The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
nicole leading the route between "anunnaki" and "n...
Description
This climb not apparently described in the book, nor is it named or rated. It is on the on the wall's main face, 1/2 way between "NEAT" and the "Anunnaki Pillar."You will see a pair of twin cracks with thin hands on the left and chossy, intermittent tips and seams on the right that reach a anchor at 70' or so up. Climging the left most of these with the occasional aid of the right one is probably 5.10. Climbing it with the 'eliminate' of the crack on the right might provide 5.10+ challenge. The route used to finish at a single bolt and 2-fixed-stopper anchor, but that was updated by the additon of a bolt.
I believe this route is in the Bloom book and is listed as climb #13, Unknown 5.11. The whole route climbs 120 feet to an upper anchor. I really like the lower part of this route that climbs to the first anchor. Good stuff.
The new guide book calls this route Cassey's Route, but still lacks to inform you of the midway anchor. This is a great thin hands splitter to the midway anchor, not to be missed... doesnt really look like anyone ever goes past the midway anchor.
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