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Reed's Pinnacle Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
11c Toprope Arete TR 
Arch OW at Bongs Away Left T 
Beyond Lunacy T 
Beyond the Fringe T 
Bong's Away Center T 
Bongs Away, Left T 
Chingando T 
Deer Route, The T 
Dr. Fun Time T 
Dream Easy T 
Ejesta T 
Flatus T 
Independence Pinnacle, Center T 
Independent Route (Independence Pinnacle left) T 
Iota, The T 
Lunatic Fringe T 
Olga's Trick T 
Phantom T 
Porter's Pout T 
Reed's Pinnacle Left T 
Reed's Pinnacle Regular Route T 
Reed's Pinnacle-Direct Route T 
Remnant, Center, The T 
Remnant-Left Side, The T 
Remnant-Right Side, The T 
Scrunchy-Mungy T 
Steppin' Out T 
Stone Groove T 

Reed's Pinnacle-Direct Route 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Last pitch:Frank Sacherer, Mark Powell, Wally Reed, Gary Colliver, Andy Lichtman, 5/64. 2nd pitch: Frank Sacherer, Wally Reed, Chris Fredericks, 6/64.
Page Views: 16,849
Submitted By: Blitzo on Sep 26, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (193)
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Rick Cashner and John Bachar, free soloing "Reed's...

Description 

A Yosemite classic!
The first pitch goes up a short crack that you step into from a ledge. It curves left near the top.
The second pitch is obvious.
The third pitch climbs a chimney/offwidth to the top of the pinnacle.
Rappel off.


Location 

Hike up the access trail. The climb is up and left.


Protection 

Pro to 3".



Photos of Reed's Pinnacle-Direct Route Slideshow Add Photo
#4 cam on Reeds direct
#4 cam on Reeds direct
Reed's Direct <br />
Reed's Direct
Telephoto of unknown climber on route; from 3 miles distant.
Telephoto of unknown climber on route; f...
Angela on the second pitch of Reeds Direct
Angela on the second pitch of Reeds Direct
The money second pitch, from the Parking area.
BETA PHOTO: The money second pitch, from the Parking area.
The second pitch
The second pitch
This horizontal chimney will take you from the top of pitch 2 over to the Regular Route finish on Reed's Pinnacle.
This horizontal chimney will take you from the top...
First pitch. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
First pitch.
Photo by Blitzo.
Reed's Pinnacle beta photo.
BETA PHOTO: Reed's Pinnacle beta photo.
Reed's Direct "Portrait."
Reed's Direct "Portrait."
Comments on Reed's Pinnacle-Direct Route Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 1, 2013
By Blitzo
Sep 27, 2006

Sorry, I ranout of space on the FA listing. The first ascent of all three pitches was by Royal Robbins, Gordon Webster and Terry Burnell, 10/66.

By Adam Steel
From: Salt Lake City
Jan 14, 2007

Pro with standard rack can be less than easy. 3rd pitch, not climbed as often, is what gives the route the 10a rating. It is a 10a wide, however. One #5 Camalot should see you through.

By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
Apr 22, 2007

Not easy to slow down and place a lot of pro on the second pitch.

First two pitches can be run together for one hell of a pitch.

We used one #4 Camalot on the wide section at the top of p2. Felt safe.

By Joe Stern
Dec 20, 2007

An entertaining way to finish the route is to tunnel over to the Regular Route finish from the top of the second pitch. From the top of pitch 2, enter the horizontal chimney to the left. There are one or two pitons in there, and about 20 or 30 feet of squeeze chimneying will take you to a ledge on the other side of the pinnacle. Belay here and then take the 5.9 hands to fists to offwidth corner to the top of the pinnacle. Rappel Reed's Direct.

By Osprey
From: ...
Apr 2, 2010

From the Chains at the bottom of Bong's away Left, you only need one rope to rap. From the chains, rap to the large ledge. From the chains on the end of the narrow section of the ledge, make one rap to the ground.

By daniel c
From: San Francisco, CA
Jun 7, 2010

Found sunglasses on the final rap of Reed's Direct on 6/6/10. Email me if you think they are yours and I'll mail them to you.

By Jeff Scheuerell
Jan 22, 2011

An older 3.5 C4 or new #4 C4 is the biggest peice you need on the third pitch. Just above the 3.4 or 4 there is a chockstone you can sling with a doubble length runner if you need to.

By Jeff Scheuerell
Jan 22, 2011

Hexes are nice on p2

By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Mar 31, 2012

Not a move harder than 5.8, right?

By CJC
Feb 1, 2013

3rd pitch is burly for a 10a

By Ian M.
May 1, 2013

Awesome route. P1 is a great, mellow crack arcing to the left, spiciest right off the start. P2 is the meat; steep, wavy crack with great constrictions. Steepness makes it hard to rest long without tiring. If you wanna feel super secure bring triples in the #1-#3 size. #4 is nice for the OW and having two was fantastic. It actually takes nuts (and hexes) really well.

Did the tunnel through. Gotta be fit to squeeze through and make sure you move up and down during the chimney traverse to find the wider spots.

TR'd the 10a finish by chimneying the beginning 5.5 start, which was mellow. A couple pins protect up higher and it seems like a #5 would be nice between the last pin and the top out. I'd say it's similar difficulty to some portions of Steck-Salathe but given the limited pro, I'd want to be comfortable on Steck before leading this pitch.

Rapped from the chains on climbers right on the ledge at top of P2 (below Bongs Away Left) on a single rope to the bottom, attached our second rope at the base, and had my partner do the double rope rap. Was pretty fast.