This sensational pitch, formerly called Space Invaders II, parallels the last pitch of Outer Space, about 25 feet to the left. The simplest and fastest approach is to get to the top of the third pitch of the Bastille Crack, belay, and then launch out right along the stratum (~20') to a short, left-facing dihedral. A line of ring bolts straight up the steep wall above marks the route. There are two hard sections separated by a good rest with a knee-lock. The lower section (.11b/c) just gets you warmed up for the upper crux. You'll execute a series of intricate moves in a short distance in order to set up for the balancy crux moves. Look for a hidden pocket/dish and then make a couple of big moves to finish it off onto a flat ledge. From here the route joins the original Space Invaders at .11a, past 3 more bolts (plus small gear) to the top. Concerning the rating, the Eldo guide calls the route .12c/d but nowhere is it any harder than .12b. The crux is kind of involved but the moves are not hard 5.12. Using Genesis (.12c) as a yardstick, H&A should be rated quite a bit easier. Perhaps the stiff rating is more a result of the amazing exposure rather than the actual moves. One of the things that make this route so fun is that it is very well protected. Combine that with its stunning setting and aesthetic positions, and you've got one of the best pitches in the canyon. If you climb 5.12 and crave exposure, then this is a must-do route!
Protection
10 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. Gear needed for approach pitches.
By Hank Caylor Administrator From: Left Hand Canyon, CO Jan 31, 2009
This route would see way more traffic if it had belay anchors. It's a total pain to rig a belay, unless both climbers climb 12b/c and the second can remove all the crap. A big loose rock is in the way of your feet at the belay as well. It would drop straight down Bastille Crack.
I assume you mean the belay at the start of the pitch? I seem to remember not having too much trouble finding gear there... but we always approached by rapping in from above and setting up the anchor at a natural starting point just up and left from one of the Bastille Crack belays.
When I was working this route, one of my partners, who will remain unnamed and happened to be wearing my bright orange down jacket, had to relieve himself while I was climbing. Despite my protests he proceeded to urinate right into the Bastille Crack. A few days later I walked into the BRC and a few staff members jokingly chided "way to go pissing all over the most popular climb in Boulder last weekend!"
A good way to set up for this route is to belay about one third of the way up the second pitch of Outer Space, below the start of the prominent dihedral. This belay takes smallish gear, TCUs, nuts, etc. From there, climb the dihedral on Outer Space with some long slings, and then cut left onto the bolts of Hairstyles and Attitudes. Using this method you can take this pitch all the way to the top of the Bastille, and it's one of the best pitches in Eldo!
FYI: I obtained a permit to re-bolt this route (the old bolts will be removed and new 1/2" bolts as close as is safe to the old holes). However, due to a little power drill drama last week there is currently only one new bolt at the top of the route. Hopefully a new drill or battery pack will magically appear and the changing of the bolts may continue.
By Scott Bennett From: Superior, CO May 14, 2009 rating: 5.12 R
Glad someone is replacing the bolts on this thing, those old ones are annoyingly hard to clip!
One question/concern though: I noticed there's a quicklink and rap ring on the new anchor bolt. Do you think the top anchor needs to be equipped for rapping? I can't really see any reason why you'd need to rap here, and if you're rapping in to approach the pitch, you can just hang a couple draws and retrieve them when you top out. I guess my concern is that someone with limited knowledge of the route/area will see the anchors and attempt to rap down to the ground, which would be tough. I know the anchors are not super visible from the summit, so it probably won't be a problem, but there doesn't seem to be a reason for having them equipped for raps at all.
Again, thanks a ton for the volunteer work, I don't want to be negative, just thought I'd raise the question. -Scott
By Scott Bennett From: Superior, CO May 18, 2009 rating: 5.12 R
Also, maybe replacing the bolts is not all that necessary... I went out today with my friend Matt and sent this route sans bolts, all gear. It's not really super runout, I did TR a few times first, but it could probably be done ground-up by a 5.12 climber. It actually felt easier this way, since you don't have to clip any bolts during the crux.
I belayed Scott on the all gear send today, it was sick!! He ran it out 20 feet on a so so number 6... that's right, you heard me, he climbed that bitch with a number six swinging from his harness. Good work, Holmes.
This route has been equipped with new, 1/2" and 3 1/2" bolts. Not all the old ring bolts have been removed, and will be within a month or so. The bolts were replaced as they were first installed, with rap rings at the top and one new bolt at the belay from below.
*ALSO**, a new, bright yellow static rope is "MISSING." I left it up there for over 2 weeks in the dark, deep recess/crack at the top-out. pls. return this to the ranger station or email me.
If it was stolen, WOW and good karma to you.....and it's actually a dynamic rope so you should go out and take some whippers.
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