5.8 Crag is a somewhat shady crag at the base of Rattlesnake Mountain that is visible from the road. Due to its proximity to the road, 5.8 Crag is well traveled and popular with large groups of topropers. The Main Cliff and the upper crags are also easily reached via a "secret" (sshhh!) trail that ascends from the far right end of this crag, making 5.8 Crag a good choice for the cranksters who want to warm up en route to the "proj."
Those hoping 5.8 Crag will live up to its name will not be disappointed, however about half of climbs here range from 5.10 to 5.12. If approaching from the road, the first route you will see is Romancing The Stone (5.10c), which ascend to the right of a blunt arete before launching into a pumpy traverse and overhanging jug haul.
The gently overhanging wall to the right of Romancing The Stone is home to the wall's only 5.12 and a side-by-side set of 5.11s. For the most part the climbs become progressively less steep and easier as you move left of Romancing the Stone. Notable climbs here include a 5.7 hand crack that is protected with gear and two 5.8s that have one or two interesting moves.
Park at either lot (but never on the road!) and follow the main trail that parallels the road west out of the small lot. Continue straight past the wooden stairs, crossing a small foot bridge and in a couple minutes you are there.
Weather station 10.1 miles from here
21 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',14],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in 5.8 Crag
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in 5.8 Crag
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for 5.8 Crag:
Sky Pilot 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch
Featured Route For 5.8 Crag
Pump Up the Volume 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b NH
: 5.8 Crag
An appropriately named route, fighting the pump is the red point crux as each move tends to be easier than the last, but by the end of the climb, you could swear that the moves are getting harder. The route starts from a ledge that heads out left from the start of Sky Pilot (5.11b). Stick clip the first bolt and climb right in to the crux, a sequency series of tiny crimps and footwork leading to better holds and less technical climbing, but you will get pumped unless you are a tough girl (or boy...[more] Browse More Classics in NH
BETA PHOTO: A map of the right (harder) side of 5.8 Crag...
crackheadNH on a lower standing platform on the 5....
Jeff on the popular, Romancing the Stone 5.10c
BETA PHOTO: a map of the middle buttress of 5.8 crag...
BETA PHOTO: i left out a couple linkups and obscurities but he...
BETA PHOTO: 5.8 crag left side
By Aaron L.
Jul 14, 2011
There is a fairly large wasp nest about two thirds of the way up the chimney on the left side. Take care not to disturb it when climbing the chimney or the adjacent routes.