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Routes in Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf)

Alfredo Marciel S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
As de Espadas S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cavalo Louco T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Chamine Stop T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Coringa S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Costao S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lagartao T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Revolta dos Gravatás T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Secundo Costa Neto T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Via do Totem T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Via dos Italianos S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Waldemar Guimaraes (Waldo) T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 900 ft, 6 pitches
FA: NA
Page Views: 1,134 total, 9/month
Shared By: Christian on Nov 28, 2007
Admins: Tony Yeary, Raiden

You & This Route


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Description

6 pitches. 1st pitch has a short crack at the beginning, then diagonal right to the belay just up and left from the Italianos belay.

Then pitches 2-5 trend left with some face climbing and VERY delicate slabby traverses. All these pitches are bolted but with some fairly long runouts between bolts by modern standards. Take long slings to keep down rope drag even on the bolted pitches. You could probably place some smaller pieces to ease the runouts on a few sections.

At the top of pitch 5 on big ledgy area move belay slight up and about 40 feet right to the bottom of a short right facing corner. This corner ends at the downhill part of the man-made structures on the top.

Some of the belays on this route are off one bolt. The protection and belay bolts are all the so-called "grampo P" , 1/2" with a U shaped hanger soldered on. So you can rap off midpitch without leaving a biner if necessary.

Location

The start is at a crack a few feet left of the start of the famous Italianos route.

Protection

First part of the first pitch takes 2 or 3 pieces of gear, .5 to 2".

Extendable trad slings are necessary to keep down rope drag. I believe the guide used 36" slings fully extended but slighty shorter or longer would probably work.

Photos

Christian
Casa do Cacete
 
Christian   Casa do Cacete
 
If anyone notices discrepancies, please post in English or Portuguese and I'll fix the route description, as I'm working from memory on a climb I followed a guide up almost 2 years ago.

BTW, guiding rates are very reasonable in Brazil. A google search for "climb in Rio" should bring up lots. I used aribira.com.br Nov 28, 2007