Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
5.8 Crag

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.8 Crack by the Road, The T 
Arm and Hammer S 
Asbury Park S 
Blue Spotted Tail TR 
Blueballs at Christmas T 
Bolt And Run S 
Central Park TR 
Chimney of Doom T 
Granny's Route S 
License to Ill T 
Milksnake T 
Milktoast S 
Moe Pup Sensation S 
Only a Crow S 
Pump Up the Volume S 
Raven S 
Romancing The Snake T 
Romancing the Stone S 
Sky Pilot T,S 
Snake Skin Slab S 
Terrace, The S 

5.8 Crag  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Page Views: 35,020
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Patrick Bagley on Oct 23, 2006
Forecast:
Tue Wed Thu Fri Sat
Clear
65° | 40°
Clear
65° | 45°
Mostly Cloudy
67° | 47°
Clear
75° | 51°
Clear
77° | 52°
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [2 people like this page.]
Know the location? Show us! We need it for cool new features!

Note: New route moratorium area. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

5.8 Crag is a somewhat shady crag at the base of Rattlesnake Mountain that is visible from the road. Due to its proximity to the road, 5.8 Crag is well traveled and popular with large groups of topropers. The Main Cliff and the upper crags are also easily reached via a "secret" (sshhh!) trail that ascends from the far right end of this crag, making 5.8 Crag a good choice for the cranksters who want to warm up en route to the "proj."

Those hoping 5.8 Crag will live up to its name will not be disappointed, however about half of climbs here range from 5.10 to 5.12. If approaching from the road, the first route you will see is Romancing The Stone (5.10c), which ascend to the right of a blunt arete before launching into a pumpy traverse and overhanging jug haul.

The gently overhanging wall to the right of Romancing The Stone is home to the wall's only 5.12 and a side-by-side set of 5.11s. For the most part the climbs become progressively less steep and easier as you move left of Romancing the Stone. Notable climbs here include a 5.7 hand crack that is protected with gear and two 5.8s that have one or two interesting moves.

Getting There 

Park at either lot (but never on the road!) and walk down the road with the Baker River on your left. After the road bends right, you will see an obvious trail on the right hand side of the road. At the mouth of this trail you should see an engraved wooden sign that says "5.8 Crag." Walk up the trail past this sign and viola, there you are.

Climbing Season



Weather station 10.0 miles from here

21 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',12],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',3],['5.8',4],['5.9',2],['5.10',6],['5.11',4],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for 5.8 Crag:
The 5.8 Crack by the Road   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch   
Moe Pup Sensation   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport   
Snake Skin Slab   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch   
Bolt And Run   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch   
Romancing the Stone   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Milktoast   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport   
License to Ill   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R     Trad, 1 pitch   
Arm and Hammer   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch   
Sky Pilot   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch   
Blueballs at Christmas   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R     Trad, 1 pitch   
Pump Up the Volume   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch   
Browse More Classics in 5.8 Crag

Featured Route For 5.8 Crag
Bolt and Run (left), 5.8 Crack by the Road (right).

Bolt And Run 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  NH : Rumney : 5.8 Crag
Climb up and over a few steep bulges trending left. Fun climbing leads to a confounding crux that most people solve by moving left and using a few holds on the corner. If you climb this section directly, it might bump up the grade a smidge. But it is more fun to do it at 5.9. The crux involves a big move to an incut crimp that is often tick-marked. Being the only 5.9 at the crag, it is also the best 5.9 at the crag so make sure you climb it. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Photos of 5.8 Crag Slideshow Add Photo
Jeff on the popular, Romancing the Stone 5.10c
Jeff on the popular, Romancing the Stone 5.10c
crackheadNH on a lower standing platform on the 5.8 Crack By The Road(actually 5.7) at Rumney
crackheadNH on a lower standing platform on the 5....
a map of the middle buttress of 5.8 crag...
BETA PHOTO: a map of the middle buttress of 5.8 crag...
i left out a couple linkups and obscurities but here is the meat of the cliff...
BETA PHOTO: i left out a couple linkups and obscurities but he...
A map of the right (harder) side of 5.8 Crag...
BETA PHOTO: A map of the right (harder) side of 5.8 Crag...
5.8 crag left side
BETA PHOTO: 5.8 crag left side

Comments on 5.8 Crag Add Comment
Show which comments
By Aaron L.
Jul 14, 2011
CONDITION REPORT 
There is a fairly large wasp nest about two thirds of the way up the chimney on the left side. Take care not to disturb it when climbing the chimney or the adjacent routes.