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Fifth World, The T,S 
Free Willie S 
Geritol Generation T,TR 
Global Gorilla S 
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Is It Ready Yet...Moe S 
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Sundog S 
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Unfamiliar Strangers S 
We Don't Do Crack T 
Wine and Roses T 

Is It Ready Yet...Moe 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Greg Hand and Moe Hershoff
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 5,693
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Feb 16, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (175)
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Bruno Hache starting up Is It Ready Yet...Moe (lef...

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  • Description 

    The start is the crux and coming out of the upper corner. Clip the first bolt and go left to the arete (crux) and then up the face (loose) to the second bolt...clip the third bolt and then fire up the nice face to the anchor.

    Really good route that will get better with more ascents.


    About a 125 feet right of Free Willie at a the right end of a long, low overhang.


    Seven bolts to a two bolt anchor.

    Photos of Is It Ready Yet...Moe Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: 1 - Is It Ready Yet ... Moe. 2 - We Don't Do Crack...
    1 - Is It Ready Yet ... Moe. 2 - We Don't Do Crack...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Ben cleaning the route. You can see the climb star...
    BETA PHOTO: Ben cleaning the route. You can see the climb star...
    Rock Climbing Photo: At the second bolt.
    At the second bolt.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Big holds!
    Big holds!
    Rock Climbing Photo: At the 2nd bolt.
    At the 2nd bolt.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Mary Riedmiller at the crux move around the arete ...
    Mary Riedmiller at the crux move around the arete ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Getting it done w/ draws in place!
    Getting it done w/ draws in place!
    Rock Climbing Photo: Start of "Is it ready yet...Moe."
    Start of "Is it ready yet...Moe."

    Comments on Is It Ready Yet...Moe Add Comment
    Show which comments
    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 3, 2017
    By Paul Hunnicutt
    From: Boulder, CO
    Mar 20, 2008
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    Does this route start on a black face, at a dihedral that could be lead on gear? I placed cams past the first two bolts - though a bush, dirt, and loose rock wasn't all that inspiring (I'm not posting some anti-bolt tirade just clarifying location). The upper section was pretty lichen covered, but with more traffic would be a nice addition to the crag - since there aren't many mid range climbs here.
    By Paul Hunnicutt
    From: Boulder, CO
    Mar 20, 2008
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    Wrong way??? Well someone forgot to put tape on the holds, so I had to be inventive.

    I think you could climb either the face or crack as they are only a few feet apart at the start. Though if you climb the crack you'll want to protect it with gear - the bolts are too far out left to be that useful for protection (until the third bolt).

    The crack seemed pretty obvious to me and doing it that way felt 5.9+ overall. Perhaps just 5.9 once the lichen wears away. I didn't do the bolted face start so can't comment on its grade.

    Still some loose rock on this one, so keep your belayer aware.
    By Paul Hunnicutt
    From: Boulder, CO
    Mar 21, 2008
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    Hey I was just asking originally so I could post the photo of the start for everyone...found the description a bit vague and it isn't in any guidebook yet. I wanted to make sure if I was commenting at all I was on the correct route in the database. I was asking for the sake of the next person looking at the site for a nice moderate to climb at Animal World.

    IMHO, I'd say this route has two up a dirty crack...and one a somewhat contrived (but perhaps fun nonetheless) up a face past two bolts to avoid the dirty crack. They both end up at the third bolt. The natural line is up the crack, but since you have bolts to protect the moves out left people can try that also. There is no "wrong way" upwards.

    The crack start would also be fun cleaned up a bit.
    By Bruce Pech
    May 20, 2008
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    A pleasant warm up with a cool move left around the arete at the 7th bolt.
    By Mark Cushman
    From: Cumming, GA
    May 29, 2008

    If it has rained recently, this route will be soaked.
    By Crag Dweller
    From: New York, NY
    Oct 4, 2009
    rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

    Fun moves coming around the two corners.
    By Top Rope Hero
    From: Was Estes Park, now homeless
    Jul 18, 2011
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    Seems awfully contrived (and wrongheaded) to move OUT of the dihedral/crack at the first bolt, just to rejoin it ten feet later before sending the upper sections. Leave it to Boulder....

    At any rate, as of summer, 2011, the crack start seemed clean 'n' friendly enough. And my six-foot frame was easily able to clip all bolts without having to use any gear.

    Good, fun warm-up regardless of how you mash these potatoes....
    By Greg Hand
    From: Golden, CO
    Jul 18, 2011

    If you read the first comment (done 1 month after the first ascent), Paul climbed the corner "though a bush, dirt, and loose rock wasn't all that inspiring". When this route was first done in Feb. 2008, the crack was full of water and ice, hence we bolted the clean dry rock on the left. We came back in April and cleaned the corner to produce the trad route "We Don't Do Crack". The moves following the bolts left are technically more difficult. You can climb the route any way you want.
    By Paul Donald Andrews
    From: Nederland, Co.
    May 18, 2012
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Climbed it today and loved it! The route does look kind of funky from the ground. It has cleaned up very nicely. Clip the first bolt and move out left to the arete. IMHO the crux comes after the very long reach (I'm 5'9") to clip the 5th bolt. The thin finger holds push me to give it 10a. The moves out left at the top are spacey and cool. Looks like a harder variation going straight up and over the corner. Thanks, Greg.
    By JJR
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jun 12, 2012
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    This route is pretty cool IMHO. I'm surprised to see it on here as 10a though, given that the BoCan guidebook by D'antonio calls it 9+, and I'd agree with that. I started up the crack and thought it was fun. Definitely a little tricky in spots, but I wouldn't say the climbing is 10a. Kind of creepy on lead (especially because from the 5th or so bolt, you can't see the next bolt), but if you trust your technique, you should be solid. Creepiest part is coming out onto the face near the anchors, but the hands and feet are all there. I'd recommend doing it if you're in the area.
    By slim
    Oct 8, 2012
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    Just barely a one star route. Luckily there is just enough ok climbing to make up for the contrived climbing, sections of low quality rock, and the lame, hidden 5th bolt.
    By Matt Simon
    From: Boulder, CO
    Nov 18, 2013

    Don't know what you mean about the "hidden" fifth bolt - it was right where it should be.

    Thought this was a very fun route. Moving out of the corner at the top was a nice way to finish.
    By Rob Davies UK
    From: Cheshire, UK
    Oct 10, 2015
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Moving low on to arête by bolt #1 is hard (as in photo in guide), but there are also several interesting moves higher up.
    By Paul Hunnicutt
    From: Boulder, CO
    Oct 25, 2015
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    Why edit the original comments so it looks like I'm having a conversation with myself. Leave the original and now deleted "you went the wrong way!" comment in there.
    By S. Neoh
    Sep 3, 2017

    Very good route, deserves more than 2 stars. Below the first bolt and coming out of the upper corner are the cruxes, IMHO. It is easy to be led astray by chalked "sucker" holds in that corner (which happened to me). Even so, this is harder, more techy, and more balancy/insecure compared to Unfamiliar Strangers (.9+) to its left and The Tower over at Avalon.

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