike.
|By Brett Brotherton|
From: Arvada, CO
Jun 17, 2010
rating: 5.10- PG13
I thought the "5.10" variation was easy. I struggled figuring out the crux sequence but got the onsight, then started to go left and got scared. So decided to take the crack, if you go left first it is not that hard to get into the crack and is definitely easier than the crux. Also it takes great gear if your a big baby like me.
|By Jason Halladay|
From: Los Alamos, NM
Sep 12, 2010
I'm not a wide crack fan, so while leading the second pitch, I clipped the bolt and busted out right to the arete and then up to the belay ledge. 5.9ish and some decent gear once you get out there and up. Recommended.
Also, I back cleaned my gear so my partner could climb the wide crack. Also recommended. :-)
|By Tony T.|
From: Denver, CO
Aug 10, 2011
Fantastic climb! I seconded up the variation on the Super Start (10a), and we inadvertently climbed the second pitch of Hair City from the anchors above the second pitch of the West Buttress.
If you want a sustained 5.9 climb the whole way up, I highly recommend the second pitch of Hair City instead of the rest of West Buttress for a hair-raising, exposed, but extremely enjoyable and safe roof!