Jeff Crow cranks through the final moves of Lunati...
Description
My favorite line on this wall. Lunatic is a varied climb that has many different cruxes, so depending on your strengths you will likely find a different crux than your partner. Fantastic rock that demands finger locks, liebacking, thin hands and some face moves. Well protected throughout.
Location
Hike right from Reeds Direct along the base for 100 yards or so. Climb a 5.6 section for 20-30 feet to gain the thin hands first crux of this route.
Protection
Standard rack, consider double set of cams from fingers to large hand sizes. Double Rope rappel.
One of the best single pitches anywhere. Done it four times and no plans to stop going back.
Edit to add: this is a very good climb to push your limits on, as the protection is great throughout. Also, it begins with a moderate section, affords several rests, and is steep so that any fall in the crux sections should be cleen and airy.
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Aug 16, 2007
A candidate for the best single pitch for the grade in the Valley! Absolutely classic!
Reed's Pinnacle Area
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