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The Optimator
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Unknown B 

Unknown B 

5.10

   

FA: unknown to me
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10c [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 70 feet
Views: 323 page views

Submitted By: Tony Bubb on Oct 29, 2005


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nicole leading the route between "anunnaki" and "n...


Description 

This climb not apparently described in the book, nor is it named or rated. It is on the on the wall's main face, 1/2 way between "NEAT" and the "Anunnaki Pillar."You will see a pair of twin cracks with thin hands on the left and chossy, intermittent tips and seams on the right that reach a anchor at 70' or so up. Climging the left most of these with the occasional aid of the right one is probably 5.10. Climbing it with the 'eliminate' of the crack on the right might provide 5.10+ challenge. The route used to finish at a single bolt and 2-fixed-stopper anchor, but that was updated by the additon of a bolt.


Protection 

Various, thin hands to hands.



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By Anonymous Coward
Nov 8, 2005

new bolt(3/8" SS triplex)added to existing single bolt anchor, and fixed nuts removed.

Fun route. Stiff start, but good hands higher, and bomber finger locks on the steep part. The right crack helps with the feet (ie. stemming).

By m-earle
From: Durango CO
Feb 21, 2007

This is a fun route, i give it 3 stars. a good warm up if the popular routes are occupied

By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Mar 17, 2008

I believe this route is in the Bloom book and is listed as climb #13, Unknown 5.11. The whole route climbs 120 feet to an upper anchor. I really like the lower part of this route that climbs to the first anchor. Good stuff.