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Waldemar Guimaraes (Waldo)
5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British PG13
Avg: 3.7 from 3
votes
Routes in Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf)
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Alfredo Marciel S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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As de Espadas S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Cavalo Louco T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Chamine Stop T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Coringa S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Costao S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Lagartao T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Revolta dos Gravatás T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Secundo Costa Neto T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Via do Totem T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Via dos Italianos S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Waldemar Guimaraes (Waldo) T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, Sport, 1000 ft (303 m), 10 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Waldemar Guimaraes |
| Page Views: | 1,788 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Matt Othmer on Apr 7, 2012 · Updates |
| Admins: | Roberta Zouain, Matt Looby |
Description
This route is on the north face of the Pao de Acucar. It was established in the 80s by some of the best climbers of the time. It is a mix of face, crack, and chimney climbing, and is absolutely beautiful. Very characteristic of Rio,and of the Pao de Acucar.
It is a long route, but can be done in a few hours if you are climbing well. Due to the wandering nature of the route it is best to have a topo.
P1: find a small clearing just uphill on the right of the approach trail about a minute down trail from Segundos. Two bolts are visible near a nice looking finger crack leading to a roof with a sapling just underneath. You can get some small cams here to supplement the bolts, as well as for the rest of the pitch. Pull the roof, then continue up a sweet hand crack past 6 more bolts trending left. The crack runs out and some face climbing takes you to an arete and a classic Rio single bolt belay, pick which bolt. One of them is next to a hollow sounding flake one could use to back up the bolt (for whatever it's worth). 5.9
P2: Looking up, you can see a nice looking vertical crack that doglegs right into a mostly horizontal crack. Climb straight up just right of the arete, then trend right to reach the crack. It takes hand sized gear to supplement the bolts, and can be wet a couple days after rain. Reach a vegetated ramp that leads to the base of the P3 chimney and a two bolt belay (a P bolt and a shiny expansion bolt) 5.9
P3: Climb the chimney past three bolts (the third is on the outside of the chimney, not on the face, keep a lookout! A 4 can be useful here as well), then up more crack and face to a two bolt belay. 5.7
P4-10: ???
P4 Por Favor Não Grampeie (Please Don't Bolt This) variation: From the top of P3, take the crack up and right to a two bolt anchor on Segundo. Protected with .75 to 3, pretty short pitch. 5.8. From here you can rappel Segundos with a 70m rope (could possibly be done with a 60 but might be tight), or continue up Segundos and skip the heinous lower chimney pitches of the route.
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