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Routes in Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf)

Alfredo Marciel S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
As de Espadas S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cavalo Louco T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Chamine Stop T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Coringa S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Costao S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lagartao T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Revolta dos Gravatás T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Secundo Costa Neto T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Via do Totem T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Via dos Italianos S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Waldemar Guimaraes (Waldo) T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
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Description [Edit]

Home to some of the most classic and fun multi-pitch climbing in Rio. If you are a climber, there is no excuse to take the cable car to the top. There are routes for all ability levels, so choose wisely. Many of the bigger routes are bolt protected, but be prepared for run-outs and a very traditional feel. Bring long runners and a 60 meter rope. Some of the best routes on the Pao de Acucar are the Via das Italianos, Waldemar Guimaraes, the Totem, the Chiminea Stop, and Secundo Costa Neto.

NOTE: many people think that there is a class 4 scramble up the back of the Pao de Acucar. There is not. The route, called Costao, is a technical climb. There is a 100 foot face that is 5.7 and exposed. People get hurt (and killed) here, so don’t go into it underprepared.

Getting There [Edit]

There are five main areas on the Pao de Acucar: each of the four faces, and the Totem, which is part of the south face. As a point of reference, the west face is directly underneath the cable car route. To access the west and north face, you must hike over the shoulder between Pao de Acucar and Urca, on a well established trail that splits off of the main paved path which skirts the south side of the formation. To reach the south face, there are smaller climber trails established that break off of the same paved path. To reach the east face, you walk to the end of the paved trail and then cross 4th and 5th class terrain to get to the base of the climbs.

The guidebook is EXCELLENT and can get you anywhere you need to go.
Urca by Flavio Daflon and Delson de Queiroz can be found in various climbing shops around Rio, including one near the entrance to park.
From the top of Pao de Acucar, you can take the cable car down free of charge to the first station. From there you have to walk down one of the access trails to get back to the parking lot, unless it is after 7pm.

12 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 9
Coringa
Sport 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
 4
Chamine Stop
Trad, Sport 7 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 6
Costao
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 22
Via dos Italianos
Sport 9 pitches
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 5
Cavalo Louco
Trad 6 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 3
As de Espadas
Sport 4 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 5
Secundo Costa Neto
Trad, Sport 10 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Coringa
 9
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport 3 pitches
Chamine Stop
 4
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad, Sport 7 pitches
Costao
 6
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Via dos Italianos
 22
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport 9 pitches
Cavalo Louco
 5
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 6 pitches
As de Espadas
 3
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport 4 pitches
Secundo Costa Neto
 5
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, Sport 10 pitches
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