5.8 Crag is a somewhat shady crag at the base of Rattlesnake Mountain that is visible from the road. Due to its proximity to the road, 5.8 Crag is well traveled and popular with large groups of topropers. The Main Cliff and the upper crags are also easily reached via a "secret" (sshhh!) trail that ascends from the far right end of this crag, making 5.8 Crag a good choice for the cranksters who want to warm up en route to the "proj."
Those hoping 5.8 Crag will live up to its name will not be disappointed, however about half of climbs here range from 5.10 to 5.12. If approaching from the road, the first route you will see is Romancing The Stone (5.10c), which ascend to the right of a blunt arete before launching into a pumpy traverse and overhanging jug haul.
The gently overhanging wall to the right of Romancing The Stone is home to the wall's only 5.12 and a side-by-side set of 5.11s. For the most part the climbs become progressively less steep and easier as you move left of Romancing the Stone. Notable climbs here include a 5.7 hand crack that is protected with gear and two 5.8s that have one or two interesting moves.
Park at either lot (but never on the road!) and follow the main trail that parallels the road west out of the small lot. Continue straight past the wooden stairs, crossing a small foot bridge and in a couple minutes you are there.
Weather station 10.1 miles from here
21 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',14],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in 5.8 Crag
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in 5.8 Crag
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for 5.8 Crag:
Sky Pilot 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch
Featured Route For 5.8 Crag
Romancing the Stone 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b NH
: 5.8 Crag
Romancing the Stone is the most distinguishable climbs at 5.8 Crag, as is follows the first line you see as you approach the cliff. The first third of the climb is characterized by technical 5.10 face climbing that is punctuated by an exit move on the "romancing stone," an brick sized tooth that has been wobbly for as long as anyone can remember. In the immortal advice of Tenacious D, use this hold "gently." A rest of sorts can be found before launching into a pumpy traverse and jug haul to the ...[more] Browse More Classics in NH
BETA PHOTO: A map of the right (harder) side of 5.8 Crag...
crackheadNH on a lower standing platform on the 5....
Jeff on the popular, Romancing the Stone 5.10c
BETA PHOTO: a map of the middle buttress of 5.8 crag...
BETA PHOTO: i left out a couple linkups and obscurities but he...
BETA PHOTO: 5.8 crag left side
Jul 14, 2011
There is a fairly large wasp nest about two thirds of the way up the chimney on the left side. Take care not to disturb it when climbing the chimney or the adjacent routes.