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Gate Buttress

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Beckey's Wall Area 
Dihedrals Area 
East Gate Buttress 
Five Fingers Area 
Heaven's Gate Area 
Prune Face Slab 
Schoolroom Area 
University Slabs 

Gate Buttress Rock Climbing 


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Location: 40.5733, -111.7533 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 95,784
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Allen Sanderson on Aug 2, 2007
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The land is owned by the LDS Church; please be respectful of this. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Gate Buttress contains the most popular crags in Little Cottonwood. Routes range from easy 5th class to impossible-to-believe-humans-could-climb-it lines.

See an oblique aerial view here.

Getting There 

Drive 1.25 miles up Little Cottonwood Canyon parking at either the lot on the left or along side the right side of the road.

There is a main trail that begins on the west side of the parking lot that leads up to the Gate Boulders where the trail forks. For the Dihedrals and Beckey's Wall take the right fork and head up hill. This branch is rather fragmented and is not always clear. For all other crags continue west as the trail meanders through the revegetated talus area. See the individual crag descriptions for more info on getting to them.

Note: In 1998 through 2000 the area below where the approach trail is located was quarried and is presently under revegetation. Please stay on the climber's trail so it can recover.

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.4 miles from here

112 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',49],['2 Stars',41],['1 Star',13],['Bomb',2]
['<=5.6',11],['5.7',15],['5.8',18],['5.9',18],['5.10',24],['5.11',17],['5.12',9],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Gate Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Gate Buttress:
Schoolroom   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 5 pitches, 400'   Schoolroom Area
Beckey's Wall   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 160'   Beckey's Wall Area
Tingey's Terror   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   Beckey's Wall Area
Schoolroom West   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   Schoolroom Area
Schoolroom Direct Variation   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Schoolroom Area
Bushwhack Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 250'   Schoolroom Area
Callitwhatyouplease   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   Schoolroom Area
Satan's Corner   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 100'   Dihedrals Area
Tingey's Torture   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   Beckey's Wall Area
Fingertrip Variation   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   Beckey's Wall Area
Half-A-Finger   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Dihedrals Area
Equipment Overhang Right   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Dihedrals Area
The Flakes   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   East Gate Buttress
Black and White John and Mary   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Dihedrals Area
Mind Blow   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R     Trad, 170'   Schoolroom Area
To Air is Human   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 200'   East Gate Buttress
Stem the Tide   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Dihedrals Area
Equipment Overhang   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Dihedrals Area
Split Fingers   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 145'   Beckey's Wall Area
Bloodline   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 85'   East Gate Buttress
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Gate Buttress

Featured Route For Gate Buttress
Rock Climbing Photo: Route 1 is The Flakes  Route 2 is Gran Hermano  Ro...

El Segundo 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : East Gate Buttress
The traverse left offers hard, balancy moves...the crux. An amazing finger crack follows, which joins the main route at the upper lieback. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Comments on Gate Buttress Add Comment
Show which comments
By choppinBolts
Sep 11, 2014
Who could we write thank you notes to for allowing this area to be open to climbers? How can we build this relationship even more?
By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Sep 22, 2014
The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance
By sammiller
From: park city
Jun 1, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: Men's wedding ring found near base of Satan's Corn...
Men's wedding ring found near base of Satan's Corner.

Men's wedding ring found near Satan's Corner. Let me know if this belongs to you.
By Kerrie Neal 1
Jun 10, 2016
LOST GEAR- REWARD IF FOUND
An orange 40m rope was misplaced probably somewhere at the trailhead. If any kind soul has it and is looking to return it you will definitely be compensated!!
Please call or text me at 443-535-3524 if you have any info/questions
By PJC683
Oct 9, 2016
On 10/8/16 between 11:00 am and 3:30 pm we had cash and phones stolen out of our bags which were located at the base of schoolroom direct. The thief went into our bags and through our wallets taking only cash but leaving everything else (credit cards, drivers license, etc.). The gear we had in our bags was worth more than the phones and cash but it was not touched. A claim has been filed with the police, please contact me if you know anything about this or had this also happen to you on this day.

I hate to think it is another member of the climbing community that did this (Based on the gear that wasn't stolen, I doubt it was) Yet it does provider a reminder to think twice about bringing phones, wallets, and valuables to the crag and leaving them unattended in your bags.
By Chris Lehan
Oct 19, 2016
found: scarpa rock shoes around the gate bouldering area. contact me at 6019682160 with details of the shoes so i know they are yours and you can come pick them up.
By Jecca
Nov 6, 2016
LOST:A pair of Anasazi 5.10 shoes and a red alien cam. Probably located near Black and White John and Mary. If you've found either, please call 2063549355. Thanks!