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i. High E
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
50-50 T 
Alpine Diversions T 
Ants' Line T 
Bonnie's Roof T 
Cool Hand Dukes  T 
Directissima T 
Directississima T 
Enduro Man's Longest Hangout T 
Ent Line T,TR 
First Trapps Chimney T 
Groovy T 
High Exposure T 
In The Groove T 
In the Silly T 
Insuhlation T 
Lichen Forty Winks T 
Nose Drops T 
Obstacle Delusion T 
Ridicullissima T 
Silly Chimney T 
Sleepwalk T 
Space Invaders T 
Teeny Face T 
Third Trapps Chimney T 
Throne, The T 
Ursula T 

Sleepwalk 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: John Waterman and Al Rubin, 1970
Page Views: 2,107
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Aug 18, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (43)
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Brendan leading Sleepwalk.

Description 

This often-overlooked route deserves more traffic, especially due to its proximity to various Gunks classics, and for its place on the low end of the difficulty scale.

Mostly an arete/slab climb, Sleepwalk does throw some pleasant vertical face traversing at the climber in the first 20 feet of the climb.

Commence this route by climbing the face about 30' to the left of the massive Ants' Line corner, just left of the tree. Traverse out left to the arete, turn the arete and balance/technique your way up the less-than-vertical face, staying within 5 feet of the arete for the majority of the pitch. End at the shared chain anchors for Ants' Line - you'll lower out over Ants'.

An alternative start is to climb the face on the same side of the arete as the rest of the route.

You can continue up from the top of P1 in several ways; the fault straight above the route is Cool Hand Duke (5.8). From the clifftop, walk right to rappel over Bonnie's Roof or left to rappel the High E line.

Location 

30 feet to the left of Ants' Line, on the face. (Note: don't continue straight up the face, as this is Ent Line, PG/R 10+)

Protection 

Standard rack.


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By Michael G
Jun 16, 2008
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

The guidebook says to stay to the face just left of the arete, but using the arete at certain points seems to make sense. Any thoughts?
By Chris Duca
From: Havertown, PA
Jul 29, 2008

Though it's been a few years since I've been on Sleepwalk, I don't recall using the arete at all. Though it probably wouldn't be considered offroute if you did, nor do I think you would be missing any spectacular piece of climb.
By SethG
Oct 27, 2009

I think this is a great "breaking into the grade" 5.7! Easyish climbing, great gear, no route finding issues, ends at bolts. Swain's guide, by the way, says to use the face and the arete, FWIW. I don't think you're violating any rules if you use it, although it really isn't necessary.

I also did the Cool Hand Dukes variation for the second pitch and it was a fun jug haul with very good rock. I think the "questionable" rock mentioned by the earlier poster is in the low angled bit before the real business of this pitch. Easily avoided.
By doligo
Jul 19, 2010

The flake that is shared with Ent's Line is loose - better not use it for pro. My cam expanded it and walked. There is also a loose triangular block at the arete right where you finish the traverse. I ran out the traverse, but that block spooked me.
By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Apr 9, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I enjoyed this climb, I agree it's a great "breaking into the grade 7". I also enjoyed Cool Hand Dukes, and I didn't see any loose rock. It has lots of jugs.

I'm not sure how to get off this climb. We did not use the rings/slings to the right; we actually down climbed to the tree and rapped to the Ants' line chains.
By JSH
Administrator
Apr 11, 2011

Gail, would it have been difficult to walk over to Bonnie's, Ursula, or the High E raps? I haven't done Cool Hand Dukes, so I don't know.
By Josh Smethers
From: Malvern, pa
Jul 7, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Great for the grade with a few thoughtful moves on the slab section after you turn the arÍte.
By Gunkiemike
Jul 24, 2014

P1 may be a good "breaking into the grade" pitch, but IMO that's because it's no harder than 5.6. Sure, you can make it harder by skipping holds, but the reality is there are good holds for every move if you just look a couple feet to either side.
By Rob Griffiths
Nov 11, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This is now one of my favorite Gunks routes and would probably be an uber classic if it had more of the Gunks "exposure." It is a great 5.7ish route and was pretty much a face climb/arete. I think i pulled on a few holds of the arete but more or less climbed the face straight up to the ants line anchor. When linked with Cool Hand Dukes (5.8), this is fantastic and runs ~170 ft. in a fairly straight line, albeit angling right. Be ready for a little more "pump" if linking the pitches, as CHD doesn't let off until the tipsy top. The gear is outstanding the entire route although a few smaller cams (C3 red and yellow) helped me at the very top of CHD. The only questionable rock was easily avoided and was found in transition between pitches.