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Alcove Crack 
Beginning of All Things, The 
Clip a Dee Doo Dah 
Cracker Cracks 
Curl Up and Fly 
Drilling for Dollars 
Easter Squall 
Hammond Organ 
Hypocrisy 
Jimmy Crack Corn 
Junco 
Lady and the Tramp 
Lonesome Dove 
Love Nest 
Nuthatch, The 
Piece of Cake 
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Scare Crow 
Searchers, The 
Standard Route 
Stool Pigeon 
Teacher’s Pet 
Things as They Are 
Things As They Are Now 
Things I Never Learned 
Things You Should Have Learned in Kindergarten 
To Love, Honor and Belay 
When Pigs Fly 

The Nuthatch 

5.7

   
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Type: Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus: 5.7 [details]
FA: Tim Gotwals
Submitted By: lee hansche on Feb 9, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (74)
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Nuthatch (Between To Love, Honor, and Belay and Ha...

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Description 

This route climbs up the slab in to the nice chimney just left of Hammond Organ(5.10d). The climbing is a cool combination of stemming and awkward positioning.

You may encounter some loose rock, but it is easy to avoid.

This route is a fairly new addition to the crag and is a good way to help deal with the crowds that can gather here on busy days.


Location 

On the left side of the Jimmy Cliff area, locate the chimney that divides the nice smooth featured rock of the right end (The Junco area) and the broken corner alcove to the left (Drilling for Dollars area).


Protection 

9 bolts to anchor.



Photos of The Nuthatch Slideshow Add Photo
Mike chimneying up the nice (but slightly loose) corner.

Mike chimneying up the nice (but slightly loose) c...

Whats with the first two very pointless bolts?!?  2nd useless bolt clipped then unclipped due to pointlessness....

Whats with the first two very pointless bolts?!? ...

dave in the chimney

dave in the chimney

dave getting to the top of the chimney section

dave getting to the top of the chimney section

Shawn Looking back out of the chimney enjoying a great day of late summer climbing

Shawn Looking back out of the chimney enjoying a g...

A nice angle (but unfortunately blown out iphone photo) of Sydney heading up Nuthatch.

A nice angle (but unfortunately blown out iphone p...


Comments on The Nuthatch Add Comment
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By T. Moon
Jun 22, 2007

Better than it looks. It's actually pretty fun.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 23, 2007

I agree this is a nice route...not a squeeze job as a few new Rumney routes could be called....

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Mar 25, 2009

the description says right of hammond organ it is actually left of it

this route is a very fun route at the grade, if somewhat of a grovel it is still a ton of fun with no hands rests all the way up

By MFC Boston
From: Boston, MA
Jun 2, 2010
rating: 5.7

A great chimney route to start warming up on. Don't forget extensions to eliminate drag. 9 bolts to LO.

By Michael Buchanan
Jun 11, 2011
rating: 5.6

5.7? More like 5.5 cake walk. Super fun.

By Kevin Heckeler
From: West Sand Lake, New York
Mar 20, 2012

It's 5.7 if you suck at chimneys (me), or 5.5 if you love them like my GF, who led it, and she definitely feels it's 5.5

By Matt Wilson
From: Bethel, Vermont, USA
Apr 19, 2012

The description says to the right of Hammond Organ, but it should read to the left.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 19, 2012

oops, fixed...