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Routes in Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf)

Alfredo Marciel S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
As de Espadas S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cavalo Louco T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Chamine Stop T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Coringa S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Costao S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lagartao T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Revolta dos Gravatás T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Secundo Costa Neto T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Via do Totem T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Via dos Italianos S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Waldemar Guimaraes (Waldo) T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
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Type: Trad, Sport, 750 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: Rolf Vegelle, Silvio Mendes, Guido Vegelle, 1944
Page Views: 1,288 total · 16/month
Shared By: Matt Othmer on Apr 7, 2012
Admins: Tony Yeary, Raiden

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This route is an absolute must-do if you are in the area for a while. A 700 foot tall chimney with one or two pieces of pro per pitch--- what could be better than that! This is not a route for those not adept at chimney climbing. But for those who do like chimneys, this is a GREAT adventure, and a classic of the area.


This is the chimney that runs up the left side of the Totem formation on the south face of Pao de Acucar. Access the base of the route via a climbers trail that leaves the paved path at the 1.15 km mark.


5 or 6 long runners, anchor material.


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Ed. Ducha  
Just one more information: this route was first ascented in one afternoon and they only placed two fixed protections. all the other bolts were added by other climbers. Jun 6, 2014
This route is an experience. Bring an extra shirt so that when you're sitting at the snack bar on top, sipping a cocktail, you don't look like you just tunneled out of jail. Dec 9, 2015

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