Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf)

Alfredo Marciel S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
As de Espadas S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cavalo Louco T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Chamine Stop T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Coringa S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Costao S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lagartao T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Revolta dos Gravatás T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Secundo Costa Neto T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Via do Totem T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Via dos Italianos S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Waldemar Guimaraes (Waldo) T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 700 ft, 9 pitches, Grade III
FA: 1975
Page Views: 5,401 total · 77/month
Shared By: Matt Othmer on Apr 7, 2012 with updates
Admins: Tony Yeary, Raiden

You & This Route


21 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This is the most famous route on the Pao de Acucar. It is on the west face of the formation and climbs up directly underneath the cable car. It is mostly easy but technical face and slab climbing in a beautiful setting. Second half of the first pitch can be tricky for someone not so used to face climbs.
There is a new finish on a beautiful bolted line aside the ferrata. See the Urca guide update "CEPI-em-Livre" on

companhiadaescalada.com.br/pt/...

Continue straight up from P3 of Via dos Italianos. For more details consult the excellent topos in the Urca Climbing Guide.

Location

From the paved trail along the base of Pao de Acucar, take an obvious trail to the shoulder between the Urca and the Pao de Acucar, then head directly to the face of Pao de Acucar.

Protection

14 draws, including several 24 inch runners.
T Delfin
  5.9
T Delfin  
  5.9
Just climbed this incredible route. Here are a few updates to the existing beta. First, I'd call this 5.9, as would most locals, apparently. The approach is a 30 minute hike from the ground level access to the cable cars from Praia Vermelha. The climber's access route ends directly at the base of the route. It is described as 9 pitches, which it could be, but I climbed it in 5 long ones. I've gathered 7 is most common. There are a TON of P-bolts all over the line and many, many staggered anchors, so you can choose your own adventure as far as pitches and runout. No pro needed, just a sport rack with a few alpine draws. As I climbed it, the hardest and most fun climbing is in the first two pitches, which are comprised of mostly technical slab climbing with terrific friction and an increasing number of nubbins and occasional flakes with enjoyable airy laybacks. The final pitches are 5.7-ish and include a fun pitch-long slab traverse, which I climbed as the penultimate pitch. Because it's sport, it goes fast for how long it is. My leisurely climb took two hours. (The speed record is 25.5 minutes!) The descent is via the gondola (teleférico). The first gondola ride down is free. From there you can take the hiking trail back down or pay for the second gondola (why bother, though). If you're in town for just a few days and want to get some climbing in, I'd highly recommend Mingo and Andrew at ancoraue.com. They're guides who feel like climbing partners and charge roughly US$100 for a half day of climbing. This route is fantastic and the views will make you think you're hallucinating. Jan 3, 2018
Loganator
blue van, on the highway to no
Loganator   blue van, on the highway to no
Classic!

How do you know if a climber is from Colorado? Just wait, he will tell you. Apr 5, 2017
Hey @Dan. Curious as to how much harder this is than K2? Also wondering about runouts on this pitch.

Pretty used to climbing slab here in CO Aug 1, 2015
Don Morris
Denver, CO
 
Don Morris   Denver, CO
 
Correct spelling of route is Via dos Italianos Jun 30, 2015