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Gate Buttress

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Gate Buttress Rock Climbing 

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Location: 40.5733, -111.7533 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 134,410
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Allen Sanderson on Aug 2, 2007
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This guy was rope soloing the route. Here he is ma...

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>


Gate Buttress contains the most popular crags in Little Cottonwood. Routes range from easy 5th class to impossible-to-believe-humans-could-climb-it lines.

See an oblique aerial view here.

Getting There 

Drive 1.25 miles up Little Cottonwood Canyon parking at either the lot on the left or along side the right side of the road.

There is a main trail that begins on the west side of the parking lot that leads up to the Gate Boulders where the trail forks. For the Dihedrals and Beckey's Wall take the right fork and head up hill. This branch is rather fragmented and is not always clear. For all other crags continue west as the trail meanders through the revegetated talus area. See the individual crag descriptions for more info on getting to them.

Note: In 1998 through 2000 the area below where the approach trail is located was quarried and is presently under revegetation. Please stay on the climber's trail so it can recover.

Climbing Season

Weather station 3.4 miles from here

117 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',49],['2 Stars',49],['1 Star',10],['Bomb',2]

Classic Climbing Routes in Gate Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Gate Buttress:
Schoolroom   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 5 pitches, 400'   Schoolroom Area
Schoolroom West   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   Schoolroom Area
Schoolroom Direct Variation   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Schoolroom Area
Tingey's Terror   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   Beckey's Wall Area
Beckey's Wall   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 160'   Beckey's Wall Area
Satan's Corner   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 100'   Dihedrals Area
Callitwhatyouplease   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   Schoolroom Area
Bushwhack Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 250'   Schoolroom Area
Movie Variation   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Schoolroom Area
The Hook   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   Schoolroom Area
Tingey's Torture   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   Beckey's Wall Area
Fingertrip Variation   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   Beckey's Wall Area
Lisa's Shoulder   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Dihedrals Area
Pebbles and Bambam   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 110'   Beckey's Wall Area
Half-A-Finger   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Dihedrals Area
The Flakes   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   East Gate Buttress
Equipment Overhang Right   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Dihedrals Area
Black and White John and Mary   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Dihedrals Area
Stem the Tide   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Dihedrals Area
Equipment Overhang   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Dihedrals Area
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Gate Buttress

Featured Route For Gate Buttress
Rock Climbing Photo: Half a Figure (5.9+)

Half-A-Finger 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a  Utah : Wasatch Range : ... : Dihedrals Area
Half-A-Finger is a unique thin crack with 3 cruxes, and rests in between. Near the left side of the dihedrals area, look for a small pinnacle (the finger) up about 70 feet. This is the route. Start in a corner with no crack (but pro is available). Continue through two bulges with a finger crack. These are the first two cruxes. End the pitch by awkwardly squeezing up the finger with double hand cracks (third crux). I believe another variation avoids the awkward topout and climbs the face on ...[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

Comments on Gate Buttress Add Comment
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By choppinBolts
Sep 11, 2014
Who could we write thank you notes to for allowing this area to be open to climbers? How can we build this relationship even more?
By Greg Gavin
From: SLC, UT
Sep 22, 2014
The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance
By sammiller Miller
From: park city
Jun 1, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: Men's wedding ring found near base of Satan's Corn...
Men's wedding ring found near base of Satan's Corner.

Men's wedding ring found near Satan's Corner. Let me know if this belongs to you.
By Kerrie Neal 1
Jun 10, 2016
An orange 40m rope was misplaced probably somewhere at the trailhead. If any kind soul has it and is looking to return it you will definitely be compensated!!
Please call or text me at 443-535-3524 if you have any info/questions
By PJC683
Oct 9, 2016
On 10/8/16 between 11:00 am and 3:30 pm we had cash and phones stolen out of our bags which were located at the base of schoolroom direct. The thief went into our bags and through our wallets taking only cash but leaving everything else (credit cards, drivers license, etc.). The gear we had in our bags was worth more than the phones and cash but it was not touched. A claim has been filed with the police, please contact me if you know anything about this or had this also happen to you on this day.

I hate to think it is another member of the climbing community that did this (Based on the gear that wasn't stolen, I doubt it was) Yet it does provider a reminder to think twice about bringing phones, wallets, and valuables to the crag and leaving them unattended in your bags.
By Chris Lehan
Oct 19, 2016
found: scarpa rock shoes around the gate bouldering area. contact me at 6019682160 with details of the shoes so i know they are yours and you can come pick them up.
By Jecca
Nov 6, 2016
LOST:A pair of Anasazi 5.10 shoes and a red alien cam. Probably located near Black and White John and Mary. If you've found either, please call 2063549355. Thanks!
By Salt Lake Climbers Alliance
Jun 2, 2017
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of

Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017, Salt Lake City, Utah – The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.

Read More:

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The Definitive Climbing Resource

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