|Reed's Pinnacle Area
Reed's Pinnacle-Direct Route
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Good page? (2 likes)
|Type: ||Trad, 3 pitches|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA: ||Last pitch:Frank Sacherer, Mark Powell, Wally Reed, Gary Colliver, Andy Lichtman, 5/64. 2nd pitch: Frank Sacherer, Wally Reed, Chris Fredericks, 6/64.|
|Submitted By: ||Blitzo on Sep 26, 2006|
Rick Cashner and John Bachar, free soloing "Reed's...
A Yosemite classic!
The first pitch goes up a short crack that you step into from a ledge. It curves left near the top.
The second pitch is obvious.
The third pitch climbs a chimney/offwidth to the top of the pinnacle.
Hike up the access trail. The climb is up and left.
Pro to 3".
|Photos of Reed's Pinnacle-Direct Route Slideshow
Photo by Blitzo.
The second pitch
This horizontal chimney will take you from the top...
Angela on the second pitch of Reeds Direct
#4 cam on Reeds direct
BETA PHOTO: The money second pitch, from the Parking area.
Telephoto of unknown climber on route; f...
BETA PHOTO: Reed's Pinnacle beta photo.
Reed's Direct "Portrait."
|Comments on Reed's Pinnacle-Direct Route
Sep 27, 2006
Sorry, I ranout of space on the FA listing. The first ascent of all three pitches was by Royal Robbins, Gordon Webster and Terry Burnell, 10/66.
|By Adam Steel|
From: Salt Lake City
Jan 14, 2007
Pro with standard rack can be less than easy. 3rd pitch, not climbed as often, is what gives the route the 10a rating. It is a 10a wide, however. One #5 Camalot should see you through.
From: Oakland, CA
Apr 22, 2007
Not easy to slow down and place a lot of pro on the second pitch.
First two pitches can be run together for one hell of a pitch.
We used one #4 Camalot on the wide section at the top of p2. Felt safe.
|By Joe Stern|
Dec 20, 2007
An entertaining way to finish the route is to tunnel over to the Regular Route finish from the top of the second pitch. From the top of pitch 2, enter the horizontal chimney to the left. There are one or two pitons in there, and about 20 or 30 feet of squeeze chimneying will take you to a ledge on the other side of the pinnacle. Belay here and then take the 5.9 hands to fists to offwidth corner to the top of the pinnacle. Rappel Reed's Direct.
Apr 2, 2010
From the Chains at the bottom of Bong's away Left, you only need one rope to rap. From the chains, rap to the large ledge. From the chains on the end of the narrow section of the ledge, make one rap to the ground.
|By daniel c|
From: San Francisco, CA
Jun 7, 2010
Found sunglasses on the final rap of Reed's Direct on 6/6/10. Email me if you think they are yours and I'll mail them to you.
|By Jeff Scheuerell|
Jan 22, 2011
An older 3.5 C4 or new #4 C4 is the biggest peice you need on the third pitch. Just above the 3.4 or 4 there is a chockstone you can sling with a doubble length runner if you need to.
|By Adam Stackhouse|
Mar 31, 2012
Not a move harder than 5.8, right?
Feb 1, 2013
3rd pitch is burly for a 10a
|By Ian M.|
May 1, 2013
Awesome route. P1 is a great, mellow crack arcing to the left, spiciest right off the start. P2 is the meat; steep, wavy crack with great constrictions. Steepness makes it hard to rest long without tiring. If you wanna feel super secure bring triples in the #1-#3 size. #4 is nice for the OW and having two was fantastic. It actually takes nuts (and hexes) really well.
Did the tunnel through. Gotta be fit to squeeze through and make sure you move up and down during the chimney traverse to find the wider spots.
TR'd the 10a finish by chimneying the beginning 5.5 start, which was mellow. A couple pins protect up higher and it seems like a #5 would be nice between the last pin and the top out. I'd say it's similar difficulty to some portions of Steck-Salathe but given the limited pro, I'd want to be comfortable on Steck before leading this pitch.
Rapped from the chains on climbers right on the ledge at top of P2 (below Bongs Away Left) on a single rope to the bottom, attached our second rope at the base, and had my partner do the double rope rap. Was pretty fast.