Type: Sport, 700 ft, 9 pitches, Grade III
FA: 1975
Page Views: 7,072 total · 81/month
Shared By: Matt Othmer on Apr 7, 2012 with improvements by Ed. Ducha and 3 others
Admins: Tony Yeary, Matt Looby

You & This Route


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Description

This is the most famous route on the Pao de Acucar. It is on the west face of the formation and climbs up directly underneath the cable car. It is mostly easy but technical face and slab climbing in a beautiful setting. Second half of the first pitch can be tricky for someone not so used to face climbs.
There is a new finish on a beautiful bolted line aside the ferrata. See the Urca guide update "CEPI-em-Livre" on

companhiadaescalada.com.br/pt/...

Continue straight up from P3 of Via dos Italianos. For more details consult the excellent topos in the Urca Climbing Guide.

Location

Start on the paved trail leaving Praia Vermelha toward Pão de Açúcar. Take the marked trail on your left that goes to the top of Morro da Urca. When you reach the shoulder between Morro da Urca and Pão de Açúcar go right instead of left and head directly to the face of Pão de Açúcar. You'll pass under an electric tower along the way to the face.

Protection

14 draws, including several 24 inch runners.

Photos