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Jimmy Cliff
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Things as They Are 
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When Pigs Fly 

Things As They Are Now 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Chris Smith
Page Views: 3,465
Submitted By: Patrick Bagley on Oct 22, 2006
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Jed making the bottom moves on this great climb.


This short climb may feel more reminiscent of a V4 boulder problem. Not coincidently, it is a popular first 5.12 for boulderers and young climbers.

This climb has a cruxy and memorable start that requires body tension and reachy oppositional side pulls. After sticking a deadpoint throw, the climbing becomes progressively easier.


This route is at the left side of Left Jimmy Cliff. The start is marked by two counter-top sized slabs of rock that lie flat on the ground. Toprope and lower off of quickdraws clipped to the anchors whenever possible. Otherwise rappel off, or be lowered directly through the anchor.


3 bolts with two welded shut cold-shuts for an anchor. Stick clip the first bolt.

Photos of Things As They Are Now Slideshow Add Photo
bottom deadpoint. Photo by GO
bottom deadpoint. Photo by GO
Last tricky moves before the finishing jugs
Last tricky moves before the finishing jugs
Getting ready to shoot for the shelf. Taken by Jeff Hart.
Getting ready to shoot for the shelf. Taken by Jef...
Sticking the deadpoint
Sticking the deadpoint
Me setting up for the deadpoint
Me setting up for the deadpoint
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 22, 2013
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Feb 9, 2007

This is the only 5.12 I've done many times.... The opening moves are so cool and require such delicacy and attention to detail.... I feel like it is worth doing whenever I'm in the area....
If you haven't done it it today...ok, well it's like 15 degrees out right now so you are off the hook, but do it soon....

By Ladd Raine
From: Plymouth, NH
Apr 29, 2007
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Great climb, gotta love the bottom sequence.
Anchors could use replacement.

By adrenalated
From: Thornton, CO
Jun 28, 2007

I was surprised at how delicate and precise the opening moves are considering how dynamic the problem is. The climb is short, but good.

By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
May 12, 2008

i took a run up this route today and found it still to be seems like a few holds have broken off, cause i had to change my beta from what ive done before... still felt 5.12a but slightly different...

By James Otey
From: NH
May 12, 2008
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Yeah when I climbed it last summer there was a slightly loose sidepull that seemed to be facing imminent demise. What it left was the same size, however, and didn't change the difficulty. I just love the opening moves- sequential and delicate.

By Tim Waystrong
From: New Hampshire
May 16, 2009

I finally go through the crux and up one more move I will get this before the summer is out or sooner

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
May 18, 2009

tim man great work hope it goes soon, when i back form australia i will be sure to get on this with you

By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
May 18, 2009

i just got on this for the first time today! wicked fun! i got a little mentaly psyched out so i didnt sent but i got all the moves on it and i think it will go next time out :)

By T Seas
Dec 16, 2009

As a boulderer and timid leader new to the grade when I first climbed this, I osighted on TR and loved the climb. I came back the next day pumped to lead it. I was so excited that I stick clipped the first bolt, tied in and flashed to the anchors!

When I yelled take, I weighted the rope, and it didn't feel right. I looked down and noticed that I had tied into only my lower tie in point. I learned a valuable lesson without any pain or inverted falls. Don't get so excited for a climb you forget the basics.

I agree with all on this, really fun climb and a popular route for boulderers, with a wicked fun start. A good size reach helps too.

By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Dec 17, 2009

thanks for the story.... its always good to share your mistakes (we all make em) to help save others from making the same ones...

By Lincoln
Mar 19, 2010

Amazing climb. Great moves to great rests.

By tscupp
From: Cincinnati, OH
Mar 21, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Very fun, good move after good move. I flashed the lunge but it took me several tries just to figure out the beta for the moves after the jug so be prepared because it's not over yet!

By Matt Wilson
From: Bethel, Vermont, USA
Apr 21, 2012

Tried and failed this climb today. I felt like it was harder above the deadpoint. I got stuck there trying to move above it.

By James Otey
From: NH
Apr 24, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Interesting- I thought it was about a V4 deadpoint to a 5.10 top out

By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 25, 2012

after the dead point there are still a couple of tough crimper moves leading to jugs... i never celebrate until i hit the first big jug...

By Matt Wilson
From: Bethel, Vermont, USA
May 5, 2012

Maybe I am just using whack beta after the dead point. I was trying to utilize a high right hand sloper and a high foot on the dead point jug.

By josh villeneuve
From: Enfield, CT
Aug 8, 2012

I actually had the same problem. Kept getting through the crux no problem but fell a few times going for the jug right before the topout. My foot was on a smear chip that has tons of rubber on it, it kept cutting.

By J Meagher
Jul 22, 2013

Great route for people who climb harder on tr than on lead, because getting a toprope on this thing is no problem. I think the crux is probably the deadpoint/dyno to the sloper midway up, which is the only move i haven't gotten yet. The low sidepull is pretty loose, so watch out. Awesome moves, easy toprope setup, and not a lot of traffic... what's not to love?