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5.8 Crag

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.8 Crack by the Road, The 
Arm and Hammer 
Asbury Park 
Blue Spotted Tail 
Blueballs at Christmas 
Bolt And Run 
Central Park 
Chimney of Doom 
Granny's Route 
License to Ill 
Milksnake 
Milktoast 
Moe Pup Sensation 
Only a Crow 
Pump Up the Volume 
Raven 
Romancing The Snake 
Romancing the Stone 
Sky Pilot 
Snake Skin Slab 
Terrace, The 
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Description 

5.8 Crag is a somewhat shady crag at the base of Rattlesnake Mountain that is visible from the road. Due to its proximity to the road, 5.8 Crag is well traveled and popular with large groups of topropers. The Main Cliff and the upper crags are also easily reached via a "secret" (sshhh!) trail that ascends from the far right end of this crag, making 5.8 Crag a good choice for the cranksters who want to warm up en route to the "proj."

Those hoping 5.8 Crag will live up to its name will not be disappointed, however about half of climbs here range from 5.10 to 5.12. If approaching from the road, the first route you will see is Romancing The Stone (5.10c), which ascend to the right of a blunt arete before launching into a pumpy traverse and overhanging jug haul.

The gently overhanging wall to the right of Romancing The Stone is home to the wall's only 5.12 and a side-by-side set of 5.11s. For the most part the climbs become progressively less steep and easier as you move left of Romancing the Stone. Notable climbs here include a 5.7 hand crack that is protected with gear and two 5.8s that have one or two interesting moves.


Getting There 

Park at either lot (but never on the road!) and walk down the road with the Baker River on your left. After the road bends right, you will see an obvious trail on the right hand side of the road. At the mouth of this trail you should see an engraved wooden sign that says "5.8 Crag." Walk up the trail past this sign and viola, there you are.


21 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',12],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',3],['5.8',4],['5.9',2],['5.10',6],['5.11',4],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for 5.8 Crag:
The 5.8 Crack by the Road   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch   
Moe Pup Sensation   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Sport   
Snake Skin Slab   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch   
Bolt And Run   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch   
Romancing the Stone   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Milktoast   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Sport   
License to Ill   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c R     Trad, 1 pitch   
Sky Pilot   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch   
Arm and Hammer   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch   
Blueballs at Christmas   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a R     Trad, 1 pitch   
Pump Up the Volume   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch   
Browse More Classics in 5.8 Crag

Featured Route For 5.8 Crag
Jeff on Romancing just before the traverse right...

Romancing the Stone 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b  NH : Rumney : 5.8 Crag
Romancing the Stone is the most distinguishable climbs at 5.8 Crag, as is follows the first line you see as you approach the cliff. The first third of the climb is characterized by technical 5.10 face climbing that is punctuated by an exit move on the "romancing stone," an brick sized tooth that has been wobbly for as long as anyone can remember. In the immortal advice of Tenacious D, use this hold "gently." A rest of sorts can be found before launching into a pumpy traverse and jug haul to the ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Photos of 5.8 Crag Slideshow Add Photo
Jeff on the popular, Romancing the Stone 5.10c
Jeff on the popular, Romancing the Stone 5.10c
crackheadNH on a lower standing platform on the 5.8 Crack By The Road(actually 5.7) at Rumney
crackheadNH on a lower standing platform on the 5....
a map of the middle buttress of 5.8 crag...
BETA PHOTO: a map of the middle buttress of 5.8 crag...
i left out a couple linkups and obscurities but here is the meat of the cliff...
BETA PHOTO: i left out a couple linkups and obscurities but he...
A map of the right (harder) side of 5.8 Crag...
BETA PHOTO: A map of the right (harder) side of 5.8 Crag...
5.8 crag left side
BETA PHOTO: 5.8 crag left side
Comments on 5.8 Crag Add Comment
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By Aaron L.
Jul 14, 2011
CONDITION REPORT 

There is a fairly large wasp nest about two thirds of the way up the chimney on the left side. Take care not to disturb it when climbing the chimney or the adjacent routes.