Reed's Pinnacle Regular Route  5.9

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Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 300 feet Consensus:  5.9 [details] FA:  Wally Reed, Herb Swedlund, 1957 Submitted By:  Linnea Williams on Nov 24, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (34) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Mary leads the third pitch.

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Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>> The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This is a meandering route that features primarily 5.8 hands, stemming, etc. The highlight of the route is definitely the awesomely bizarre and incredibly fun squeeze tunnel at the third pitch. It will make you feel what it's like to be a nut jammed in a perfect constriction.

On the final pitch, once you're on the sloping ledge, don't continue up left, but traverse right onto easier ground.

You could do the last two pitches (tunnel and 5.9 hands) after topping out on Reed's Direct, if you were so inclined.

Protection 

Pro to 3.5. A No. 4 Cam will make you happier at the start of the final pitch.

Don't miss the piton in the middle of the tunnel. It's up fairly high.

Photos of Reed's Pinnacle Regular Route Slideshow

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Waiting to head into the infamous chimney.