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Black Wall
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One Hand Clapping 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 500'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Peter Hann - 1972
Page Views: 16,114
Submitted By: Paul Rezucha on Jun 25, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (119)
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Sallie at the top of the first pitch.

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  • Description 

    One Hand Clapping starts on a ledge on the main Black Wall face below an obvious tall, twin crack system slanting right. Climb the twin cracks requiring good hand jamming techniques (5.8) and continue up to a belay with bolted anchors. Climb the steep, thin crack above to a slab. Continue up and left (a little runout here) and continue up and left through a steep, weird, intimidating, slanting left flaring corner. Getting around the end of the corner, over the bulge, and onto the face is the 5.9 crux. From here you can continue up and left on easier face climbing to the large Lizard ledge. A fun alternative is to step right to a cool, small, exposed ledge and belay. We had 4 people on this ledge which was very cozy indeed! Climb straight up on a fairly difficult crack/slab to Lizard ledge. The final, long 5.6 pitch has a surprising, tricky section about 50' up. This is a must do climb! Lots of good solid fun climbing! I would say though that the leader should be a very solid 5.9/5.10 climber as there are sections that are strenous, tricky, and a little difficult to properly protect!

    Protection 

    This route is fairly well protected using a standard rack. Belays have adequate anchors and/or placements. The second pitch is a bit runout on the face after the short thin crack. It's not too difficult but care should be taken.


    Photos of One Hand Clapping Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Naoko working up the crack on the first pitch.
    Naoko working up the crack on the first pitch.
    Rock Climbing Photo: A shot at the left slanting flared corner on pitch...
    A shot at the left slanting flared corner on pitch...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Photo shows belays with the optional belay near th...
    Photo shows belays with the optional belay near th...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Naoko just starting the first pitch crux section.
    Naoko just starting the first pitch crux section.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Aerili warming up on One Hand Clapping.  May 2012 ...
    Aerili warming up on One Hand Clapping. May 2012 ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Paul on pitch one approaching the 5.8 steep hand j...
    Paul on pitch one approaching the 5.8 steep hand j...
    Rock Climbing Photo: First part (thin crack) of P2, photo by Mike Hende...
    First part (thin crack) of P2, photo by Mike Hende...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Two happy campers now that they've topped out the ...
    Two happy campers now that they've topped out the ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: 2nd pitch with person on 1st belay, one at the bul...
    BETA PHOTO: 2nd pitch with person on 1st belay, one at the bul...

    Comments on One Hand Clapping Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By John Korfmacher
    From: Fort Collins, CO
    Dec 15, 2005
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    NOBODY has posted yet on this route?! That's amazing. I am honored to be the first sprayer. I first climbed (rather, I was hauled up) this route with Catherine Davis in 1998. I was a newbie at the time and swore if I could ever lead the crux, I would consider myself a real climber. I have climbed it numerous times since, mostly with Mike Henderson of Reno. I finally led it in 2001. We like the route so much we call ourselves the One Hand Clapping Climbing Club. If you only climb one route on Donner, do this one.

    P1 is the coolest 5.8 crack you will ever climb. Be sparing with pro early on the first pitch, as it's easy to run out of #2-#3 Camalot size stuff toward the top. Save your #10 stopper for the bottom of the double crack system. Fun fun fun pitch.

    P2 (crux) pitch is strenuous and scary, although the protection is very good. The reason for the name of the route will become obvious about halfway up. Stay on the 5.9 ground or prepare to pay the penalty; a friend of mine got off route, broke his ankle, and climbed no higher than the edge of his couch for the rest of the season. This pitch feels harder than it really is, and will raise the heart rate of even experienced leaders.

    P3 is fairly easy, but fun also. Descend and treat yourself to Tacos Jalisco.
    By 426
    Mar 6, 2007

    Super route. You can rap down to the anchors of Firecracker from the top of the second to get off easily...
    By Aerili
    From: Los Alamos, NM
    Jun 21, 2009
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    For pitch 1, take doubles of #2 and #3 Cams. You may be tempted to use a couple of em on the initial easy but long rampy start, but try to hold back and save them for that steep headwall up higher and the finishing run toward the anchors (which is easy climbing but slightly awkward...at least one #3 will probably be wanted there). Smaller pro can be found to the left of the 2-3" crack on the start.
    By Sam Prentice
    Aug 2, 2010

    Agreed as above, P1 is among the best 5.8 crack pitches you'll ever climb. It can be rapped with two ropes.
    By Scott T
    From: Alpine Meadows, CA
    May 6, 2011

    I had nasty rope drag extending P2 to Lizard Ledge. Highly recommend the ledge belay just after the crux. Your experience may vary, though!

    If just doing P2 then rapping off, I'd suggest shedding some weight and leaving a bunch of cams at the chains atop P1. I used 1 #2 Camalot, and doubles smallest cam to .5 Camalot on P2. No need for doubles of 1, 2, and 3 Camalots...which sure are handy on P1:)
    By YDPL8S
    From: Santa Monica, Ca.
    Jul 5, 2011

    Was just reading a thread over on Supertopo that said the FA was Peter Haan - 1972.

    edit: oops! I guess it was Peter Haan, but not THE Peter Haan of Yosemite fame, from the horses mouth.
    By Evan Riley
    From: San Francisco, CA
    Jul 20, 2013
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    Topped out in 2 70m pitches. Not quite rope stretches. For P1 belay above the slab below that weird corner crux thing. P2 goes all the way to the rap rings on the summit. When climbing P2 use double length runners (or 2 single length slings) on your pieces through the crux and it will go clean with little rope drag. We walked off. Would love some descent beta, the Manzanita thrash on the way down was hilarious.
    By Patrick Mulligan
    Feb 23, 2015

    The walk off on this thing is pretty apparent. Just follow the trail through the manzanita off and to the south of the formation.
    By Tyson Waldron
    From: Reno, NV
    Aug 30, 2015

    You can rap with a 70m from lizard ledge. You rap to the Bliss anchors, and then either to the ground, or, better yet hop on Bliss or Skywalker. You could also rap to the ground and leave the rope up so you can TR there goes the neighborhood, which is excellent.

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