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Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf)

International > S America > Brazil > Rio de Janeiro > Urca (Pao de Acucar a…

Description

Home to some of the most classic and fun multi-pitch climbing in Rio. If you are a climber, there is no excuse to take the cable car to the top. There are routes for all ability levels, so choose wisely. Many of the bigger routes are bolt protected, but be prepared for run-outs and a very traditional feel. Bring long runners and a 60 meter rope. Some of the best routes on the Pao de Acucar are the Via das Italianos, Waldemar Guimaraes, the Totem, the Chiminea Stop, and Secundo Costa Neto.

NOTE: many people think that there is a class 4 scramble up the back of the Pao de Acucar. There is not. The route, called Costao, is a technical climb. There is a 100 foot face that is 5.7 and exposed. People get hurt (and killed) here, so don’t go into it underprepared.

Getting There

There are five main areas on the Pao de Acucar: each of the four faces, and the Totem, which is part of the south face. As a point of reference, the west face is directly underneath the cable car route. To access the west and north face, you must hike over the shoulder between Pao de Acucar and Urca, on a well established trail that splits off of the main paved path which skirts the south side of the formation. To reach the south face, there are smaller climber trails established that break off of the same paved path. To reach the east face, you walk to the end of the paved trail and then cross 4th and 5th class terrain to get to the base of the climbs.

The guidebook is EXCELLENT and can get you anywhere you need to go.
Urca by Flavio Daflon and Delson de Queiroz can be found in various climbing shops around Rio, including one near the entrance to park.
From the top of Pao de Acucar, you can take the cable car down free of charge to the first station. From there you have to walk down one of the access trails to get back to the parking lot, unless it is after 7pm.

Routes from Left to Right

5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
 2
Waldemar Guimaraes (Waldo)
Trad, Sport 10 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 5
Secundo Costa Neto
Trad, Sport 10 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 34
Via dos Italianos
Sport 9 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
 6
Chamine Stop
Trad, Sport 7 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 2
Via do Totem
Trad, Sport 8 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 2
Lagartao
Trad, Sport 8 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 3
As de Espadas
Sport 4 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 11
Coringa
Sport 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 7
Costao
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 1
Alfredo Marciel
Sport 4 pitches
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 6
Cavalo Louco
Trad 6 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
 1
Revolta dos Gravatás
Trad 8 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Waldemar Guimaraes (Waldo)
 2
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 Trad, Sport 10 pitches
Secundo Costa Neto
 5
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, Sport 10 pitches
Via dos Italianos
 34
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport 9 pitches
Chamine Stop
 6
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad, Sport 7 pitches
Via do Totem
 2
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad, Sport 8 pitches
Lagartao
 2
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad, Sport 8 pitches
As de Espadas
 3
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport 4 pitches
Coringa
 11
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport 3 pitches
Costao
 7
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Alfredo Marciel
 1
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport 4 pitches
Cavalo Louco
 6
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 6 pitches
Revolta dos Gravatás
 1
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 Trad 8 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Morro do Capacete, Nova Friburgo, Estado do Rio de Janeiro.
[Hide Photo] Morro do Capacete, Nova Friburgo, Estado do Rio de Janeiro.
Copacabana Beach from Pao de Acucar, late 1988 or early 1989.
[Hide Photo] Copacabana Beach from Pao de Acucar, late 1988 or early 1989.
A view of the Urca and Pao de Acucar as seen from Babilonia.
[Hide Photo] A view of the Urca and Pao de Acucar as seen from Babilonia.
Rio de Janeiro visto da via K2, debaixo do Cristo Redentor, Rio de Janeiro.
[Hide Photo] Rio de Janeiro visto da via K2, debaixo do Cristo Redentor, Rio de Janeiro.
Escalada do Curso Básico de Montanhismo no Pão de Açucar, Rio de Janeiro.
[Hide Photo] Escalada do Curso Básico de Montanhismo no Pão de Açucar, Rio de Janeiro.
Pedra Hime, Jacarepaguá, Rio de Janeiro.
[Hide Photo] Pedra Hime, Jacarepaguá, Rio de Janeiro.
Pico Maior de Salinas visto do cume do Capacete. Município de Nova Friburgo, estado do Rio de Janeiro.
[Hide Photo] Pico Maior de Salinas visto do cume do Capacete. Município de Nova Friburgo, estado do Rio de Janeiro.
Place in southern Brazil called Pedra do Bau.  We did a sketchy via ferrata to the top.  Late 1988.
[Hide Photo] Place in southern Brazil called Pedra do Bau. We did a sketchy via ferrata to the top. Late 1988.
Rio De Janeiro, late 1988 or early 1989.
[Hide Photo] Rio De Janeiro, late 1988 or early 1989.
Pao de Acucar, or Suglarloaf, late 1988 or early 1989.  Sting was up on top.  Yeah that Sting.  Amazing city.
[Hide Photo] Pao de Acucar, or Suglarloaf, late 1988 or early 1989. Sting was up on top. Yeah that Sting. Amazing city.
West face of the Pao de Acucar
[Hide Photo] West face of the Pao de Acucar