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Routes in Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf)

Alfredo Marciel S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
As de Espadas S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cavalo Louco T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Chamine Stop T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Coringa S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Costao S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lagartao T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Revolta dos Gravatás T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Secundo Costa Neto T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Via do Totem T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Via dos Italianos S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Waldemar Guimaraes (Waldo) T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, 1000 ft, 10 pitches, Grade III
FA: Waldemar Guimaraes
Page Views: 842 total, 12/month
Shared By: Matt Othmer on Apr 7, 2012
Admins: Tony Yeary, Raiden

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Description

This route is on the north face of the Pao de Acucar. It was established in the 80s by some of the best climbers of the time. It is a mix of face, crack, and chimney climbing, and is absolutely beautiful. Very characteristic of Rio,and of the Pao de Acucar.

It is a long route, but can be done in a few hours if you are climbing well. Due to the wandering nature of the route it is best to have a topo.

Location

North face of Pao de Acucar. After making your way through the forest look for a couple of bolts leading to a hand crack and then a huge face above.

Protection

Bring 16 draws including many 24 inch slings. You can also bring a couple of .5- 2 inch pieces to fill in some of the gaps between bolts.

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