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Reed's Pinnacle Area
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11c Toprope Arete 
Arch OW at Bongs Away Left 
Beyond Lunacy 
Beyond the Fringe 
Bong's Away Center 
Bongs Away, Left 
Deer Route, The 
Dr. Fun Time 
Dream Easy 
Independence Pinnacle, Center 
Independent Route (Independence Pinnacle left) 
Iota, The 
Lunatic Fringe 
Olga's Trick 
Porter's Pout 
Reed's Pinnacle Left 
Reed's Pinnacle Regular Route 
Reed's Pinnacle-Direct Route 
Remnant, Center, The 
Remnant-Left Side, The 
Remnant-Right Side, The 
Steppin' Out 
Stone Groove 

Lunatic Fringe 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Barry Bates and Bev Johnson 1971
Page Views: 8,400
Submitted By: Nate Weitzel on Oct 8, 2006
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Jeff Crow cranks through the final moves of Lunati...
Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>>


My favorite line on this wall. Lunatic is a varied climb that has many different cruxes, so depending on your strengths you will likely find a different crux than your partner. Fantastic rock that demands finger locks, liebacking, thin hands and some face moves. Well protected throughout.


Hike right from Reeds Direct along the base for 100 yards or so. Climb a 5.6 section for 20-30 feet to gain the thin hands first crux of this route.


Standard rack, consider double set of cams from fingers to large hand sizes. Double Rope rappel.

Photos of Lunatic Fringe Slideshow Add Photo
Lunatic fringe: the last 10 ft.
Lunatic fringe: the last 10 ft.
Anna entering the final crux.
Anna entering the final crux.
Lunatic Fringe, from the base
BETA PHOTO: Lunatic Fringe, from the base
Comments on Lunatic Fringe Add Comment
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By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
Apr 22, 2007

One of the best single pitches anywhere. Done it four times and no plans to stop going back.

Edit to add: this is a very good climb to push your limits on, as the protection is great throughout. Also, it begins with a moderate section, affords several rests, and is steep so that any fall in the crux sections should be cleen and airy.

By M.Morley
From: Sacramento, CA
Aug 16, 2007

A candidate for the best single pitch for the grade in the Valley! Absolutely classic!

By mschlocker
From: San Diego, CA
May 13, 2008

If this is at your limit consider triples on hand sized pieces. It's long and sustained in the upper portion.

By Rob Dillon
Apr 18, 2009

80m rope will just barely reach to TR.

By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
May 18, 2009

If you don't have hand sized pieces left for the pods at the top, the pods pinch down in between, allowing great stoppers and small cams.

By Osprey
From: ...
Nov 30, 2009

Do this climb with one 70m rope by rappelling to the bushy ledge on the right side. Pull your rope and let it fall to the ground, then exit the ledge to the right and walk back around to the start.

By chuck claude
From: Flagstaff, Az
Jan 14, 2010
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Its a decent to good climb but IMHO there are much better climbs and pitches in the Valley (ie: the Rostrum being one of them and most of the stuff at the Cookie being as good). Having said that it is a very good climb to sink your jams into