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5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 71
● Spice Box
Feb 17, 2026 · Lead / Onsight. Fun route with some friable rock in hard sections. I thought it was a solid 10.
Sport 3 pitches
Central Arizona > … > Camelback Mountain > Headwall
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 61
● Chimera
Feb 17, 2026 · Lead / Onsight. Fun climb. The rock really deteriorates at the top. I took off a large piece. Grade about right. Shanagans to rappel down with a 70
Sport 2 pitches
Central Arizona > … > Camelback Mountain > Gargoyle Wall
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 10
● Unintentional Show-off
Feb 17, 2026 · Solo. I hiked in and rope soloed this one. A fun day with the horses in the river, but the crux has terrible rock. Evidence of breakage and repair. I think it's now about 11a. Wouldn't take much effort to turn it into 5.9 again
Sport
Central Arizona > *Phoenix Areas > Coon Bluff
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 15
● Modern Guilt
Sep 26, 2025 · Lead / Fell/Hung. We initially tried to do the first few pitches of pressure sensitive to approach the crux pitch. We did the first two pitches and bailed. Once was enough. There were no bolts on the 5.9 section. My lead, vibrant memories . Later, I got to meet Eddie Joe. I don't think he remembered the route. However, his is the apocryphal tale of using oil to get out of an OW. He went back 30 years later and retrieved the empty bottle.
Trad 10 pitches
Sequoia & Kings… > Moro Rock (SEKI) > W Face
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
 2
● Rastaman Vibrations.
Sep 22, 2025
Trad 13 pitches
Lake Tahoe > … > Calaveras Dome > 1. Northeast Face
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 487
● Regular Route (Higher Cathedral…
Oct 9, 2024 · 4 pitches. Lead / Onsight. I did this for about the 6th time. As always, at the shattered rock I traversed left, belayed, and then climbed left around the corner of the spire, straight up a short 5.8 face, and then up a short overhanging hand crack and face to the top. The blocks comprising the hand crack have moved and are dangerous.
Trad 5 pitches
Yosemite NP > … > P. Cathedral Area > 3. Higher Cathedral S…
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
 2
● Rastaman Vibrations.
Jul 15, 2023 · After an aborted run up last fall, Salmanizer and I returned to replace 40+ year old bolts and missing pitons on this route. A few notes. The pitches Salmanizer describes in his 2020 post are part of several other routes diagonaling to the high times ledge. One was 5.9 x, and another was 5.9 R. The core of the route, about pitch 4 to pitch 8 remains as a testimony to extreme boldness, tempered by a pinch of insanity. Every one of these pitches has R or X terrain going at mid 10 to easy 11 on slabby or loose rock, with 40 foot run-outs. You will not walk away after a fall. As a 66 year old whose own insanity was tamed by an extremely uncomfortable ride under a helicopter straight into ICU, I think I'm obligated to give some small advice. Get an EMT for a climbing partner, and try to make sure SARS is practicing close by with a helicopter if you attempt this thing.
Trad 13 pitches
Lake Tahoe > … > Calaveras Dome > 1. Northeast Face
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 5
● Aye Corona!
Jul 4, 2023 · I got the supposed crux after bolt 3 on sight. I could not do the first few moves, felt and looked significantly harder.
Trad
Southern-Wester… > … > j. Hawk Dome > Main Wall
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 8
● Split Personality
Jul 1, 2023 · Lead. First 10 ft much harder, pulled on draws, then 10a up.
Sport
Southern-Wester… > … > j. Hawk Dome > Main Wall
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 12
● Chicken Fried Daddy
Jul 1, 2023 · Lead. Felt hard for grade. In the sun and hot. Pitch 1 sustained face with very close bolts. Pitch 2 a few moves to an easy face. Top of pitch 2 is a large ledge and tree. At least 5 separate pitches start on this ledge. Chicken fried daddy is the first bolt line left of the corner. The moves off the ground are hard. Beyond the second bolt I slung a horn. held in place with a red Camelot. Above this and before the third bolt is a hard insecure move. The crack above the third bolt takes small cams and nuts. The roof above the crack is hard. I moved left to clip the bolt and back right to pull the move. After pulling the roof easy to the top. 100 ft. Three rappels down. TRed the corner right. 5.10. Pull roof using ledge on rt face.
Trad 3 pitches
Southern-Wester… > … > j. Hawk Dome > Main Wall
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 17
● Otherworld
May 9, 2023 · Solo. Rope solo First two pitches are better with a few cams. I brought a set of totems and used them. Third pitch has a moderate runout and a cleaned seam that accepts a yellow alien or totem. Beyond that to pitch five, no gear. I bailed at 5. ( I'm 65 and tired). This is a good addition. Keep in mind that the first assentionists are not sport climbers. Pitch 6 appeared to be more tightly bolted. I used a 60. The climbing is interesting and not obvious. I found myself heading left and right to use spaced features.
Sport 9 pitches
Yosemite NP > … > Lower Merced Ri… > Aa. Parkline Slab
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
 4
● Karakoram Highway
Aug 16, 2022 · Lead / Fell/Hung. I recently did this route again, after cleaning the last hard pitch. This pitch is tamed with black totems. I'd need at least 4. the other dangerous pitch is also tamed. Rappelling in from the top is easy with two fixed ropes(I'm 65, ok?). do it, clean it up A spectacular line, with good climbing.
Trad 19 pitches
Lake Tahoe > … > Calaveras Dome > 1. Northeast Face
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 45
● East Buttress
Apr 22, 2022 · The crux pitch is hard. I did the Don Juan wall (needles) years ago and I thought this harder. We were lost briefly at the top of the sixth pitch. There is a ledge with two big roofs above, each with a crack on the left and right. The left crack below the right roof is the correct line. Above this pitch there are many loose blocks. We missed the 5.6 ramp but climbed crack and face at about 10+ then traversed left at a really rusty piton and then further left into the correct easier line. Decent easy.
Trad 12 pitches
Yosemite NP > … > 7. Lower Cathed… > Gunsight
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 37
● Boromir
Nov 28, 2021 · This route is hard for the grade. Above the crux, sustained 5.10 with some fragile holds and distance between bolts. Really good climbing with unusual moves at cruxes.
Sport
San Francisco B… > … > Pine Canyon > Mammoth Rock
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 39
● K2
Jul 7, 2021 · Lead / Onsight. Fun route. Expect some jungle climbing
Trad 4 pitches
S America > … > Corcovado > E Face
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 11
● Face Leste (East Face)
Jul 7, 2021 · 17 pitches. Lead / Onsight. I hired a guide. The base is difficult to find, and the route is difficult to follow in some areas because the bolts are far apart and features obscure them. Getting off line in some areas puts you 35 feet above a bolt in insecure 5.10 rather than 5.9. Old aid pitches are easily freed at about 11a. There are two long chimneys one with an obscure exit. All this said, you can move quickly. We did it in under 4 hours
Trad 16 pitches
S America > … > Salinas / Três… > Pico Maior
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 66
● Via dos Italianos
Jun 29, 2021 · Lead / Onsight. Don't expect a sport route. Up to 4 meters between bolts on harder terrain. That said, falls are clean. I found the route more like 10b. We did a leftward variation before cables and the top of this was friction 10d. That said, you could just grab the cable at that point. Very nice route.
Sport 9 pitches
S America > … > Urca (Pao de Ac… > Pao de Acucar (Sugarl…
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 15
● Dedo do Deus (God's Finger) East…
Jun 29, 2021 · Lead / Onsight. I did this a few days ago with a Brazilian who knew the way. I wouldn't really call this a rock climb. It is more of a jungle and chimney grovel with very short sections of rock climbing. That said, do it. It's a unique summit and experience. The hardest part might be finding the start. Park behind a tourist restaurant. Hike back down the highway past a turn out on your right about 1km. A hundred or two meters past the pullout there is a small hole in the jungle on the right. The Dedo will be visible above if you are on the correct stretch of highway. Hike up a very steep and occasionally exposed path for about 45 minutes. The route starts at a flat area with several bolts leading to a cable. Ascend cables ropes and trails for an hour to the Col. The street of the route should now be visible. Follow the top. The rappel and down climbing we did were a extremely circuitous
Trad 5 pitches
S America > … > Rio de Janeiro > Serra dos Órgãos NP
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Spice Box Central Arizona > … > Camelback Mountain > Headwall
 71
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport 3 pitches
Feb 17, 2026 · Lead / Onsight. Fun route with some friable rock in hard sections. I thought it was a solid 10.
● Chimera Central Arizona > … > Camelback Mountain > Gargoyle Wall
 61
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Sport 2 pitches
Feb 17, 2026 · Lead / Onsight. Fun climb. The rock really deteriorates at the top. I took off a large piece. Grade about right. Shanagans to rappel down with a 70
● Unintentional Show-off Central Arizona > *Phoenix Areas > Coon Bluff
 10
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Feb 17, 2026 · Solo. I hiked in and rope soloed this one. A fun day with the horses in the river, but the crux has terrible rock. Evidence of breakage and repair. I think it's now about 11a. Wouldn't take much effort to turn it into 5.9 again
● Modern Guilt Sequoia & Kings… > Moro Rock (SEKI) > W Face
 15
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad 10 pitches
Sep 26, 2025 · Lead / Fell/Hung. We initially tried to do the first few pitches of pressure sensitive to approach the crux pitch. We did the first two pitches and bailed. Once was enough. There were no bolts on the 5.9 section. My lead, vibrant memories . Later, I got to meet Eddie Joe. I don't think he remembered the route. However, his is the apocryphal tale of using oil to get out of an OW. He went back 30 years later and retrieved the empty bottle.
● Rastaman Vibrations. Lake Tahoe > … > Calaveras Dome > 1. Northeast Face
 2
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R Trad 13 pitches
Sep 22, 2025
● Regular Route (Higher Cathe… Yosemite NP > … > P. Cathedral Area > 3. Higher Cathedral S…
 487
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 5 pitches
Oct 9, 2024 · 4 pitches. Lead / Onsight. I did this for about the 6th time. As always, at the shattered rock I traversed left, belayed, and then climbed left around the corner of the spire, straight up a short 5.8 face, and then up a short overhanging hand crack and face to the top. The blocks comprising the hand crack have moved and are dangerous.
● Rastaman Vibrations. Lake Tahoe > … > Calaveras Dome > 1. Northeast Face
 2
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R Trad 13 pitches
Jul 15, 2023 · After an aborted run up last fall, Salmanizer and I returned to replace 40+ year old bolts and missing pitons on this route. A few notes. The pitches Salmanizer describes in his 2020 post are part of several other routes diagonaling to the high times ledge. One was 5.9 x, and another was 5.9 R. The core of the route, about pitch 4 to pitch 8 remains as a testimony to extreme boldness, tempered by a pinch of insanity. Every one of these pitches has R or X terrain going at mid 10 to easy 11 on slabby or loose rock, with 40 foot run-outs. You will not walk away after a fall. As a 66 year old whose own insanity was tamed by an extremely uncomfortable ride under a helicopter straight into ICU, I think I'm obligated to give some small advice. Get an EMT for a climbing partner, and try to make sure SARS is practicing close by with a helicopter if you attempt this thing.
● Aye Corona! Southern-Wester… > … > j. Hawk Dome > Main Wall
 5
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Jul 4, 2023 · I got the supposed crux after bolt 3 on sight. I could not do the first few moves, felt and looked significantly harder.
● Split Personality Southern-Wester… > … > j. Hawk Dome > Main Wall
 8
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Jul 1, 2023 · Lead. First 10 ft much harder, pulled on draws, then 10a up.
● Chicken Fried Daddy Southern-Wester… > … > j. Hawk Dome > Main Wall
 12
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Jul 1, 2023 · Lead. Felt hard for grade. In the sun and hot. Pitch 1 sustained face with very close bolts. Pitch 2 a few moves to an easy face. Top of pitch 2 is a large ledge and tree. At least 5 separate pitches start on this ledge. Chicken fried daddy is the first bolt line left of the corner. The moves off the ground are hard. Beyond the second bolt I slung a horn. held in place with a red Camelot. Above this and before the third bolt is a hard insecure move. The crack above the third bolt takes small cams and nuts. The roof above the crack is hard. I moved left to clip the bolt and back right to pull the move. After pulling the roof easy to the top. 100 ft. Three rappels down. TRed the corner right. 5.10. Pull roof using ledge on rt face.
● Otherworld Yosemite NP > … > Lower Merced Ri… > Aa. Parkline Slab
 17
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport 9 pitches
May 9, 2023 · Solo. Rope solo First two pitches are better with a few cams. I brought a set of totems and used them. Third pitch has a moderate runout and a cleaned seam that accepts a yellow alien or totem. Beyond that to pitch five, no gear. I bailed at 5. ( I'm 65 and tired). This is a good addition. Keep in mind that the first assentionists are not sport climbers. Pitch 6 appeared to be more tightly bolted. I used a 60. The climbing is interesting and not obvious. I found myself heading left and right to use spaced features.
● Karakoram Highway Lake Tahoe > … > Calaveras Dome > 1. Northeast Face
 4
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 Trad 19 pitches
Aug 16, 2022 · Lead / Fell/Hung. I recently did this route again, after cleaning the last hard pitch. This pitch is tamed with black totems. I'd need at least 4. the other dangerous pitch is also tamed. Rappelling in from the top is easy with two fixed ropes(I'm 65, ok?). do it, clean it up A spectacular line, with good climbing.
● East Buttress Yosemite NP > … > 7. Lower Cathed… > Gunsight
 45
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 12 pitches
Apr 22, 2022 · The crux pitch is hard. I did the Don Juan wall (needles) years ago and I thought this harder. We were lost briefly at the top of the sixth pitch. There is a ledge with two big roofs above, each with a crack on the left and right. The left crack below the right roof is the correct line. Above this pitch there are many loose blocks. We missed the 5.6 ramp but climbed crack and face at about 10+ then traversed left at a really rusty piton and then further left into the correct easier line. Decent easy.
● Boromir San Francisco B… > … > Pine Canyon > Mammoth Rock
 37
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Nov 28, 2021 · This route is hard for the grade. Above the crux, sustained 5.10 with some fragile holds and distance between bolts. Really good climbing with unusual moves at cruxes.
● K2 S America > … > Corcovado > E Face
 39
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad 4 pitches
Jul 7, 2021 · Lead / Onsight. Fun route. Expect some jungle climbing
● Face Leste (East Face) S America > … > Salinas / Três… > Pico Maior
 11
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 16 pitches
Jul 7, 2021 · 17 pitches. Lead / Onsight. I hired a guide. The base is difficult to find, and the route is difficult to follow in some areas because the bolts are far apart and features obscure them. Getting off line in some areas puts you 35 feet above a bolt in insecure 5.10 rather than 5.9. Old aid pitches are easily freed at about 11a. There are two long chimneys one with an obscure exit. All this said, you can move quickly. We did it in under 4 hours
● Via dos Italianos S America > … > Urca (Pao de Ac… > Pao de Acucar (Sugarl…
 66
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport 9 pitches
Jun 29, 2021 · Lead / Onsight. Don't expect a sport route. Up to 4 meters between bolts on harder terrain. That said, falls are clean. I found the route more like 10b. We did a leftward variation before cables and the top of this was friction 10d. That said, you could just grab the cable at that point. Very nice route.
● Dedo do Deus (God's Finger)… S America > … > Rio de Janeiro > Serra dos Órgãos NP
 15
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 5 pitches
Jun 29, 2021 · Lead / Onsight. I did this a few days ago with a Brazilian who knew the way. I wouldn't really call this a rock climb. It is more of a jungle and chimney grovel with very short sections of rock climbing. That said, do it. It's a unique summit and experience. The hardest part might be finding the start. Park behind a tourist restaurant. Hike back down the highway past a turn out on your right about 1km. A hundred or two meters past the pullout there is a small hole in the jungle on the right. The Dedo will be visible above if you are on the correct stretch of highway. Hike up a very steep and occasionally exposed path for about 45 minutes. The route starts at a flat area with several bolts leading to a cable. Ascend cables ropes and trails for an hour to the Col. The street of the route should now be visible. Follow the top. The rappel and down climbing we did were a extremely circuitous
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