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5.8 Crag Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in 5.8 Crag

L › R R › L A › Z

	5.8 Crack by the Road, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Arm and Hammer S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Asbury Park S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Blue Spotted Tail TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Blueballs at Christmas T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
	Bolt And Run S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Central Park TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Chimney of Doom T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Granny's Route S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	License to Ill T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
	Milksnake T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Milktoast S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Moe Pup Sensation S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Only a Crow S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Pump Up the Volume S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Raven S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Romancing The Snake T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Romancing the Stone S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Sky Pilot S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Snake Skin Slab S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Terrace, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

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Elevation:	646 ft	197 m
GPS:	43.80105, -71.83823 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	95,759 total · 411/month
Shared By:	Patrick Bagley on Oct 23, 2006
Admins:	Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area. Details

See: climbrumney.com/rumney-info…

Description

5.8 Crag is a somewhat shady crag at the base of Rattlesnake Mountain that is visible from the road. Due to its proximity to the road, 5.8 Crag is well traveled and popular with large groups of topropers. The Main Cliff and the upper crags are also easily reached via a "secret" (sshhh!) trail that ascends from the far right end of this crag, making 5.8 Crag a good choice for the cranksters who want to warm up en route to the "proj."

Those hoping 5.8 Crag will live up to its name will not be disappointed, however about half of climbs here range from 5.10 to 5.12. If approaching from the road, the first route you will see is Romancing The Stone (5.10c), which ascend to the right of a blunt arete before launching into a pumpy traverse and overhanging jug haul.

The gently overhanging wall to the right of Romancing The Stone is home to the wall's only 5.12 and a side-by-side set of 5.11s. For the most part the climbs become progressively less steep and easier as you move left of Romancing the Stone. Notable climbs here include a 5.7 hand crack that is protected with gear and two 5.8s that have one or two interesting moves.

Getting There

Park at either lot (but never on the road!) and follow the main trail that parallels the road west out of the small lot. Continue straight past the wooden stairs, crossing a small foot bridge and in a couple minutes you are there.

21 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at 5.8 Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 197 ● The 5.8 Crack by the Road Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 411 ● Snake Skin Slab Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 197 ● Moe Pup Sensation Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 423 ● Bolt And Run Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 29 ● Romancing The Snake Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 502 ● Romancing the Stone Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 206 ● Milktoast Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R 41 ● License to Ill Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 223 ● Sky Pilot Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R 18 ● Blueballs at Christmas Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 164 ● Arm and Hammer Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 157 ● Pump Up the Volume Sport