Hammond Organ 5.10d
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.10c/d [details] |
| FA: | Scott Stevenson 5/95 |
| Submitted By: | lee hansche on Feb 9, 2007 |
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BETA PHOTO: Jimmy Cliff, Right End.
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Description Start up the slab where there used to be a sketchy ladder made of sticks. Go up the vertical part which is like Junco but harder. Pull a fun mantle move and be happy, you are half way there, though the crux awaits. Move through some tricky delicate slab climbing which scares sport climbers (who are not used to slab climbing) every day. The climbing here is like Lonesome Dove but harder.
Apparently, you can move left to grab the edge of the chimney to your left, but I've always avoided the left edge and gone straight for the top (the direct I hear is 5.11).
However, you do the crux expect fun climbing, on perfect rock and a beautiful view. The fact that it is similar to Junco and Lonesome Dove means it is going to kick ass.
Location Just left of Junco and right of the chimney of Nut Hatch.
Protection Originally 5 bolts to quick clips, but recently bolts have been added to the bottom slab section.
Just past the crux on Hammond Organ. The climber ...
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Climber on the left is on Hammond Organ (.10d) and...
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Lee on Hammond's
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"The Imaginary Hold" - Arnaud determined to nail t...
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| Comments on Hammond Organ |
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By BTodd
May 26, 2008
| A lot of fun and a tough crux at the top (either way you do it, right or left). I also saw someone whip when they didn't make the mantle move - it was a long fall, because the belayer was pulled up the wall...might want to make sure a smaller belayer is tied in or something |
By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Jun 16, 2009
rating: 5.10b/c
| This route is in the old guide book at .10d. Rightfully so when the bottom bolts where to the left of where they are now I bet it was .10d (They got moved to the better line about 3 feet right). I suck at grading, but i've been told it's now .10b, maybe .10c and I feel like that's right on. Either way, fin climb and don't underestimate it cause there's some thin but good moves. |
By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Jun 16, 2009
| this route looks so non threatening from the ground but i know as soon as i get up into the buisness im gonna be like.... damn.... |
By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Jun 17, 2009
rating: 5.10b/c
| The crux, for me, is all mental, and super well protected so check it out |
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Aug 4, 2009
rating: 5.10d
| I feel it is still .10d because the crux is still the same, and I agree a very mental crux on great face climbing. |
By S. Neoh
May 6, 2012
| I did the route today by heading left to the arete at the fifth bolt. Pretty nice with just one thin move. Mid 5.10 is my guess for grade this way. As for the mantle, if you are half way decent with slopers, the insure mantle move can be totally avoided with some creative high step. |
By Peter Jackson
From: Rumney, NH
May 19, 2012
rating: 5.10d
| First time on this route today. Very impressed. I liked it better than Lonesome Dove, though not more than Junco. The crux was a puzzler, but I got it worked out trying a few different sequences. Very nice. Recommended. |
By Jason Scott Heacock
Nov 28, 2012
| I sent this route first go this past summer and was super impressed with the moves, but i went right up the bulge (after the mantle) and it seemed 5.11 for sure.... Skip the flake out left, and avoided the awkward seeming out right, then left sequence. Love this cliff jimmy! |
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