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Jimmy Cliff
Routes Sorted
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Alcove Crack 
Beginning of All Things, The 
Clip a Dee Doo Dah 
Cracker Cracks 
Curl Up and Fly 
Drilling for Dollars 
Easter Squall 
Hammond Organ 
Hypocrisy 
Jimmy Crack Corn 
Junco 
Lady and the Tramp 
Lonesome Dove 
Love Nest 
Nuthatch, The 
Piece of Cake 
Pine Tree Crack 
Scare Crow 
Searchers, The 
Standard Route 
Stool Pigeon 
Teacherís Pet 
Things as They Are 
Things As They Are Now 
Things I Never Learned 
Things You Should Have Learned in Kindergarten 
To Love, Honor and Belay 
When Pigs Fly 

The Nuthatch 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Tim Gotwals
Page Views: 2,923
Submitted By: lee hansche on Feb 9, 2007
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A nice angle (but unfortunately blown out iphone p...

Description 

This route climbs up the slab in to the nice chimney just left of Hammond Organ(5.10d). The climbing is a cool combination of stemming and awkward positioning.

You may encounter some loose rock, but it is easy to avoid.

This route is a fairly new addition to the crag and is a good way to help deal with the crowds that can gather here on busy days.


Location 

On the left side of the Jimmy Cliff area, locate the chimney that divides the nice smooth featured rock of the right end (The Junco area) and the broken corner alcove to the left (Drilling for Dollars area).


Protection 

9 bolts to anchor.



Photos of The Nuthatch Slideshow Add Photo
dave getting to the top of the chimney section
dave getting to the top of the chimney section
Mike chimneying up the nice (but slightly loose) corner.
Mike chimneying up the nice (but slightly loose) c...
Nuthatch (Between To Love, Honor, and Belay and Hammond Organ).
Nuthatch (Between To Love, Honor, and Belay and Ha...
Whats with the first two very pointless bolts?!?  2nd useless bolt clipped then unclipped due to pointlessness....
Whats with the first two very pointless bolts?!? ...
Shawn Looking back out of the chimney enjoying a great day of late summer climbing
Shawn Looking back out of the chimney enjoying a g...
dave in the chimney
dave in the chimney
The chimney from afar
The chimney from afar
Comments on The Nuthatch Add Comment
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By T. Moon
Jun 22, 2007

Better than it looks. It's actually pretty fun.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 23, 2007

I agree this is a nice route...not a squeeze job as a few new Rumney routes could be called....

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Mar 25, 2009

the description says right of hammond organ it is actually left of it

this route is a very fun route at the grade, if somewhat of a grovel it is still a ton of fun with no hands rests all the way up

By MFC Boston
From: Boston, MA
Jun 2, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

A great chimney route to start warming up on. Don't forget extensions to eliminate drag. 9 bolts to LO.

By Michael Buchanan
Jun 11, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

5.7? More like 5.5 cake walk. Super fun.

By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Mar 20, 2012

It's 5.7 if you suck at chimneys (me), or 5.5 if you love them like my GF, who led it, and she definitely feels it's 5.5

By Matt Wilson
From: Bethel, Vermont, USA
Apr 19, 2012

The description says to the right of Hammond Organ, but it should read to the left.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 19, 2012

oops, fixed...

By Brendan Blanchard
From: Strafford, NH
Jun 6, 2013

A corkscrew, or turning around several times can help ease the groveling feeling.

By J Meagher
Nov 13, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Very fun stemming moves but the rock is VERY sketchy. Some of the flakes literally sound like plywood when you slap them, which I found more than a little unsettling. I would have enjoyed it a lot more if I didn't have to worry about pulling loose a death block onto people below...