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5.8 Crag

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.8 Crack by the Road, The T 
Arm and Hammer S 
Asbury Park S 
Blue Spotted Tail TR 
Blueballs at Christmas T 
Bolt And Run S 
Central Park TR 
Chimney of Doom T 
Granny's Route S 
License to Ill T 
Milksnake T 
Milktoast S 
Moe Pup Sensation S 
Only a Crow S 
Pump Up the Volume S 
Raven S 
Romancing The Snake T 
Romancing the Stone S 
Sky Pilot S 
Snake Skin Slab S 
Terrace, The S 

5.8 Crag Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 43.80105, -71.83823 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 22,041
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Patrick Bagley on Oct 23, 2006
Forecast:
Tonight

57°
Friday

80° | 59°
Saturday

86° | 62°
Sunday

79° | 58°
Memorial Day

76° | 61°
Tuesday

78° | 57°
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Note: New route moratorium area. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

5.8 Crag is a somewhat shady crag at the base of Rattlesnake Mountain that is visible from the road. Due to its proximity to the road, 5.8 Crag is well traveled and popular with large groups of topropers. The Main Cliff and the upper crags are also easily reached via a "secret" (sshhh!) trail that ascends from the far right end of this crag, making 5.8 Crag a good choice for the cranksters who want to warm up en route to the "proj."

Those hoping 5.8 Crag will live up to its name will not be disappointed, however about half of climbs here range from 5.10 to 5.12. If approaching from the road, the first route you will see is Romancing The Stone (5.10c), which ascend to the right of a blunt arete before launching into a pumpy traverse and overhanging jug haul.

The gently overhanging wall to the right of Romancing The Stone is home to the wall's only 5.12 and a side-by-side set of 5.11s. For the most part the climbs become progressively less steep and easier as you move left of Romancing the Stone. Notable climbs here include a 5.7 hand crack that is protected with gear and two 5.8s that have one or two interesting moves.

Getting There 

Park at either lot (but never on the road!) and follow the main trail that parallels the road west out of the small lot. Continue straight past the wooden stairs, crossing a small foot bridge and in a couple minutes you are there.

Climbing Season



Weather station 10.1 miles from here

21 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',14],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',3],['5.8',4],['5.9',2],['5.10',6],['5.11',4],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in 5.8 Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for 5.8 Crag:
The 5.8 Crack by the Road   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch   
Snake Skin Slab   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch   
Bolt And Run   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch   
Romancing the Stone   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Milktoast   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport   
License to Ill   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R     Trad, 1 pitch   
Sky Pilot   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch   
Arm and Hammer   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch   
Blueballs at Christmas   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R     Trad, 1 pitch   
Pump Up the Volume   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in 5.8 Crag

Featured Route For 5.8 Crag
Rock Climbing Photo: Bad crimps for Kayte, as she climbs through the cr...

Pump Up the Volume 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b  NH : *Rumney : 5.8 Crag
An appropriately named route, fighting the pump is the red point crux as each move tends to be easier than the last, but by the end of the climb, you could swear that the moves are getting harder. The route starts from a ledge that heads out left from the start of Sky Pilot (5.11b). Stick clip the first bolt and climb right in to the crux, a sequency series of tiny crimps and footwork leading to better holds and less technical climbing, but you will get pumped unless you are a tough girl (or boy...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Photos of 5.8 Crag Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: A map of the right (harder) side of 5.8 Crag...
BETA PHOTO: A map of the right (harder) side of 5.8 Crag...
Rock Climbing Photo: crackheadNH on a lower standing platform on the 5....
crackheadNH on a lower standing platform on the 5....
Rock Climbing Photo: Jeff on the popular, Romancing the Stone 5.10c
Jeff on the popular, Romancing the Stone 5.10c
Rock Climbing Photo: a map of the middle buttress of 5.8 crag...
BETA PHOTO: a map of the middle buttress of 5.8 crag...
Rock Climbing Photo: i left out a couple linkups and obscurities but he...
BETA PHOTO: i left out a couple linkups and obscurities but he...
Rock Climbing Photo: 5.8 crag left side
BETA PHOTO: 5.8 crag left side

Comments on 5.8 Crag Add Comment
Show which comments
By Aaron L.
Jul 14, 2011
CONDITION REPORT 
There is a fairly large wasp nest about two thirds of the way up the chimney on the left side. Take care not to disturb it when climbing the chimney or the adjacent routes.

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